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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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Discussion Starter #1
Was wondering how you guys do this? Also wondering if losing 10 lbs. really does equal 1 hp. effective gain.
 

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When I lived in the midwest, the best places to weigh a race car if you didn't have access to a set of motorsports scales was a farm feed store. It's the whole car weight, not individual corner weights, but usually feed store scales are rather accurate because you're paying by the pound. Truck stop scales are usually not as accurate as they are concerned about thousands of pounds at a time.


I have a set of Intercomp wireless scales, and just weighed my car which was 100% stock, touring pack with soft top and 3/4 tank of fuel. It was 1958 lbs with a 61.8% rear bias and 50.2% cross. I thought this was pretty light compared to other weights I've heard, but these scales were just calibrated so that should be a good number.
 

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Most good tire/alignment shops that occasionally deal with competitive race cars will have as set of scales. Typically if you have them do an alignment you could ask them to weigh the car on the scales as well.

And the 1hp per 10lb thing is a really crappy rule of thumb. Horsepower under the curve per weight is what accelerates a car. Removing weight not only makes the car accelerate better but also brake, transition in turns, etc. better.
 

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Some truck stops I've been to never even registered the car at all. They're rated too high, as already stated.
Try recycling centers/landfills. Their scales deal more with pedestrian vehicles rather than high tonnage industrial vehicles.
 

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Truck stop/weight scale though most of that are only accurate +-10 or 20 lbs. Fine if you are sitting at 80,000lbs, not so fine at 2000lbs.
They don't care you aren't a big rig, pay the $8 and they would weigh your mother in law.
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
dang - 1929 lbs.? You've been on a diet...:)
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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Discussion Starter #8
Most good tire/alignment shops that occasionally deal with competitive race cars will have as set of scales. Typically if you have them do an alignment you could ask them to weigh the car on the scales as well.

And the 1hp per 10lb thing is a really crappy rule of thumb. Horsepower under the curve per weight is what accelerates a car. Removing weight not only makes the car accelerate better but also brake, transition in turns, etc. better.
Wow - good reason for a street car to lose weight then. Better braking, handing etc. I was always thinking of it as -lose weight to make it faster, for a track car, etc.
 

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Weight your self.

Pick up your car in your hands. Get back on scale. Subtract weight of your person from that number.

There's your weight.

:)
 

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hmmm, i would like to weigh mine as well... my ultimate goal is to get my Elise under 1900 (assuming its over as of right now)

ive already shed about 20+ or so lbs with the rear panel/new exhaust (& the staggered rpf1's weigh about 24 lbs less than stock rims)

my Elise has easily cut over 40 lbs since rolling off the factory floor
 

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gravel rock mulch stores that sell in bulk have scales

Also paper mills or even the local incenerator has a scale to drive on....
 

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I came in at 1955 on intercomps. I have the spread sheet somewhere with corners and f/r bias
 

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shay2nak
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easiest and free I'd say is truck stop or recycling center (i believe).

I've weighed my car on truck scale when it was new with almost full tank and was 2060.
 

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Some day, when my driving gets really good, the car is going to have to gain about 200 pounds. SSM class has a minimum weight formula. My car is too skinny right now (and the driver weight is not included).
 

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hmmm, i would like to weigh mine as well... my ultimate goal is to get my Elise under 1900 (assuming its over as of right now)

ive already shed about 20+ or so lbs with the rear panel/new exhaust (& the staggered rpf1's weigh about 24 lbs less than stock rims)

my Elise has easily cut over 40 lbs since rolling off the factory floor
got my car weighed while getting an alignment at a local race shop

1904 lbs total (on nearly a full tank)

50.1/49.9 cross balance ratio

FR:373 FL:374
RR:580 RL:577

now i have to figure out how to shed 5 more pounds to get under 1900 (outside of less fuel)... looks like the AC is coming out once i upgrade the radiator
 

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If you're in Taiwan and want a 'quick weighing', just go to the local recycling joint and just stop in front of their 'office' on the full length scale and drive off!
 

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I have yet to use the AC in my car.

I have never used AC in any car I've owned, probably stemming from the time growing up in the midwest in sweltering heat summers driving an 80's toyota with no AC. I'm just used to it, and with the top off on a good day it's never that bad.


I really, really want to get rid of it for the weight reasons, but not sure if I'm willing to alienate any future buyers if I ever decide to sell.
 

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I really, really want to get rid of it for the weight reasons, but not sure if I'm willing to alienate any future buyers if I ever decide to sell.
nothing a small adjustment in price wont take care of... especially if you sell to another enthusiast from this community who may appreciate the car more for what it offers overall.

ill remove mine & never think twice about how it might effect resale (if a potential buyer long down the road doesn't want my Elise because it has no AC than maybe an Elise isn't for them)...

IMO this car should have never some with AC to begin with :D
 
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