[JLSELISE]

Hmm--bottom end failures are often associated with oil starvation not fuel starvation, which usually leads to head (valve) or piston failures due to lean running condition.

 

[Iman]

You should get one of Brent's fuel cells.

 

[turbophil]

Get CW oil pump, mahle forged pistons-- you can machine them to 11.5:1 to work with CX's tune... upgrade head with usual stuff (springs, valves)--> this can be easily purchased from MWR for instance... Add Moroso pan.... use stock toyota short block with those pistons mentioned earlier... with a good oil pump and pan, the low end is pretty tough. The top end and head are the weak links... fix those and you're good for reliability... If you want power, well the sky is the limit--- sorta

Best,

Phil

 

[Demonized]

If you want power, well the sky is the limit--- sorta

Power goes as high as your wallet goes deep :x

 

[plastique999]

I had bottom end failure, but due to oil starvation.

I replaced with an OEM short block, but did replace oil pump, and valve springs...otherwise left top end alone.
At the same time I added Moroso oil pan and Accusump (which you have).
Also replaced with ACT heavy duty clutch.

This was all on top of a BWR S/C....I track quite a bit, and so far no issues.

 

[VisualEchos]

Things like this just make me shake my head. Sorry to hear it dude.

 

[[email protected] Sector111]

Ecotec?

 

[Shawn C]

Just did mine with a new short block and Mahle's, Pump gears, Moroso pan, and all the little extras. I am running a charlie tune for the 06' and it runs fine, although I am a bit down on power now without the proper tune.

 

[dickedup]

Big question for you mister!

Thanks to fuel starvation (sometimes, Lotus engineering makes me want to bash something), I blew the bottom end of my motor at the track last week.

I am going back and forth on simply purchasing an OEM bottom end and stopping there (after adding TurboPhil's surge tank), or going more extreme.

I am looking for advice on what has (or has not worked) for owners when upgrading engine internals. I am not looking for speculation on what I could do - I am generally aware of the upgrades that exist for this motor.

My Exige is track only (100% track, 0% street). My only engine power upgrade has been the Gotham power increase. I also have an accusump.

What do you think?

Do you have that highly recommended extended warranty? They'll replace the entire lump. Thing runs ~ $20,000 or so is what the service departments say.

Only around $1000 or so if memory serves.


:up:

 

[dstevens]

Or you could just replace the drivetrain with a cheaper, more powerful, lighter and more robust setup.

 

[mx1]

can you provide more info on the warranty? Does it really cover raced cars? Tks.

 

[Demonized]

can you provide more info on the warranty? Does it really cover raced cars? Tks.

Depends on how they like your ECU read out, I'd imagine.

 

[robains]

Deddie,

Welcome to the club. The stock 11.5 pistons maybe fine if you aren't running too much boost. Fuel delivery solution should be your #1 priority -- Phil's solution is the cheapest around ($600) and well designed. If you want to go with a fuel cell you might want to contact Brent ($2000+ solution) or you can do the Lotus fuel solution ($4000+) -- sounds like you have the oil issues resolved already.

I was able to get a new short block for $1300 -- just watch out for FedEx dropping it. You should be able to get a stock new head for around $550. Valves are a MUST upgrade, Toyota say 7800 rpm is the max, Lotus say 8500 -- so believe what Yamaha say 7800

I have Mahle 9:1 pistons in now (on Engine #3) and Phil's fuel starve solution and I've also added SuperTech valves (hardened) and Eibach valve springs (engine #2 dropped a valve). I've yet to track this setup so I can't confirm it's good to go or not -- but it "should be".

I understand your disappointment in the motor -- it's definitely the most fragile motor I've ever taken to the track and requires considerable time/money investment to make it track worthy. Ironic, considering the "track" nature of this car, but does explain the very "limited" warranty.

Sorry again, Rob.

 

[choi0706]

Hmm--bottom end failures are often associated with oil starvation not fuel starvation, which usually leads to head (valve) or piston failures due to lean running condition.

it happens, quite often too..
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f160/fuel-starvation-supercharger-turbo-boom-69134/

bet his piston looks like that..

turn left, blow a piston.. turn right, starve oil.. go straight,????


geezzzz...

 

[choi0706]

if you have the cash, and looking for serious power the honda can't be beat.. honda 2.4L vs toyota 1.8L .. the biggest benefit is the HUUUUUUGGGGE aftermarket support on the honda motors AND gearboxes..

if you want to stick with the toyota lump..
circuitworks oil pump
brand new OEM oil pump housing
since your block is going to be toast, brand new toyota shortblock assembled
if you're looking at around 300hp get the mahles
uprated valves and springs
there will be bits of metal floating around, so get a new oil pickup tube
OEM gasket kit
your head will be toast as well, if your spark plugs are missing the straps, its toast and probably same with the supercharger (rebuildable) and cat.. so you will need to change those out as well..

there is also quite a bit as you tear the motor down, you might want to change out..

you are looking at around 5k of parts..

 

[choi0706]

Deddie,



I was able to get a new short block for $1300 -- just watch out for FedEx dropping it..

where? the pricing has gone up recently.. cheapest Ive found was 1500 ish..

 

[Brennon]

where? the pricing has gone up recently.. cheapest Ive found was 1500 ish..

DiscountToyotaParts

 

[MaineLotus]

I'd suggest going with a built engine similiar to those that have been done before. There are several threads on rebuilds that will help. Unless you have deep pockets, time and patience, avoid the suggestions of an engine swap.

 

[robains]

Yeah, it seems that several people/teams that race these cars dump the Yamaha for a Honda and stay normally aspirated. But you'll never be able to smog the car with a Honda motor unless you keep a spare stock 2ZZ and all that goes with it and do engine swap at 4-2-2-2....

<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=3798782&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1&group_id=" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=3798782&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1&group_id=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/groups/9495/videos/3798782">ProdSports 2009 Round 1 Race3</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1468843">Prancing Wombat</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

Honda power thanks to the Prancing Wombat - Aussies have all the fun.

But "I think" (read I haven't successfully had more than one track day without blowing up a motor) the minimum to make the 2ZZ track worthy is:

Fuel delivery solution
Moroso Oil Pan
SuperTech valves (hardened)

This is still a lot less expensive than doing a Honda swap. But you might wanna contact Jack or the LCS guys/gals and see what seems to be holding together on regular track duty - I don't think they run NorCal tracks so their experience will not be exactly the same, but they should be able to give you good durability info.

Rob