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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone else think using red loctite on the stud conversion is a little odd?
Studs break (especially at the track, which is probably why you are doing the conversion in the fist place)
and since red loctite is a pain to break free, wrestling with the stub of a red loctited broken stud is NOT something I would want to wrestle with in the paddock. (or even my garage for that matter)

Seems like blue loctite is a better application for this.
Safe and effective?

thoughts?
 

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Red Loctite is not indestructable! ?

Red Loctite is usually specified for larger diameter fasteners, higher temperature, and more permanent applications where you won't need to remove it very often.

Blue is for small diameter bolts, low temps and easily removed cases.

USE RED on brake caliper bolts, suspension bolts, and your lug bolts where you definitely don't want them to fall out, and you probably won't be removing them next week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Red Loctite is not indestructable! ?

Red Loctite is usually specified for larger diameter fasteners, higher temperature, and more permanent applications where you won't need to remove it very often.

Blue is for small diameter bolts, low temps and easily removed cases.

USE RED on brake caliper bolts, suspension bolts, and your lug bolts where you definitely don't want them to fall out, and you probably won't be removing them next week.
Sorry but that is not the application for red loctite.
Straight from Loctite:
Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 from Loctite Adhesives

"Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners"


blue loctite:
Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 from Loctite Adhesives

". It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration."
"Recommended For
Use on metal fasteners 1/4' (6 mm) to 3/4' (19 mm) in diameter"

studs are well shy of 19mm......
seems to me like its the better application


ps: brake calilper bolts and suspension bolts?! :huh: remind me never to help you wrench on your car!
 

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I think honestly you need neither.....once you torque down lugs they will not back out....i used to lock title them until I started racing more and replacing them. In the BMW world, lots of folks do not loctite the wheel studs.....
Btw you can buy the ones from bimmerworld and get 4 extra.
 

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What about green Loctite?
 

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Try JB weld.................
 

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Green is used for extreme high strength purposes! Used in industrial application for permanent use. However there are solvents that help remove the different colors.
I used Green to set the rear wheel bearings in the Europa. It's more of a filler than anything else, at least in that application.

Back on-topic; I'll be putting in my BWR studs soon, and I will use what they give me.

Red LocTite seems to release just fine with a little propane heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Im a little surprised there isnt more critical thinking and/or engineer types here. "Thats what every body does / use what they give me / not a momentus decision" isnt how I think of things that keep my car on the road at 130mph, but to each his own.

I think the loctite is just to make sure the stud doesn't spin out when you're trying to remove the nut. I'd try blue, and if they come out on your next wheel removal, well then you know.
I think honestly you need neither.....once you torque down lugs they will not back out....i used to lock title them until I started racing more and replacing them. In the BMW world, lots of folks do not loctite the wheel studs.....
Btw you can buy the ones from bimmerworld and get 4 extra.
After thinking about it some more, thats the conclusion Ive come to as well. The torque on the lugs is what should stretch that bolt (though not in the normal/intended way) and keep it attached.
If I have to rely on red glue to keep my wheels attached.....thats bad bad news.

it is a shame there arent studs conversions available that do it like cars that come that way, by threading them in through the back.
 

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it is a shame there arent studs conversions available that do it like cars that come that way, by threading them in through the back.
I think that most cars that came that way had them PRESSED in through the back. Take a look at the replacement studs for such cars; they have straight knurling near the cap.
 
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