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Discussion Starter #1
Is a BOE Brake Duct kit still or something similar still available? Thanks.
 

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Saffron Yellow is Lighter
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google search for "lotus brake duct" ? I think the only part that ends up being remotely bespoke is the intake mold placed in the clam, which you can get from reverie and pilbeam. The rest is some ducting that you could find instructions from reverie for. The hardest part is deciding how to attach the ducting to the upright.

alternatively I bet BOE would make you one if you called them. They seem to be willing to do one off work.
 

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I'm a little curious what the issue is your trying to solve. Are you overheating your brakes? If so, what setup are you running and what power levels are you at?

I second a call to BOE, guessing they are busy as normal and it might take a few calls.
 

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JasonB did try to ask BOE via their original thread where they advertised them for sale.


I know it was an old thread he posted in, but his question certainly was relevant to the original post and was even directed to the OP (turbophil) who is still a very active member.

So, not sure why that thread was shut down on him. But, I'll probably be flagged now for drifting off topic since I can't provide any brake duct info......:oops:

JasonB, good luck getting the info!
 

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JasonB did try to ask BOE via their original thread where they advertised them for sale.


I know it was an old thread he posted in, but his question certainly was relevant to the original post and was even directed to the OP (turbophil) who is still a very active member.

So, not sure why that thread was shut down on him. But, I'll probably be flagged now for drifting off topic since I can't provide any brake duct info......:oops:

JasonB, good luck getting the info!
The thread was a decade old. That said, the mention still goes to the intended recipient, who can contact the OP. A quick look at BOE's site shows no brake ducts for the Elise.

People lately have been bumping 10-13 year-old threads lately, so I'm trying to close old threads where appropriate.

San
 

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People lately have been bumping 10-13 year-old threads lately
San, I bumped it without noticing the date. It seems like some old threads have been appearing under the New menu or at the top of different forums ever since the new site was released. I still feel it does not show active threads as easily.
 

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People lately have been bumping 10-13 year-old threads lately
San
Where is the Edit? Making a 2nd post to edit.

I just noticed this on the Whats New page, 1/2 way down displays old threads after this text:
Threads below have not been updated since your last visit.
I am sure folks assume those are new. I went looking and never noticed the threads on the last half of the Whats New page are not new. Very misleading...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Off topic, but why close old threads? Is the forum supposed to be a wiki or a chatroom? People get upset when you dont "use the search bar" but then also upset when you post on old threads. This is why forums are dying to Facebook, you can ask a simple question and get answers without people telling you how you are asking wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm a little curious what the issue is your trying to solve. Are you overheating your brakes? If so, what setup are you running and what power levels are you at?

I second a call to BOE, guessing they are busy as normal and it might take a few calls.
Yes overheating brakes. Getting mushy pedal on track sessions. Stock brakes on 05 Elise. OEM supercharger so not too much more power. Have decent pads GLOCK 7 and 8 or something like that. Yes I am probably over-braking the car a little bit but I would like a setup that is able to handle a little bit of noob driving. Track days cost a lot of time and money and once the brakes fade its not longer fun. I would rather have something a little idiot proof. Open to other recommendations though.
 

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Yes overheating brakes. Getting mushy pedal on track sessions. Stock brakes on 05 Elise. OEM supercharger so not too much more power. Have decent pads GLOCK 7 and 8 or something like that. Yes I am probably over-braking the car a little bit but I would like a setup that is able to handle a little bit of noob driving. Track days cost a lot of time and money and once the brakes fade its not longer fun. I would rather have something a little idiot proof. Open to other recommendations though.
What are you running for brake fluid and how often do you change and bleed the fluid?

Later,
Eldon
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What are you running for brake fluid and how often do you change and bleed the fluid?

Later,
Eldon
Castrol SRF and had it changed right before the track day the second time. The first time it was about 4 months old and not 100% sure it was SRF.
 

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The stock setup with that brake fluid should work fine unless you are really dragging the brakes, even then it shouldn’t fade that quickly. Do the brakes work for the first few laps or is the pedal soft from the beginning? If they start out fine how long until they fade/boil? Brake pad thickness? Do you have an instructor riding with you?
 

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Install AP racing big brake kit on front and rear axles. You will never have a brake fade problem again.
1257200
 

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lots of the possible "fixes" are expensive here. The only ones we typically see complaining about boiling fluid around here are those with a lot more HP than stock or some sort of mods (slicks, etc). Do you have BOE's SS brake pistons? Video of you at the track? Did you properly bed in those GLOC pads with rotors that hadn't been used with other pads before? Do you use any other pad? Have you tried to measure the temps of the calipers in any way (even with an infrared gun)?

I think 8's up front is probably not enough. Last time I checked they recommended 10's or 12's.
 

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I think 8's up front is probably not enough. Last time I checked they recommended 10's or 12's.
I am not familiar with these pads but the OP could be reaching a temp they fall off at. Answering some of the many questions already asked might help find a solution, I’m guessing cooling ducts are not the correct fix just yet.
 

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You should not need ducting. I run all day without any brake fade in 90+ degree temps with the following setup.

Stock rotors
Stock calipers
Stock flex lines (yes I should upgrade)
Castrol DOT4 synthetic (used to be called GTLMA)
BOE SS scalloped/knife edged front pistons
CL RC5+ pads front and rear
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for all the replies guys. I will answer some questions.

The car has re-71r tires.

The pedal starts out firm after the bleed. After a few laps in a row of pushing hard the pedal starts to travel further and I am having to push it more to get the car stopped. At this point strange stuff starts happening such as I am applying brake pedal and the car seems to skate along. I can only assume this is the ABS kicking in or "ice mode".

I am not a great driver by any means, but have 10+ track days under my belt and do sim racing here and there. Fastest time around Laguna Seca in the Elise is 1:48, average time is 1:50. It is possible I am way over-braking the car. I can seek some instruction next time out.

I just had the vented caliper pistons and stainless steel lines installed so we will see if that helps. If not, I'm going for ducts or the BOE super solution (AP Radical up front, fronts to the rear, and the bias cage)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also, coming from a WRX with some AP racing brakes up front, I will tell you that the WRX would stop about twice as fast as my Elise. With threshold / panic braking the car just doesn't stop that fast.
 

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For the fun, I did a small prototype of brake duct. I do not big issue with my brake, but I am limit sometimes for oil boiling with Motul 660.

I did the proto with a cheap printer 3D, using flex hose 2 inches. Maybe too low, I don't know yet... will try maybe when the track season will restart up here.
 

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