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I did not see what is your power level. If you have moderate power, less than 300, stock brake should be able to do the job with very good pads, or track pads, no duct, and very good brake fluid.

Or installing heavier disc to be able to run cooler... The advantage of big brake is to be able to run cooler and be able to run more friendly pads. Do you want to add extra wekght to your car? For CL pads, I stopped to use them since it looks like they do not insulated enough the disc heat to piston. I still use the original aluminum piston which is not ideal for sure. I found that the Hawk DTC60 give extra insulation. But they are really specific race pads, with no braking when cold.
 

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Thanks for all the replies guys. I will answer some questions.

The car has re-71r tires.

The pedal starts out firm after the bleed. After a few laps in a row of pushing hard the pedal starts to travel further and I am having to push it more to get the car stopped. At this point strange stuff starts happening such as I am applying brake pedal and the car seems to skate along. I can only assume this is the ABS kicking in or "ice mode".

I am not a great driver by any means, but have 10+ track days under my belt and do sim racing here and there. Fastest time around Laguna Seca in the Elise is 1:48, average time is 1:50. It is possible I am way over-braking the car. I can seek some instruction next time out.

I just had the vented caliper pistons and stainless steel lines installed so we will see if that helps. If not, I'm going for ducts or the BOE super solution (AP Radical up front, fronts to the rear, and the bias cage)
If you think that you are getting in to the "Ice Mode" of the ABS, you can tell this by ever so slightly releasing some brake pressure then reapplying the brakes. When you go in to Ice Mode, the pedal stays hard and doesn't move. The car does not slow down any faster no matter how hard you push on the pedal. I believe there is a way to disable the ABS by disconnecting the RF ABS sensor. Check the forums for this to see if I'm correct. One thing you have to remember is that these cars are a momentum car. You could also get an IR temperature gun and check the temps of the brake components after you come off the track. IR does not work well on shiny surfaces but you will get idea of the temperature.

Later,
Eldon
 

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Use less brakes, they only slow you down~

Kidding aside, if you had boiled the fluid, your pedal would sink down alarmingly.
So yours, it sounds like the pads are overheating or glazed already.
I'd go up a temperature range. G-Loc R10 or even 12. You can find higher temp fluid, too, like RBF660,

Mind you, when I had XP12s on, I was able to lock up my brakes up on-demand or if I sneezed hard enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Use less brakes, they only slow you down~

Kidding aside, if you had boiled the fluid, your pedal would sink down alarmingly.
So yours, it sounds like the pads are overheating or glazed already.
I'd go up a temperature range. G-Loc R10 or even 12. You can find higher temp fluid, too, like RBF660,

Mind you, when I had XP12s on, I was able to lock up my brakes up on-demand or if I sneezed hard enough.
Is RBF660 higher temp than the SRF?

The cost of the high temp brake fluid is very high. What is the harm of adding ducts? I think they would pay for themselves if I could run lower temp fluid.
 

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Is RBF660 higher temp than the SRF?

The cost of the high temp brake fluid is very high. What is the harm of adding ducts? I think they would pay for themselves if I could run lower temp fluid.
No.

I would continue to use the SRF as it is less hygroscopic.

San
 

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Is RBF660 higher temp than the SRF?

The cost of the high temp brake fluid is very high. What is the harm of adding ducts? I think they would pay for themselves if I could run lower temp fluid.
I think the SRF should be just fine, I use the RBF660 and don't have issues with that though.

I agree that you might be running into an issue with your pads and stepping those up might make a difference. There is no harm in adding ducts but there are a lot of us that do not have issues with the brakes overheating so this doesn't seem to be a solution to the real issue. If you find an off the shelf solution or enjoy making your own then go for it. Most of the brake parts I'd be trying to swap out (pads, rotors, fluid, hoses, etc.) are wear items so you'll need to replace them at some point anyway.
 
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