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Discussion Starter #1
I just got finished installing the BOE brake cage and took it for the first test drive. I wanted to add a little more detail to the product because I think it is a lot cooler then they have made it out to be.

First is what you get: A really well made brake cage, with ports for brake pressure data, and well made brake hoses that fit well into the existing fittings.



There are a good enough set of install instructions you get with it, but I had a few things to add to them after installing it in a car with HVAC and as stock as possible, on a stock car you need to slightly relocate the filter drier on the AC and cut the plastic shroud on the Exige for the end of the masters and hoses to have clearance. Then you can cut a small hole in the plastic on the passenger side of the firewall for the balance knob connector (you can see this in one of the pics below).

The feel of the brakes is COMPLETELY different, you have MAX 1" of travel on the pedal and the braking is all done by pressure not movement, and best of all you can really trail off the brakes nicely, I think this will be worth a ton of time. I will update this with more once I have tracked the car.

Some install tips:
-Get the bolts on the pedal rod loosened before you install it then get the rod close to the right lenth before you tighter everything up incase you cant reach one of the nuts.
-I thought it was easiest to install the hoses from the brake lines back to the master, but YMMV

Below are some pics of the install and finished product.

Sorry the car is so dirty, it has 80k hard miles on it. Track, winter, crossed the ocean 2x, daily driver etc.

Shroud cut out to allow the hoses clearance:


Before putting the shroud on:


Where I ran the bias bar and brake sensors through the firewall. I then filled the gap with silicone.


Where I mounted the brake lines to the firewall. Also the really nice sensor mounts and the ports to "bench bleed" the masters once installed. Make sure you use these vs bleeding the whole thing at once.
 
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Do you have one installed? Pilbeam Racing is kinda flaky. I have sent email questions about there products and get no response.

Ed
 
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Yes...and have seen several others installed too. But this new one they've got looks much better. Order the kit and you'll get all of his undivided attention. I think he just doesn't want to waist time with "tire kickers"...
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
1. Almost $1k more
2. Guy that answers my calls and texts
3. Easier install because kit includes all the hoses etc.
4. Maybe I'm not good enough to notice but it's still plenty stiff.
 
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1. Almost $1k more
2. Guy that answers my calls and texts
3. Easier install because kit includes all the hoses etc.
4. Maybe I'm not good enough to notice but it's still plenty stiff.
Arrogant companies who don't want to "waist" time talking to potential customers lose my business every time.

Glen
Performance is first on my list...everything else is a long way away in 2nd and further. I guess everybody has his priorities.
 

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Thanks Kevin

We have several racers that claims our brake cage is the best mod they've ever made to their cars. I agree that it id really good.

As you get into it. Youlll find the front/rear pressure traces are repeatable, illustrating how rigid the box is.

I had the pilbeam part on the desk before we built the cage. Decided against installing it in my car for a variety of reasons. It's not a terrible part, but the tiny bias bar, the installation effort, and general play in the system didn't get me excited. I have seen some data from the pilbeam setup and it's ok... ours is better though.

For a complete and total in-cab adjustable manual brake conversion, this is the easiest path there and the performance is as good or better than any manual setup I've seen...

If interested, we have mounting plates for the adjuster that go in place of the radio for fed cars. On the Euro dash cup cars, we have a mounting boss that goes in place of an air vent...

I'll post a couple pics....

Cheers,

Phil
 

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Here are a couple....
 

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Thanks Kevin

We have several racers that claims our brake cage is the best mod they've ever made to their cars. I agree that it id really good.

As you get into it. Youlll find the front/rear pressure traces are repeatable, illustrating how rigid the box is.

I had the pilbeam part on the desk before we built the cage. Decided against installing it in my car for a variety of reasons. It's not a terrible part, but the tiny bias bar, the installation effort, and general play in the system didn't get me excited. I have seen some data from the pilbeam setup and it's ok... ours is better though.

For a complete and total in-cab adjustable manual brake conversion, this is the easiest path there and the performance is as good or better than any manual setup I've seen...

If interested, we have mounting plates for the adjuster that go in place of the radio for fed cars. On the Euro dash cup cars, we have a mounting boss that goes in place of an air vent...

I'll post a couple pics....

Cheers,

Phil
I don't get it, how is it possible that the most prevalent pedal boxes for Lotuses in Europe have "tiny bias bars" and yet be the winningest pedal boxes if they flex? How can the Pilbeam pedal box have more "general play" when there are no extra linkages?
 

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Are there photos without helium filled tires? ;-)
 

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mac and their upside down photos....

here are better pics of a couple installs...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Did you keep the ABS, or remove it? What's involved (either way)?

TIA, -Ed
Default is to remove it, I don't think you would want ABS still if you are considering this mod, but I think when I was ordering they might have mentioned it was possible? Have to ask Phil. Note that this is a serious "racecar" mod and I wouldn't suggest doing this if you are regularly needing ABS by driving in bad conditions etc. The pedal effort needed to stop at a stoplight is now quite high so it's only barely street-able.
 

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^ Trolling.
No doubt. JJ can't help himself and the mods can't seem to keep him banned.

Did you keep the ABS, or remove it? What's involved (either way)?

TIA, -Ed
AP- I can't speak for every installation, but the ones we have done here have all been with deleted ABS. It CAN BE DONE with ABS, but I don't think the Lotus ABS is the right setup. It has so many issues from the onset, and part of the point of a fully adjustable brake setup like this is that the ABS becomes second fiddle by comparison. My suggestion is to ditch the ABS. I don't mean to belittle a true motorsports ABS system that is completely tunable, but lets face it: The hardware is just the beginning with a Bosch MS ABS. Then you have to tune it... The cost in both time and dollars gets cubic.

Our brake cage is pretty sweet. Designed by us specifically for the Lotus, it's about as PNP as it gets. Remove brake booster and install this in its place. The plumbing is all done for you. You get to keep all the picky DBW throttle components, clutch, etc in place. For most, they will take the ABS computer off the manifold and fix it to a convenient place up front. On the cars we do, we leave it basically where it was, but sans the ABS manifold/motor/lines/etc.

From a hardware standpoint, it's way over engineered to be rigid. for a biasing system to work great, deflection has to be taken out of the equation. this is part of the issues the Pilbeam setup has in that all the critical components are fixed to sheet metal. It also uses a tiny biasing bearing. On the other hand, with a cage like this, the critical points that want to go every-which-way are contained within an extremely rigid "cage". The key pivot uses a huge bushing when compared to what comes from Porsche and other cage systems in motorsports.

We have these all over the globe now and are used here in the US in SCCA AX, NASA, and track days. It really is fun and empowering having the brakes act like they should.

One point worth noting, is that we tried the stock rear calipers once. Knowing it was far from ideal, it was good science. Long story short, the pressure traces are terrible with the stock rear sliders and we eventually failed the rear calipers as we were asking too much of them (heat killed them). You really need rear radial mounted calipers for good brake control and to allow you to transfer adequate biasing to the rear and keep the caliper alive...

We have a real nice real caliper bracket here:

https://www.boefab.com/collections/braking/products/rear-radial-caliper-mounts

Also, might check out these two tech posts here:
https://www.boefab.com/blogs/tech/stopping-a-lotus-on-a-dime-every-time

and here:

https://www.boefab.com/blogs/tech/stop-brake-pads

Hope that helps,

Phil
 

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Default is to remove it, I don't think you would want ABS still if you are considering this mod, but I think when I was ordering they might have mentioned it was possible? Have to ask Phil. Note that this is a serious "racecar" mod and I wouldn't suggest doing this if you are regularly needing ABS by driving in bad conditions etc. The pedal effort needed to stop at a stoplight is now quite high so it's only barely street-able.
Oh come on! Sounds like you just need to work out a bit! :D

Serious note, on the track, you'll really appreciate the leg feedback.

As for the street, the main issue is sitting in traffic. the booster is something like a 3:1 unit. So with just minimal leg effort you're not going to roll back or forward on a steep hill, etc... With this, you're going to need 3X normal leg strength to keep from rolling when stopped. No big deal on reasonably flat areas... There's a reason OE street legal cars are boosted though...

Part of the beauty is that you can change the leg effort with MC swaps... that said, I would not recommend it until you've have ample time to determine you may want to change it. We came to the MC sizes on purpose:up:
 

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Hi Phil
Thanks for the info.... and reminded me I need to ask you about ...

Recall I asked you about running the Radical CP9444 calipers on the EP GT uprights , but you advised not really possible due to 130mm Radial mounting positions on the EP Upright. I had a look at machining the uprights but Geary at EP advised against it .
Wondering if it would be possible to run CP 5040 [ Radial Mount 130mm ctrs / to suit EP Uprights ] front and rear using your 288mm disks and Brake cage .

Note: CP9444 have 2 x 34.9 & 2 x 41.3mm pistons against the CP5040 at 4 x 38.1 mm pistons .

details on both here.
https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/brake_calipers/pro_5000_r_range/4_piston-cp9444-2/3/4/5s0l-front-45.9cm%C2%B2_piston_area-suits_13_wheel.aspx

https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/brake_calipers/pro_5000_range/4_piston_caliper_families/cp5040-10/-11/-12/-13-130mm_centres.aspx

Also I am running the Bosch M4 ABS , what mods need to be done to the cage to make it work ... if any .
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Oh come on! Sounds like you just need to work out a bit! :D

Serious note, on the track, you'll really appreciate the leg feedback.

As for the street, the main issue is sitting in traffic. the booster is something like a 3:1 unit. So with just minimal leg effort you're not going to roll back or forward on a steep hill, etc... With this, you're going to need 3X normal leg strength to keep from rolling when stopped. No big deal on reasonably flat areas... There's a reason OE street legal cars are boosted though...

Part of the beauty is that you can change the leg effort with MC swaps... that said, I would not recommend it until you've have ample time to determine you may want to change it. We came to the MC sizes on purpose:up:
Don't get me wrong, I think it's going to be right for the track for sure, some stops from ~80 ON re-71R's to get the bias close and test things out proved that nicely. I like how you can modulate the brakes so nicely between 50-100 lbs of pressure or so, but not everyones wife is going to love driving this on the street, just how it has to be though.

Also @turbophil - https://www.facebook.com/kevin.fennell.104/videos/10101530499978475/
 

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Hi Phil
Thanks for the info.... and reminded me I need to ask you about ...

Recall I asked you about running the Radical CP9444 calipers on the EP GT uprights , but you advised not really possible due to 130mm Radial mounting positions on the EP Upright. I had a look at machining the uprights but Geary at EP advised against it .
Wondering if it would be possible to run CP 5040 [ Radial Mount 130mm ctrs / to suit EP Uprights ] front and rear using your 288mm disks and Brake cage .

Note: CP9444 have 2 x 34.9 & 2 x 41.3mm pistons against the CP5040 at 4 x 38.1 mm pistons .

details on both here.
https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/brake_calipers/pro_5000_r_range/4_piston-cp9444-2/3/4/5s0l-front-45.9cm%C2%B2_piston_area-suits_13_wheel.aspx

https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/brake_calipers/pro_5000_range/4_piston_caliper_families/cp5040-10/-11/-12/-13-130mm_centres.aspx

Also I am running the Bosch M4 ABS , what mods need to be done to the cage to make it work ... if any .

the 5040 should work and you'll use the further offset holes on the EP uprights. Then just run the 2 pots in the rear or you'll need to run an offset hat in the rear on your rotors to pair up with the 5040 since the centers differ from the Lotus 2 pots. we would have put 5040 holes on our rear radial adapters, but ran out of room without turning the part on the CNC and then costs get out of control... always compromises :)

the piston diameters are not a big deal since you can "tune" the biasing infinitely.

If you order the cage and settle on a caliper, let me know and we'll check the math to see if we need to change the MCs...

Of note, the 5040s are going away, or so I'm told to be replaced by radi-cal in 9444/5 range like I use. That may not be good info, but my AP rep mentioned it... Also worth mentioning, I'm not certain the 5040 will fit a 15" wheel.

As for the Bosch MS ABS, you just need to make your own plumbing. shouldn't be a big deal...

-Phil
 
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