Yes, if you have the means to get one do it! It transforms the car into a ferocious beast. Mine is up to 289hp and I recently beat a corvette c7 grand sport from a rolling start. It feels like a baby supercar. Zero regrets.Does anyone have experience with the BOE superchargers? Thoughts?
Shipping directly to the installer is a good idea. Installing the kit can be done in a couple of days, but shipping the ECU to Boe and Phil doing the programming will take a lot longer than that. I did my install over the winter when the car is stored, so I send the ECU to Phil and had them return it with the kit.I'm fairly close to pulling the trigger on a REV400 or 300. Maybe I should make my own thread, but i'll drop my question here.
My plan is to order a White Dash kit directly to the shop doing the install. They suggest mailing in the ECU at the "start of the process" does that mean when the package ships? when the install starts?
From your experience in the process, what would you have done differently? Thanks
^^^that is a great overview on the install. In my case I drove my car to BOE to get it installed. My in-laws just so happen to move to Overland Park, KS a few months before so it worked out. I also purchased a used kit from here and they worked with what I had. I did do the clutch/flywheel upgrade while it was there too. I met all the guys and they showed me around their shop. Andrew was my go to contact with the project. Overall I had a great experience with them.I recently installed a rev400 on my stock motor/tranny elise. Here are some notes.
Post install impression are that the car is much more fun to drive. I have always run standalone ECUs in previous FI cars and I was a little concerned about the "canned" tune. The car runs great though and there is no fiddling with tuning which is a huge relief. Its way faster than stock. I dont think youll impress any z06/gt3 owners in a straight line but the whole package with the added power makes it the perfect all around package. You can hear the supercharger whine but its not very loud. If youre on the fence about it, just pull the trigger on a rev300 or 400. It really does transform the car.
- Send in your ECU ASAP. As soon as its parked and ready for the install yank it and ship it.
- The stock clutch would sometimes hold WOT but not always. I would budget for a new clutch to play it safe but wouldn't change the stock one if it holds the power. Mine is currently getting replaced with an ACT HDSS.
- Check your motor mounts. I ended up installing a BOE rear mount to cope with the added engine movement.
- If your budget allows, go for a clam hinge like others have said. It will make your life much easier. There are some exhaust restrictions just FYI.
- I would also recommend installing a wideband to make sure AFRs are ok - cheap insurance IMO.
- I did the charcoal canister delete rather than relocation and the car emits a strong gas odor when i pull it into my garage. If that would bug you do the relocation rather than the delete.
- If you are ever planning to install a surge tank, now's a good time to do it. It will save you from having to replace the stock fuel pump.
- Dont forget to connect the alternator wiring before installing the blower. The instructions call this out several times, I made a mental note of it, and still forgot lol.
- Installing it was not that bad but there is definitely a lot of read between the lines with the instructions. Everything went together very well you can tell its a well engineered kit.
Have you contacted Andrew and informed him of your situation? I would think his tunes are canned with variables being items listed on your tune sheet that adjustments are made for. Or did you have a custom tune for something out of the ordinary? It sounds more like you have a vacuum leak. Are you able to pull any codes? They all might hunt a little but not what you are describing.I would also budget time for sending the ECU back for additional tuning. Mine won't idle from a cold start without holding the gas down for 3min @ ~2k-3k rpm. Even then it idles like I have a stage 3 cam in it. Runs like a bat out hell at high rpm, but anywhere below 3,500 it is not happy.
quick squirts of starter fluid around various portions of the intake etc. It will get sucked in around the vaccuum leak and cause increase in RPM. This should help you pinpoint it.Yeah, I've contacted BOE. They're great, and supportive. My plan was to buy a trailer this year and just run the car down there (6hrs each way) for a dyno and tune. Then Covid hit and my plans went to all hell.
Vacuum leak possibility has been haunting me.. My thought as well, but I can't find it. BOE said the same thing when I talked to them. Anyone have any likely leak locations or good tips how to find it?
By any chance are you experiencing a high pitched whine with your SC issues? Is yours a brand new installed by you REV300 kit or are you second owner? I ask because mine developed this awful whine that I finally traced down to a broken TB bracket that in turn broke the intake manifold bolts and studs (3) and that's where my leak was from. Propane test wouldn't revel it and posting a video resulted in a number of theories but in the final video I started moving and pushing and was able to recreate the sound. I was still new to Lotus and worked with Andrew but had a hard time from his descriptions looking for certain items. Apparently my early REV300 had the old TB support bracket and old alternator pivot fork both tend to fail as well as oem intake manifold studs. The fix was to replace the TB bracket, alternator pivot fork and ARP stud kit all from BOE. Ashley and Andrew were very patient and helped get rid of that ear piercing whine. The photo is the TB bracket that broke along with the replacement. This is the discovery video.I would also budget time for sending the ECU back for additional tuning. Mine won't idle from a cold start without holding the gas down for 3min @ ~2k-3k rpm. Even then it idles like I have a stage 3 cam in it. Runs like a bat out hell at high rpm, but anywhere below 3,500 it is not happy.