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Plug Whisperer
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If you do your own wrenching, then you may find this small update worth big attention:D

v1.1 of our oil pan includes an O-Ring on the pan rail:cool: I hated using glue on the rail, so we put o-rings on our dry sump pans from the on-set with those. Finally decided it was worth it to add the o-ring to the wetsump pans too. The price had to go up a tad, but I think it was worth it :up:

If you're in the market for a quality baffled pan, I think you'll really appreciate this great new feature.

Cheers,

Phil

BOE TOC Baffled Oil Wet Sump Pan with O-Ring
 

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Sweet, now we're up to 1980s Honda oil pan tech! I keed, I keed. But yeah, sealing the whole pan to the block is dumb. Good offering.
 

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Plug Whisperer
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Discussion Starter #3
Ha, thanks!
 

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Older but getting faster
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Finally installed my BOE TOC Baffled Oil Pan v1.1

I ordered it several months ago, finally installed it.

Here are my long-winded, honest "shade tree mechanic" installation notes:

Spend the $20 to buy the oil pan removal tool from Amazon. Just do it.

Amazon.com: Lisle 50190 Gasket Separator: Automotive


The o-ring that fits into the groove comes as a long piece of rubber spaghetti that you must carefully press into the machined groove in the pan and then RTV seal the ends together. If Phil ever decides to offer a $100 add-alternate to pre-install this o-ring before shipping, PAY IT. This step took me about an hour of colorful language and persistence.

If you don't have access to a lift, get ready to hate your life removing the old pan. Clearances are very tight and there is very little room to "thwack" the head of the removal tool. It took me HOURS to get the old pan off. When the old RTV mastic finally let loose It felt like witnessing a birth. Ask my son who was helping. I think a cried a little bit. It was THAT kind of elation.

I used a single edge razor blade to remove the bulk of the RTV (sealant) from the pan rail on the motor, wiped it dry, repeated, then carefully scrubbed the surface with a scotch bright scouring pad until the surface was pristine bright metal. I then sprayed all surfaces with brake cleaner as suggested in the install notes and wiped them down again.

High-fives to Phil for selecting studs with hex sockets in the ends. I would have been homicidal trying to install the (4) studs by the flywheel without this feature. :bow:

The quality of the pan and precise fit to the engine are extraordinary.

As you torque the pan nuts down in a star pattern I suggest using a marker pen to mark each nut after torquing. There are a lot of nuts. It's hard to remember which ones you've torqued as you go around.

I had no problems at all with dip stick clearance. Refill is now just shy of 6 quarts of oil.

Thanks for a great product!!
 

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Older but getting faster
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Update:

Just took the car for a long test drive around the area to bring the engine up to temperature before replacing the diffuser and under tray.

NO LEAKS!!

:nanner: :coolnana: :nanner2: :D
 

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Update:

Just took the car for a long test drive around the area to bring the engine up to temperature before replacing the diffuser and under tray.

NO LEAKS!!

:nanner: :coolnana: :nanner2: :D
That was one of my questions. Keep us posted if you get any. I've been going on over a month trying to remove my old pan. I sealed it with the "Right Stuff". Going to look into getting the tool.

Is this a 6 quart pan or 7?
So no RTV is needed? If so I love you.:eek:
 

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Is this a 6 quart pan or 7?
So no RTV is needed? If so I love you.:eek:
6 +/- quarts

No RTV needed, but send TurboPhil at BOE your love. :p
 

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I just ordered this pan and was wondering if it still comes with the windage tray I have seen in some pictures. Looking forward to getting my Elise track ready ....
 

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Phil told me it runs 7 quarts and I have confirmed as such.
You are correct, I apologize for the misleading post. :sad:

I forgot that I poured almost a quart of oil in the new filter before installing it. :facepalm
 

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I might have gouged the block mating surface a little. Still trying to get the damn pan off but making progress. If there is some gouging in one spot I was planning on putting the o-ring seam at the corresponding location on the pan rail and applying RTV there. If there is a raised burr I will file it down first.

Is it possible to use a metal repair like JB weld on the gouge then filing it flat, or would that just make it leak prone?
 

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Dipan, did you use the oil pan removing tool or did you go at it with a screwdriver?
Screwdriver. :thwack: I switched quickly to just razor blades and I think the part where I tapped the screwdriver in feels slightly gouged when passing the razor blade over it. I ordered one of the oil pan removal tools and it should be here any day now.
 

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Well the mating surface seems okay. It must be harder than I gave it credit for but I will make sure any surface burrs are taken care of. Getting the pan off was incredibly easy. I'm not sure if it's because I used the pan removal tool or if it's because of the very thin putty knife I used instead of unwieldy razor blades to break the silicone once the pan removal tool made some space for it.
 

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Many of the machined holes for the provided studs are right up against the very nice looking beaded welds. I haven't mounted it permanently but many of the flanged nuts provided with the kit will sit caddywampus partly on the raised weld and leave a gap away from the weld. Other holes around the oil pan rail/flange have machined cut outs to make space for the nuts. It would have been a little better I think to have done that at every hole where a weld is right there.
 

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Many of the machined holes for the provided studs are right up against the very nice looking beaded welds. I haven't mounted it permanently but many of the flanged nuts provided with the kit will sit caddywampus partly on the raised weld and leave a gap away from the weld. Other holes around the oil pan rail/flange have machined cut outs to make space for the nuts. It would have been a little better I think to have done that at every hole where a weld is right there.
I had similar issues on a couple of the studs/nuts. I ended up filing those spots down as much as possible but was unable to get a socket to work on one of the nuts due to the space and weld issue so I torqued down all others nuts and finished the difficult one off with a open end wrench.
 

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Just received my 1.1 oil pan. It arrived with no install notes. Question: Other than the old oil pan, does anything else have to be removed?
I found that using a pen like a rolling pin, made the o-ring installation a breeze.
 

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Just received my 1.1 oil pan. It arrived with no install notes. Question: Other than the old oil pan, does anything else have to be removed?
I found that using a pen like a rolling pin, made the o-ring installation a breeze.
I didn't get the comment about the o-ring being difficult to install. Piece of cake using my clean fingers....

The instructions are posted on their website:
BOE Total Oil Control 1.1 Installation Notes
 
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