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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

Apart from having to drill and weld a bung onto one of the intercooler tubes on an Exige S, is there no other way to install a boost gauge and ensure an accurate reading? Is there no vacuum hose available to simply "tee" off (since most boost gauges ship with a "tee" connector and hose)?

For those of you who has installed a boost gauge, please post some pics!

Cheers!
 

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i do not.

i do not know any one who does.

why do you need one? isnt the boost limited on supercharged cars?
 

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i do not.

i do not know any one who does.

why do you need one? isnt the boost limited on supercharged cars?
Yes, the pulley size sets the boost; but the belt can slip. That's why I am installing one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You can never monitor too many things IMO. A boost gauge might possibly be used to spot any boost/vacuum leaks if and when they happen.

Zuoom: Yes, that's what I wish to find out (must be an easier way than having to tap into the intercooler piping) and make sure. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, have heard from a couple other Exige S owners that there is nowhere to tap for a boost source... apparently, the vacuum hose off the bypass valve doesn't work (it just gives vacuum) so looks like one has to drill a hole on the intercooler tube (outlet) to get a boost source. Oh well.....
 

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My god, what a mess only to install a boost gauge in our car....:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Tell me about it... unless someone has a better idea.

I'm thinking of drilling a hole into the intercooler tube, then weld a 1/8 NPT steel bung on it and directly screw in the Zeitronix boost map sensor.
 

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This really surprises me. With all of the after market superchargers and all of the tension about reliability of each setup, I'd think that someone would be monitoring for leaks.
Wouldn't a change in A/F ratio show a leak in your system? What additional information can you get from a boost sensor? I'll google the latter question.
 

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I have the BWR kit and they were smart enough to put a 1/8 npt fitting in the manifold for that purpose... It should be quite simple to tap in to the inter-cooler pipe however make sure you do it after the inter-cooler if you want to see what the engine is seeing as there will be a pressure drop threw the inter-cooler... btw. if the inter-cooler pipe has 1/16" side wall thickness and you tap it carefully you probably won't need to weld anything to it. The best way to do it is get a 1"x1" square piece of aluminum 1/8-1/4 thick and weld it to the pipe. Then drill threw it and tap it. If you use a 1/8 npt aluminum bung and try to weld it on it will probably melt and destroy the threads.
 

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i just tapped into the rubber hose of the intercooler, then if i ever want to move it to another car or get rid of it i just replace the short piece of hose.
took me less than 5 minutes.
 

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...hope you figured out how to hook up the boost gauge....

Does anyone using the zeitronix gauge know if you can use a different brand boost sensor other then the zeitronix one?

does anyone using the zeitronix gauge know the wiring for the harness to the serial port. I know it goes from a phone cord to a serial port, but I have a hard time buying their $27 one when I can get a $3 one on eBay and wire it myself, I just don't know which wire goes to which. :shrug:
 

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I have the BWR kit and they were smart enough to put a 1/8 npt fitting in the manifold for that purpose... It should be quite simple to tap in to the inter-cooler pipe however make sure you do it after the inter-cooler if you want to see what the engine is seeing as there will be a pressure drop threw the inter-cooler... btw. if the inter-cooler pipe has 1/16" side wall thickness and you tap it carefully you probably won't need to weld anything to it. The best way to do it is get a 1"x1" square piece of aluminum 1/8-1/4 thick and weld it to the pipe. Then drill threw it and tap it. If you use a 1/8 npt aluminum bung and try to weld it on it will probably melt and destroy the threads.
I'll have to look for that 1/8 npt fitting. is it right after the MAF on the top side?
 

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Digging up an old thread, any pictures of a set up that did not involve drilling the metal inlet/outlet tubes?
you can punch a small hole in the coupler and stick the tube in there. I have one I use when I do dyno pulls.
 
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