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Just read somewhere else about boost leaks, and how they can be some nasty little power robbing "gremlins"!

For our (stock) set-up's, Eaton S/C's, A/A intercooled, etc. How pervasive of an issue is this? How easy is it to tell if you even have a leak without boost gauges? Where are the most likely areas throughout our systems that these might occur? And how do you find them / detect them?

Any good old shade-tree tips/tricks to detect these without some serious either equipment or testing?

TIA for any help advice or insight.
Cheers,
-Grant
 

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A boost gauge is a very very easy thing to hook up.....you dont have to permanently mount it, just run the line through the fire wall using the existing grommets for entry. Drape the line over the passenger seat, pop a gauge on it, and have a passenger call out boost lvls at any given RPM.

All quickly, and easily reversable when you are done.
 

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You can check it on a dyno, or with a boost gauge... an A/F gauge would also be able to show that there might be a problem.

To "Diagnose" the location of them, you can use a smoke vapor generator, plug your throttle body, and see if any comes out of any fittings.

Basically, just make sure your hose clamps are tight, and make sure the bolts on your tb/intake manifold are tight.

Bypass valve could be stuck open a bit, but you would probably need to pull the supercharger off to remedy that.

Not sure why this is a concern of yours...

Put the car on a dyno, if you want to see if you're missing any power.

Though power losses could also come from a slipping belt.
 

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You can check it on a dyno, or with a boost gauge... an A/F gauge would also be able to show that there might be a problem.

To "Diagnose" the location of them, you can use a smoke vapor generator, plug your throttle body, and see if any comes out of any fittings.

Basically, just make sure your hose clamps are tight, and make sure the bolts on your tb/intake manifold are tight.

Bypass valve could be stuck open a bit, but you would probably need to pull the supercharger off to remedy that.

Not sure why this is a concern of yours...

Put the car on a dyno, if you want to see if you're missing any power.

Though power losses could also come from a slipping belt.
Funny thing about losing power, it seems all of my cars lose like 100hp within a few months of owning them....TADTS Keeps me holding the pedal down longer and longerrotfl
 

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shay2nak
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Where would you tap in to read the boost?
 

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Boost leaks

I put in a VF stage 1 a few months ago and had some "issues" The main one being that it developed a misfire while turning right over 1900 RPM any gear. It turned out to be a wheel sensor, traction control, ECU hiccup. It was fixed by restting the ECU (thanks for your wisdom Charlie) Anyway before this I thought it was a manifold leak, which I did find and fix! If you idle the car and spray "Electrical contact cleaner" around all the joints and gaskets, if there is a leak it will immediately and repeatably cause the engine to stall. This happened to me so I used silicone on the gasket O rings and fixed it. A leak at idle is vacuum but that leak will also be there under boost.This probably won"t work if you have a flexible hose joint leak that blows out under pressure.
 

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Did you have the SC installed by a licensed mechanic?

How do you like the vf1 power? I can assure you you'll be
anxious for more...good thing that is easily remedied by vf2.
-Robert

p.s. What is your average temp. on the summertime...is there much humidity?
 

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The VF stage 1 is as good an increase over the BWR as that was over stock and I love the whine (see the youtube vid). Perth summer gets to 38 Celsius regularly but not overly humid.



Did you have the SC installed by a licensed mechanic?

How do you like the vf1 power? I can assure you you'll be
anxious for more...good thing that is easily remedied by vf2.
-Robert

p.s. What is your average temp. on the summertime...is there much humidity?
 

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Here's a site i used for reference to make a boost leak tester from $10 of parts from Home Depot:
IC Pipe Tester

Its for a turbo, but same basic idea....

Note, you will need access to an air compressor tank since once you pressurize the car , you need to listen carefully for any hissing noises. Also, they said you could use a bike pump on that site, but i tried that once and it was hopeless. So, get a compressor tank... You also need to look at the boost gauge on your car or on the compressor tank to make sure you don't put in too much PSI into your car...
 

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anytime richard.

usually you can hear the boost leak, unless its really small, if you suspect a particular area a bit of mild soapy water usually finds it.

for the pressure test/smoke test i use the R34 leak finder kit you can find at almost any automotive store, it has a UV visible dye that you can add in and look for with a UV light and glasses.
 

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If one of your intercooler tube hose clamps is broken or loose, it will sound like you have a blow-off valve. Ask me how I know... :(

I thought I was in the Fast & Furious crowd one day...
 

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If one of your intercooler tube hose clamps is broken or loose, it will sound like you have a blow-off valve. Ask me how I know... :(

I thought I was in the Fast & Furious crowd one day...
rotfl

so when is RLS gonna start selling vinyl graphics, under-lights, Chrome wheels, and NOOOOOOOOSSSSS!!! the big bottles, two of em? :no:
 
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