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Discussion Starter #1
Back looks easy enough. Front looks tough. Can it be done without removing the front clam?
 

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German Reimport
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The dealer installed mine without removing the front clam.
But I was stupid and didn't ask them for an estimate first. banghead.gif
When I picked up the car they charged me 4 hours of labor at around $100 per hour... tassigne.gif
For that kind of money I would have rather done it myself...
 

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Same here. 4 hours. Claimed the calipers had to come off. I wasn't happy, thought it was a one hour job, but I didn't ask for an estimate so its on me.
 

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I just installed mine yesterday. It took me ~ 2 hours. Nothing as serious as removing the clam. And you're right, the rears are a lot easier.

On the first front I did, I had to remove the caliper, but then I learned the trick and didn't have to do that on the rest. The secret is to remove the hard line connector first then the nut that holds the rubber line to the bulkhead. That allows you to spin the hose to remove it from the caliper. Install in the opposite order.

The trick on the fronts is to remove the grills and the small black plastic liner just above the top of the radiator (only 2 screws). That gives you access to a slot cut into the carbon fiber crash structure where the hose is mounted. Do things in the same order I described above.

The drivers side is easier to do, so I'd start there. The passenger side front is a little tougher because there is a hard line that inhibits movement of the wrench. A short wrench will help.

You'll need a 15mm (i think) for the hose and hard line connectors and a 17mm for nut that holds the hose to the bulkhead.

I'll have my car apart again tomorrow evening to do some more bleeding, so if you need pics I can take some then.

V
 

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exige <> elise
 

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good point.... i didn't notice that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, It did look easier on one side than the other when I looked
 

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From the photo it looks like you have an Exige and on the Exige you need to remove the front clam. It is not really such a big deal. You will also need to Dremel or otherwise cut out some of the composite that is in the way when you try to get wrenches on the fittings. Again, not a big deal. Clam off for the first time will take you about 2-3 hours. Cut that in half for the second time you do it. Plan on having help to lift it off, and when you refit it to the chassis. By the way, you will get much more appreciation for Lotus and its race breeding when you take the clam off.

Jerry
 

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Personally, I wouldnt bother. Other than looking cool, it is a waste of money. I removed my power brake booster for another reason and now actuate the master cylinder directly with the brake pedal. The pedal is as hard as a rock. It would be impossible for the braided lines to make it even more stiff. If you have spongy pedal problems I would suggest that you either need to bleed the brakes or realize that the booster introduces its own amount of sponginess and changing brake lines isnt going to make it go away.

FWIW, I changed to braided on my WRX and couldnt tell the difference.
 

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Got any info about removing the brake booster? I'd be keen on trying that. I desperately want better pedal feel.

Cade
"Better" being what exactly? Harder I assume? I had a post sometime ago about the poor feel (i.e. soft) when I first bought the car. It did not inspire confidence. I fixed it with better pads (Pagid RS14, which may not be an option for the street), and in moving the brake pedal out further a bit (which I believe may have taken up some slack in the mechanism as well as fixing heal-toe alignment). My car is a 2005, so it has the older style pedal box. I had purchased braided brake lines to install as well, but never did so, as the two changes I had made improved the brake feel so much I stopped there.

Hope this helps...

-R Warden
 

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Shawn,

I put them on my Exige several months ago and highly recommend it. I also went to Super Blue, and noticed much better brake feel. I would definitely do it. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
 

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That gives you access to a slot cut into the carbon fiber crash structure
Just to pick a nit, the crash structure is not carbon fiber - it's simply black fiberglass. Although Lotus did develop (and manufacturers) a similar carbon fiber crash structure for one of the Aston Martins, it's not used on the Elise/Exige as it's not needed - the fiberglass works just fine.
 

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I had it done a while back at South bay. I believe it was under $400.00. Had a full brake fluid change and had the SS brake lines installed. Don’t remember if I had anything else gone like an oil change at the same time. Off hand I think it was around 300.00 for everything. Parts and all.

And no they did not remove the clam.

Kevin
 

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Just to pick a nit, the crash structure is not carbon fiber - it's simply black fiberglass. Although Lotus did develop (and manufacturers) a similar carbon fiber crash structure for one of the Aston Martins, it's not used on the Elise/Exige as it's not needed - the fiberglass works just fine.
See... that's why I hang out here. I learn something new every day!
 

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for those that added SS lines did you notice any difference in break feel?
 

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question is where to get the SS lines?

when the brakes need service this will also be added by Danstoy along with rotors and pads

thanx!
 
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