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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday after driving for 10 minutes and stopped at an off-ramp, my clutch pedal was stuck in the up position. I managed to re-start the car in 1st and make it home that way. The reservoir is very low and I find that the release fork snapped off, too. I don't know if the seized hydraulics or the fork came first. I rebuilt the master cylinder about a year ago. Any thoughts on the cause of seizing & the broken fork? I'm guessing I should rebuild the slave. How tough is it to get into the pressure plate area?
 

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gotta remove transmission... bet the release bearing is toast as well...
 

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I'd have to guess the bearing is toast as well. My guide for removing the clutch on HowTune would be a useful resource to understand what's involved. You may want to do the clutch and flywheel while you're there.

Here's the writeup:
Replacing the Clutch on a Lotus Elise | HowTune.com
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just found the procedure in the Esprit manual. Now I need to decide whether to do it myself when I have time in September, or take it to a shop. I've never needed a clutch on any of my cars (> 100k mi each), so I doubt this one at 28k will need that.

I think the fork broke, then the slave over-extended, freezing it there. I did find the part of the fork on the road today, so don't need to buy the nut and adjusting screw.

I recently replaced a shaft seal, so I'm not excited about taking the shaft off again.
 

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LCF, you probably know this, but your S4s #158 is the second from the last US 4 cylinder Esprit. Mine is #155. RE the clutch, I'm with Sy. At lease replace the clutch disc and pressure plate, they're relatively cheap.
 

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:eek:

I've done a few clutch replacements on 4 cylinder Esprits. The clutch fork (if we're talking about Lotus part AO82Q4026) is one big piece of steel. If that fractured you will definitely need to pull the trans out of the car and figure out why that happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
:eek:

I've done a few clutch replacements on 4 cylinder Esprits. The clutch fork (if we're talking about Lotus part AO82Q4026) is one big piece of steel. If that fractured you will definitely need to pull the trans out of the car and figure out why that happened.
Can you elaborate? I'm not sure what to look for, so I'm guessing I should get my mechanic to do the job.

Here's the break:
 

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Just a little superglue, and good to go... I would consider trying to tig or mig it until you can get one....

If it is cast iron, as it looks, not sure can do much without special rod, a tig expert, and a lot of luck. Theoretically, you may be able to pin it, and then weld it.

Hope you can get it sorted without too much problem, you might want to call Jeff Monday at JAE and see if there are any available this side of the pond.

Brian
 

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If the nut was misadjusted you could have had too much travel on the fork. Did you loosen the nut as shown, or did it walk on its own?

The same thing happened to a friend's S4 -- twice. The first time it broke the dealer fixed it, the second time we did. I blame misadjustment in both instances.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If the nut was misadjusted you could have had too much travel on the fork. Did you loosen the nut as shown, or did it walk on its own?

The same thing happened to a friend's S4 -- twice. The first time it broke the dealer fixed it, the second time we did. I blame misadjustment in both instances.
I loosened the nut and screw to make sure they were both salvageable. I agree that the adjustment must have been off.
 

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I'd say the safest course of action will be to replace the clutch disk, pressure plate and release bearing, along with the fork. If nothing else, those parts need to be inspected to be sure they didn't contribute to the failure.
 

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As far as elaborating:

1. You cannot replace the fork with the trans in the car, so it will have to come out. You need to also make sure that the retainer spring is there (the little flat steel spring riveted on the back of the fork) and when you put the new fork in that the retainer spring is properly seated. There is an illustration in the service manual of how to seat the retainer spring.

2. I say "when you replace the fork" because I don't think it is worth trying to weld this one. In general I have never seen these sort of clutch lever pieces successfully work when they are welded. And this, in my experience, is true with other cars besides an Esprit. If they work at all they soon fail. Given the amount of labor in pulling and returning the transmission to the car, it is in my view a no-brainer to replace the fork. If you gt this thing welded up and put the car back together I think you will soon be taking it apart again to replace the failed weld. If thisd was some external static structural piece, then welding is a reasonable alternative because if it fails it is not too big a deal to re-repair. But in this situation it is a big deal if the welded fork fails - which I think it will.

3. Along with Sanj I would say (again, given the labor) that you ought to replace the release bearing and the friction disk at a minimum, and the pressure plate if it shows any wear at all. And take a look at the flywheel surface to see if it needs to be ground. None of this is difficult once the trans is out of the car.
 

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The weld deal was just a quick fix, if the break was external, and only a temp situation. It would probably last about as long as the superglue. Maybe not... Now if you know a blacksmith that could forge it...... Call Jeff.

I have less than 18k on a S4, and it is on its third clutch, all by the po.... Last time with a flywheel, right before I bought it. Tom is absolutely right, do the clutch when the tranny is out.

Brian
 

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I have less than 18k on a S4, and it is on its third clutch, all by the po....
Worth noting that it's not normal to average 6K miles per clutch. In fact, that's insane and I hope no newbie reading this forum is going to shy away from an Esprit based on your car.

Either the PO has no clue how to drive a stick, or he and/or his mechanic stink at all things mechanical.
 

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+1 on the clutch wear issue.....

Yeah, absolutely crazy to do a clutch every 6k miles. Something is wrong with that situation and it may have something to do with why the fork broke. Time to pull the tranny and go over everything so you can fix it correctly and have confidence that you won't be going through this scenario again anytime soon.
 

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The previous owner was a bozo... had the car 15 years, and thought it was a golf cart. I have been months on the stands chasing problems, but have not been able to regularly work on it. That is changing, in I want TO DRIVE IT AGAIN, THIS YEAR.

Yesterday I went ahead and pulled the intake manifold. Found the bottom of the intake gasket was toasty on 2 & 3, and appears to have been leaking.

Then the zinger, it looks like the last time the cams were shimmed, they used regular gasket sealer, or silicone sealer, under the cam towers. Errrrrr... going to decide today to either start pulling the cams, or pulling the motor.

Early on when I got it, it appeared the boost was going nuts, and found the wastegate capsule shaft seemed to be stuck at the joint with the wastegate arm. Freed it up, and greased it, and seemed to be fine. So, the car may have been overboosting for some time, and helping eat clutches. The other thing that could cause this would be bad thrust bearings, but I have not tried measuring that yet.

The biggest zinger so far was the front crank bolt was finger tight. Pulling the chargecooler pump this morning, expect it is quite shot (already have a new electric bosch to replace it). Hussie, you are a bitch.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #20
special tool

Is the mandrel tool TOOOT0654F required for clutch alignment as mentioned in the manual?
 
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