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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
No, it's not broken again. However, I did get a good look at the replacement and I'm none too happy. It looks like a natural break point is manufactured in right above the weld. I have attached pictures:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
See the bend right above the bracket? That's where it broke the first time. There's almost a manufactured "crimp" in the shifter. I'm going to try to get it welded before re-assembling so it's stronger. Rothrock tried to pin it all on me, and I may have contributed to the break, but there's a built in defect/problem as well.

I will be very surprised if we don't have more of these breaks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Two more notes-yes, those are Stan's directions printed out on the floor, and yes, I re-swaged the cable lines too after these pictures were taken. I'm surprised Rothrock didn't get them straight to begin with, but maybe they torque off line.

This whole thread will probably be moved to the engine section, but I wanted the non-technical Elisetalk subscribers to be aware of this inherent issue...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'd be interested for sure, despite the SCCA potential problems. I'd rather do that battle than have another borken shifter :rolleyes:
 

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As a somewhat interesting aside (to me at least) the first time I ever drove a Lotus it was a Europa in 1972. On my first shift from 1st to 2nd the shifter broke off in my hand. I know this is off topic and doesn’t fit in with the good info you’re giving here but I think about it every time I see a thread about your shifter problems.
 

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Given the leverage that does indeed look frightfully fragile.

I've never heard about this problem in the UK though, so either the cars as different or the ones breaking in the US are isolated problems rather than a design flaw :confused:
 

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That does look like a flimsy shifter! Even if you might be shifting with more force than necessary, a shifter shouldn't break in half. I had never heard of that happening on other cars until I saw the reports here.
 

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I'd have a shop evaluate the possibility of tack welding on a reinforcement plate.
For a temporary provision, I'd be tempted to add a plate on the engine side of that area and use several small hose clamps to cinch the plate to the shifter. Looks like there is enough room for at least one clamp below the bend point.

m
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Great news for me. Working in a small business has its perks. My company has a full maintenance shop, and the head mechanic told me no problem to welding some more metal on. I'll have a sturdy shifter for no cost, exactly to my specs. Its good to be Controller/C.F.O. :D
 

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>>>Great news for me. Working in a small business has its perks. My company has a full maintenance shop, and the head mechanic told me no problem to welding some more metal on. I'll have a sturdy shifter for no cost, exactly to my specs. Its good to be Controller/C.F.O.<<<

There ya go...just drive the car in without the console and let 'im at it. Then the lever will be bulletproof. Peace of mind!
 

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it would appear that by theory, if you move the linkage points to be higher on the angle of throw.. than the throw would be reduced (the linkage would get the same length of movement with less travel of the shifter) might not be that simple, but ...just a thought !
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
:rolleyes: Found out, dammit. Yeah, I just pulled and pulled until the thing broke off. Me He-Man! uhhh!

Now I wonder if I'll need to dis-assemble for the weld or if they can do it right on the car sans the reverse release cable?
 

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>>>it would appear that by theory, if you move the linkage points to be higher on the angle of throw.. than the throw would be reduced (the linkage would get the same length of movement with less travel of the shifter) might not be that simple, but ...just a thought !<<<

Yes, true. The upper cable is front to back as in 1-2 shifting. The lower cable moves you sideways across the gate.

If you raise the height of the upper cable pivot this will reduce shift travel proportionate to the change in dimensions. But at some point you'll also run into clearance issues with the console cover.

I often shift my Elise holding onto the shaft under the ball. Grabbing the boot pretty much. The location of the e-brake lever complicates this a bit. This gives a sense of a quick shift action.
 

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I know that this is off topic,but,what does the "E"in e-brake stand for?:confused:
 
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