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Got it detailed somewhere and they burned through to the fiberglass in a few places. It's turned into an insurance thing but I'm apprehensive about getting it repainted even if their insurance would pay for it.

Has anyone gone through this?
 

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That is depressing. I hope it works out for you.
 

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Was this a professional company doing the detailing, or just some guy?
Their insurance should deal with it and return to the correct condition.
 

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Got it detailed somewhere and they burned through to the fiberglass in a few places. It's turned into an insurance thing but I'm apprehensive about getting it repainted even if their insurance would pay for it.

Has anyone gone through this?
That's terrible, hope it works out.

I understand being apprehensive about repaint, but don't see what other option you have.

On the bright side, unless MAACO does the repaint, it almost certainly has to be better than what comes on the car from the factory.
 

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That's terrible, hope it works out.

I understand being apprehensive about repaint, but don't see what other option you have.

On the bright side, unless MAACO does the repaint, it almost certainly has to be better than what comes on the car from the factory.
Our car must have been built on a good day - I always thought we had a top notch paint job. Perhaps it is just the color?

Anyway, when our car got popped and needed a clam replacement, I visited the body shop a few times to check progress and deliver/pick up parts. It isn't hard to paint.
 

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Wow...

That is very depressing.:( I guess the Lotus needs a "hand job" even more than I do!:huh:
 

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I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say it was the detailer rather than the car. I've never heard of anyone having a problem machine polishing their car (correctly of course).
 

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Sorry to hear.

I've heard from others that the paint system (color and clear coat) is fairly thin, especially at edges and in places like atop the B pillar (roll hoop), and easy to burn through if using a direct rotary polisher, if not done with care. Those things are best left to trusted professionals even with a regular car.

It's much safer to use a random orbital, such as a Porter Cable.
 

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Sorry to hear.

I've heard from others that the paint system (color and clear coat) is fairly thin (especially at edges and in places like atop the B pillar (roll hoop)), and easy to burn through if using a rotary polisher, if not done with care.

It's much safer to use an orbital, such as Porter Cable.
+1
Sorry to hear of your situation and I hope your new paint job is done to your satisfation.

Never let anyone near your Lotus with a rotary buffer. :panic: There is just too much potential for a burn through with all the tight curves and edges. I am even apprehensive when using my DA Porter Cable on my Elise and I have never even come close to burning through paint while using it on any car.
 

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Any real detailer would measure the paint and tape up properly before coming anywhere near the car with a rotary. This is standard industry practice, and burning through the paint ought to result in an E&O insurance payout. You may want to post some pics here or over at Autopia of the damage.
 

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Sorry to hear about your story. Let the insurance pay for it. You should be fine. I will say (having had to battle over the color of the paint on my car after my ex-wife backed into it) that when they repaint it that you should insist that they use a spectrophotometer when matching color. That will be more accurate than just using the factory paint codes.
 

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You got the paint burned in a FEW places???? Can you please describe those areas?

It sounds like a repaint is necessary. There's not much else you can do. Rotary's need to be treated with respect, because they will bite.
 

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yeah, Lotus says don't use buffer on the car. Only good old fashioned rub downs.
 

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yeah, Lotus says don't use buffer on the car. Only good old fashioned rub downs.
Well, I actually remember reading this when I was browsing through the Elise owner's manual. But I can't agree with this. Without the rotary dramatic improvements in the paint's condition is almost impossible to achieve:

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f92/lotus-elise-restoration-detail-60531/

Patience, proper speeds, and precautionary steps could have prevented any burning of the paint. Keep in mind that the above process used some of the most aggressive steps out there, yet I didn't burn the paint!

If you were local I'd send you my friend who does paint work :wallbang:
 

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Sorry to hear that happened, but can you post a pic when you get a chance? I've never seen a buffer burn thru paint, but always hear "be careful b/c you can".

Also, shouldn't the detailer pay for the damages or at least their insurance??? Why would yours take the hit?
 

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Well, I actually remember reading this when I was browsing through the Elise owner's manual. But I can't agree with this. Without the rotary dramatic improvements in the paint's condition is almost impossible to achieve:
I used to think the same thing until I saw what was being achieved with a Flex/ PC and some Megs 105. Google "Kevin Brown Method" if you have seen it yet. Very similar results to a rotary without holograms and the risk of burning trim or through paint.
 

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I used to think the same thing until I saw what was being achieved with a Flex/ PC and some Megs 105. Google "Kevin Brown Method" if you have seen it yet. Very similar results to a rotary without holograms and the risk of burning trim or through paint.
Hehehe!!! I just got finished reading the entire 16-page thread on the KBM. I'm curious to try it out but I'm waiting for Kevin to finish his paper. Have you found it yet?

O, and I want a flex...My 4 pc's vibrate too much for me to take anymore...

Sorry for threadjacking. But I HOPE the OP gets the detail to pay for the damage...Is he insured?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Thanks for all the support everyone.

The problem started with this thread http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f92/how-remove-hard-water-deposits-62464/

I hired a place to do a detail job, but that did not remove the deposits. I also tried a few other options. After determining that we were dealing with clear coat etching, they recommended doing a wet sand (Wet Sanding| Detailing Technique and Procedure).

The wet sand worked great, except that on the final polishing pass they burned through on some of the edges.

The insurance adjuster came by yesterday and seemed pretty knowledgeable and aware of the unique complexities that come with repairing the Elise. He recommended a full repaint on affected panels. That would be the clam, passenger door, and engine hood. That also involves redoing some VentureFilm that Premiere Mobile Group installed.

Sigh...
 

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Thats why I like my $15 orbital from Wal-Mart. Not strong enough to damage the paint, but still does a knock out job and doesnt kill my hands afterwards like hand buffing....especially if you just spent the last couple hours claybaring :(
 
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