The Lotus Cars Community banner

21 - 32 of 32 Posts

·
Vendor
Joined
·
11 Posts
  • Definitely stick with white - it helps resale and stands up to the weather better (trailers aren't really painted, more of a coated aluminum).
  • If you are doing the escape door, make sure both the escape door & the wheelwell inside the trailer are low enough that you can open the door - the escape door will be a big waste if your car door hits the fender inside.
  • Wheelbase of tow vehicle is as important as payload. Trailer capacity only tells part of the story - you will presumably purchase a weight-distributing hitch set up and can install airbags if needed but if your F-150 is a short bed / single cab you may find towing a handful. Crew cabs / long beds are generally more stable and resistant to sway when towing.
  • Put E-rated tires on your truck. The additional plies in the sidewall of the heavier-duty tire will greatly increase towing stability.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
920 Posts
Was is the height of the strap going forward? I've been contemplating doing this but do not know if I will clear my splitter. Also, why the single strap and not the wheel net straps?

Thanks,
Eldon
The straps I have used are about 3/4" to 1" above the e-track. It is dependent on the height of the clip in front of the tire. The tire nets I have seen are too long to work like the strap over the tire. They are okay with higher clearance vehicles, but not low sports cars with smaller tires. The single straps are not a problem and I would recommend running them on all four corners.

What sort of brake controller are you sticking in the tow vehicle?
I run a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
588 Posts
Axles: Torsion axles allow a lower ride height (think airstream trailer). You definitely want the wheels as outboard of the box as you can get if you do a narrow trailer. The downside to torsion axles is that they age and die about every 15-20 years. They're pretty cheap to replace, though, and not hard if the trailer manufacturer used the bolt-up mounts instead of the weld-on mounts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
I've got a 20' Featherlite 4926 V-nose to haul an Ariel Atom and have been happy with it. It's built like a tank, and I have a lot of space both front/rear for extras like wheels/tires, tools etc.

In no particular order, this would be my perfect trailer:
all aluminum construction (better corrosion resistance, less maintenance, much better resale value)
tandem Dexter torsion axles, minimum 5000# rating, non-EZ lube (there are enough EZ-lube horror stories online that scared me away from them)
0.040" siding
4-wheel electric brakes
escape door
extruded aluminum or rubber coin floor
tire rack
winch w/ remote
solar panel inverter/charger for 12V battery
spare tire/mount on inside
LED lighting on ceiling corners
power tongue jack
e-tracks on floor
ramp extensions
rearview wireless camera
30A shore connect
ceiling vent, braced/wired for future AC
generator cubby if length permits

Don't forget either a weight-distributing or a WD/sway control hitch. These can push upwards of $800.

And don't skimp on tires... Goodyear Endurance made in the USA. Vast majority of trailer tires are cheap Chinese crap.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
588 Posts
all aluminum construction (better corrosion resistance, less maintenance, much better resale value)
tandem Dexter torsion axles, minimum 5000# rating, non-EZ lube (there are enough EZ-lube horror stories online that scared me away from them)

Don't forget either a weight-distributing or a WD/sway control hitch. These can push upwards of $800.

And don't skimp on tires... Goodyear Endurance made in the USA. Vast majority of trailer tires are cheap Chinese crap.
An excellent list - I clipped a couple of items out for elaboration:

All aluminum construction means fewer dissimilar material concerns and fewer rot issues.
Don't fear the EZ-lube axle. I wouldn't option one, but there is absolutely nothing requiring you to use the zerk fitting. Just repack the bearings the old fashioned way every 5000 miles or two years and be happy - procedure is identical whether you have a lube hole drilled in the stub axle or not. I agree that EZ-lube is a bad idea (except maybe for boat trailers) - you never want to fill up the air void in between the inner and outer bearings, and that's what EZ-lube does.

The world is full of weight distributing hitches. They all work fine. I use and prefer the Andersen because it also includes an antisway function, but you do have to understand how it works.

Tires: Yes, cheap trailer tires are horrible, and sadly common. Expect to have to change all the tires if you don't get to option up to something decent at time of sale. Before you grumble, consider the cost of a blowout putting your rig in the ditch, then buy the good tires - very cheap in comparison to the cost of a blowout with cheap trailer tires.

Why do I know about this stuff? I added lightness and bought a dainty fiberglass 16' Casita (2200 lbs) when we decided we wanted a travel trailer. Between that and the utility trailer I've had for 20 years, I've been at this for a while.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
442 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
So I found a used 8.5x20' flat front all aluminum Ez-hauler / Mission (sold under both names from Alcom in Maine).

It has everything I need (Ultimate escape door, LED lights w/ battery, 5200# torsion axles) plus a few bonus options (36" ramp extension, interior white ceiling and walls, spare tire mount, water-resistant flooring liner, and upper and lower cabinets). What it lacks I should be able to easily add (e-track & winch).

Ask price is 10,500; however, I can't inspect or view it prior to purchase as it is with a consignment place. They offer a 7-day no questions asked if I'm unhappy full refund with delivery. There are pros and cons to this.

That said does anyone have experience, good or bad, with Alcom's trailers under the EZ-Hauler or Mission brand?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
588 Posts
A flat front is OK if your tow vehicle is tall - pickup with cap, or big delivery van or SUV for instance. If your TV is short, it is a monstrous aerodynamic penalty unless you fair the nose with a fiberglass fairing sticking out over the tongue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
Trailers with graphics on sides/backs /top are less likely to be stolen than plain white or plain whatever
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
442 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Trailers with graphics on sides/backs /top are less likely to be stolen than plain white or plain whatever
Never heard that. I always assumed the opposite (like RBH's old trailer) putting an indication of what's inside (e.g., Lotus, Porsche) would heighten the likelihood of theft.

The thought because it's more identifiable with the graphics that it's less desirable to steal?
 

·
He's on fire!
Joined
·
3,134 Posts
I don't get cheaper insurance rates based on the look of my trailer....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
588 Posts
We have quite a few grounds maintenance contractors and building contractors here using old box trailers that may well have been car trailers at some point. Some have logos on the side, some don't. The common element is that the trailer looks well used, is parked outdoors, and is obviously never washed.

I would absolutely, positively never put a car brand logo on the trailer, or anything that suggested 'race car, parts, and tools inside.'
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
A trailer saying Lotus or wearing a Lotus badge on its outside is not a great idea - just like one does not walk around wearing a shirt that says GLOCK - but a trailer that has lettering that says Generic Racing or SCCA or HSR Historic Sports Racing or Central Florida Region Formula Continental Champion 2018 is more what I'm talking about.

The other thing that should clearly be posted on any enclosed trailer are these two phrases, because of Major Highways having D.O.T. Scales along them: NOT FOR HIRE - PRIVATELY OWNED …..and that way you just sail by the places where semis and trailers go
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Top