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Has anyone completed the upgrade from BWR to VF and how did it go. I am planning to do this when the parts arrive in Australia soon. I would like to leave the alternator in its current location as it works fine (15K so far no reliability issues) and I don't have to move the charcoal cannister. It also seems to me to be a more efficient belt routing. Does anyone have any wisdom for me.
 

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I am also interested in this, as I have a BWR on mine. I am still trying to decide between a VF and a TVS, with trouble of installation being a consideration.
 

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The VF kit does rotate the alternator further back which requires the charcoal canister to be moved. You might be able to keep the BWR setup where the alternator is moved up front. You would need a custom belt size and you would loose the support on the snout drive from not using alternator bracket.
 

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I am also interested in this, as I have a BWR on mine. I am still trying to decide between a VF and a TVS, with trouble of installation being a consideration.
me too. I have limited wrench time available for my cars, and nobody to help with install within hours of driving, so the experience is important to me, perhaps even moreso than the overall cost (within reason).
 

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Anthony
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I would like to leave the alternator in its current location as it works fine (15K so far no reliability issues) and I don't have to move the charcoal cannister. It also seems to me to be a more efficient belt routing. Does anyone have any wisdom for me.
No wisdom, just agreement.

This is JMO but it seems as though the VF belt routing around the A/C compressor is rather weak. And especially since the A/C on some folks cars works less than optimal. The BWR A/C pulley it is like all that I have ever seen, that being around 1/2 of the belt contacting the pulley.

When the compressor kicks in there is a rapid snap and in time will slip if the belt doesn't have enough surface area under torque. It's the constant on off of the compressor that worries me. I would be concerned, and am, about areas that use the compressor (A/C) for several months of the year, like where I am located ---SoCal. Just got done installing a compressor in a Chevy V8 and the belt wraps at least 1/2 way around.

I was dead set on upgrading my BWR with the VF especially with Charlie's tune, now I have doubts. Thanks to those who posted with questions and diagrams. Now I'm not sure which way to go. The BWR alternator placement with Charlie's tune and an intercooler would be ideal. I think a fix is possible from VF.

Talked to an A/C guru type a few days ago, his comment after seeing the color picture of the engine with the belt in place ---"Not ideal :no: but in cooler areas where the A/C isn't often used and for tracking it will be less of a concern." Said he wouldn't have done it that way. Damn, and I liked everything about the VF setup. Now what to do? Wonder about the belt placement on the factory Exige S and BOE?
 

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Crazy Car Guy
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Hello Guys,

The belt routing is pretty close to the same as the Exige S belt routing. I find it hard to believe that the factory belt routing for the Exige S is not sufficient for the A/C. The A/C function should be just the same as the S models.

I do not recommend omitting the nose cone bracket as it plays a big part in reducing and torsional forces on the nose which can lead to belt slippage and a reduction in power output.

Thanks,

Jermaine~
 

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Anthony
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Agree about the truth! Just want a system that is optimal.

Yes, it is "close." But the pictures tell it all. The angle of the belt going from the alternator pulley to the A/C compressor us more vertical and would have more surface pull on the A/C pulley.

Is there a way to move the alternator, duplicating the "S" angle? I believe all purchasers want to see things really work without disappointment in the future. Maybe that angle will be OK and maybe it won't?

Texans will be the first to know when summer hits and the compressor is put to work. :) I like the "S's" more aggressive angle.
 

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you might notice that the alternator bracket is the same on this pic (the one to which you're probably comparing) as the one above. They're both the OEM Lotus bracket. The angle should be the same.



My guess is that they used this OEM bracket to model their own bracket, I could be wrong, though.
 

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Agree about the truth! Just want a system that is optimal.

Yes, it is "close." But the pictures tell it all. The angle of the belt going from the alternator pulley to the A/C compressor us more vertical and would have more surface pull on the A/C pulley.

Is there a way to move the alternator, duplicating the "S" angle? I believe all purchasers want to see things really work without disappointment in the future. Maybe that angle will be OK and maybe it won't?

Texans will be the first to know when summer hits and the compressor is put to work. :) I like the "S's" more aggressive angle.

Texans have already had this kit on their cars for many months...using the A/C when I want...no issues at all and it never misses a beat. My belt is nice and tight in the area you point out and there are no signs of slipping, plus the belt is still in excellent condition with no signs of premature wear.

Honestly, from my testing thus far I think this is a complete non-issue.
 

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Anthony
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My guess is that they used this OEM bracket to model their own bracket, I could be wrong, though.
That makes sense. It might just be the angle of the camera that makes it look different in the pics of the VF. That'll be a plus if they are the same. :up:

Just saw Matt's post...good news! Thanks!
 

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Here is my 2 cents. Dont start the project until you verify you have all the components. There was no parts list and I wouldnt find out I needed something until I got to that step, happened repeatedly, and that delayed me weeks with the car in pieces. Second, order the thick intake manifold gasket from Monkeywrenchracing.com. This will reduce or maybe eliminate the grinding of the manifold and VVT which touch with the stock gasket (and potentially some performance enhancement by insulating the intake from the hot engine). I would grind 1 mm off each the manifold and the VVT anyway because it sucks when you get the manifold tightened down and then realize it is touching still (each time takes 2-3 hours to take off, grind, and replace, all very awkward and frustating, I think I did it like 4 times). Also, get the intake manifold stud kit from Turbophil as the kit includes at this time near worthless allen wrench bolts (there isnt enough room for a allen wrench!) Finally, hopefully there will be more complete directions then. A lot of stuff is just not in the current edition and you have to guess or wait for help from friends or forum (where/how to mount: air intake to rollover bar support, fuse boxes, dipstick, part of vapor return to throttle body; intake solenoid connections not discussed; VVTi rotation explanation inadequate; very rarely size of tool needed discussed; not nearly enough pictures; belt placement instructions absent). Make sure you take the clam off, only the insane and very experienced leave it on.
I havent turned mine on yet(just found out Im missing another part) but the kit does look professional. We are just early adopters and likely in a month the instructions will be vastly improved with the above changes (I would hope) and minimal additional hardware as above.
The customer support is top notch.
 

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P.S. Moving the alternator was trivial (5 easy minutes). Moving the charcoal box was harder as took a little while to figure out how to arrange all the hoses in that location to make it fit, but still maybe only half an hour. Neither of these things were a big deal.
 
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