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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Reviving an old thread, my alarm is still causing me headaches. Has anyone tried unplugging this to confirm complete disablement, immobilizer in particular?
I unplugged the Cobra and Scottyb was right, no more need for the key fobs(hate them, sold them). I'm still trying to figure out how to bypass the immobiliser(behind the driver in the interior side pod) just so I can toss it in the trash, it's heavy and useless at this point.
I even removed the wiring that leads to the Cobra, all the way back to the main wiring harness. I am more than a bit posessed about weight elimination:huh:
 

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I unplugged the Cobra and Scottyb was right, no more need for the key fobs(hate them, sold them). I'm still trying to figure out how to bypass the immobiliser(behind the driver in the interior side pod) just so I can toss it in the trash, it's heavy and useless at this point.
I even removed the wiring that leads to the Cobra, all the way back to the main wiring harness. I am more than a bit posessed about weight elimination:huh:
Perry, just so I'm clear, unplugging the Cobra will disable the immobilizer? I would have thought with that unplugged, it would allow you to remove the immobilizer box since it's no longer functional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Perry, just so I'm clear, unplugging the Cobra will disable the immobilizer? I would have thought with that unplugged, it would allow you to remove the immobilizer box since it's no longer functional.
Yes it disables the immobiliser but removing the immobiliser breaks the fuel pump and ignition circuit and I have yet to get though that. I have the schematic to work through it but have not had the time to get it done..You have to do two bypases. I am planning to do it tomorrow on my day off. I'll keep you posted..
I'll be ferreting out more weight as I go.
 

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I unplugged the connector - blinking light extinguishes, fuel pump clicks on key turn, but start button does nothing. I read in other threads about the connector having 12 pins, clearly mine has many more (see pic). I also tried shorting the last two pins on each end (upper to lower) and that promptly blew a 10A fuse...so I'm done with that idea. Does your schematic look anything like my connector?

This was an early '05 car, and I have to think my Cobra is a bastard among the other children. It does not respond to menu changes like everyone else's does. I know there are some others out there with me who have constant problems, especially frequent re-syncing of the fobs, false alarms, etc. It's driving me nuts :wallbang:
 

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Your error is that you are dealing with the alarm plug. The plug you are showing with 17 wires is apparently from the 8185 alarm module not the immobilizer. The immobilizer has 14 pins and 9 wires and it is the end pins that have to be spliced together.
 

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I unplugged the connector - blinking light extinguishes, fuel pump clicks on key turn, but start button does nothing. I read in other threads about the connector having 12 pins, clearly mine has many more (see pic). I also tried shorting the last two pins on each end (upper to lower) and that promptly blew a 10A fuse...so I'm done with that idea. Does your schematic look anything like my connector?

This was an early '05 car, and I have to think my Cobra is a bastard among the other children. It does not respond to menu changes like everyone else's does. I know there are some others out there with me who have constant problems, especially frequent re-syncing of the fobs, false alarms, etc. It's driving me nuts :wallbang:
havent we been over this about 5 times now... anyway see that light blue wire... thats the pin location for the immobilizer. you jump that wire to ground and you are good to go. (ground is the black wire at the end of the connector across from the green.)
 

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havent we been over this about 5 times now... anyway see that light blue wire... thats the pin location for the immobilizer. you jump that wire to ground and you are good to go. (ground is the black wire at the end of the connector across from the green.)
The only thing is that if they want to totally remove the immobilizer then the wires that go to the Fuel Pump & Starter Circuit have to be spliced together. These wires at the immobilizr plug connector are at pins 1 & 6 (fuel pump) & 5 & 12 (Starter) at each end of the plug. Do you agree rob13572468?
 

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havent we been over this about 5 times now... anyway see that light blue wire... thats the pin location for the immobilizer. you jump that wire to ground and you are good to go. (ground is the black wire at the end of the connector across from the green.)
If you'll look at the magnitude of other alarm threads, shorting the blue to ground doesn't work will all early systems, including mine...I tried that months ago.

Anyone out there with hands-on experience with this early version?
 

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Pull the plug from the immobilizer, find those wires and splice the 2 pair together. If you look at the wiring diagram, sheet 4, it shows the connections and hopefully when you pull the plug it looks just like the diagram. Lotus in their wisdom made all of the wires the same color (black). So, check the orientaton of the wires on the plug with the diagram to confirm which wire each is.
 

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The only thing is that if they want to totally remove the immobilizer then the wires that go to the Fuel Pump & Starter Circuit have to be spliced together. These wires at the immobilizr plug connector are at pins 1 & 6 (fuel pump) & 5 & 12 (Starter) at each end of the plug. Do you agree rob13572468?
Yes, i absolutely agree. in fact i posted both methods 3 years ago.
 

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If you'll look at the magnitude of other alarm threads, shorting the blue to ground doesn't work will all early systems, including mine...I tried that months ago.

Anyone out there with hands-on experience with this early version?
Its actually not the blue but the blackwire that sits in the same pin. If you have one of the ones that does not work by grounding it then you have one of the few that needs 12V to that wire instead.
 

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After a couple years of intermittent problems/false alarms, (fob re-syncing being the worst and sometimes daily), I locked myself in the garage last night on a mission. Armed with hand tools and a six pack, I sent seats, dashboard components, and panels flying. After almost 3 hours of troubleshooting and metering, I found a deep pinch/cut in a wire running from the immobilizer to the control unit. It was pinched so hard, that only 3 or 4 strands of copper were still connected, all but cut in half. Anyway, repairs made and I tested the hell out of it, all is well. :nanner2:
 

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After a couple years of intermittent problems/false alarms, (fob re-syncing being the worst and sometimes daily), I locked myself in the garage last night on a mission. Armed with hand tools and a six pack, I sent seats, dashboard components, and panels flying. After almost 3 hours of troubleshooting and metering, I found a deep pinch/cut in a wire running from the immobilizer to the control unit. It was pinched so hard, that only 3 or 4 strands of copper were still connected, all but cut in half. Anyway, repairs made and I tested the hell out of it, all is well. :nanner2:
Dave, congrats, don't you feel good when you actually find an obscure problem...I think it was the beer that provided inspiration :crazyeyes:panic:rotfl
 
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