The Lotus Cars Community banner

41 - 50 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
Have Rob at Dietsch Works set it up for you. I bought my 2006 in Phoenix and drove it back to the bay area. I was concerned about the 'twitchiness' at speed during the drive...Rob worked his magic and set mine up for 'aggressive street driving' (and found some bushings that were installed incorrectly at the factory, which were fixed under warranty)...now it is just about perfect...plenty of communication from the steering but the car ALWAYS feels settled and in control...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
bryanf650, can you tell me what they aligned it to? Unfortunately I can't drive my car 3000 miles to get it aligned, but I'd like to get mine done. Were you sitting in the car when they did it?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,637 Posts
Standard settings for the street aren't twitchy. Higher camber settings can be twitchy.
Front camber -0.45
front caster 3.0
front toe 0.0
Rear camber -1.6
rear toe 0.2
(these are per-wheel settings, not total for front or rear).

Many Elises came from the factory with their adjustments way out of wack.
Some Lotus owners have dialed in a lot of front camber for responsiveness at the track. Great for cornering, less good for high speed stability.
Some Elises came from the factory with the A arm bushings pushed in from the same direction, and with time, they start to walk. The thick part of the bushing should be outward (pushed in from the outside of the A arm). The extra "wiggle" makes for less stable A arm positioning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
bryanf650, can you tell me what they aligned it to? Unfortunately I can't drive my car 3000 miles to get it aligned, but I'd like to get mine done. Were you sitting in the car when they did it?
Unfortunately I can't seem to find the sheet that Rob gave me when I had him do it. I wasn't sitting in the car at the time. You might want to give Rob a call and ask for recommendations. He's a great guy, always willing to help. I know he dialed in more front camber than stock, but other than that I don't recall.

Sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Dave,(and all sorry for the late reply)

it seems as there is a 50/50 split on opinions whether the car should feel twitchy with more camber or not.

the car does not feel as if the wheel is going to pull itself out of my hands, just unsettled. i can take my hands off the wheel for about 3 seconds...but on the 4th second i am sure i would be replacing a front clamshell.
No i was not in the car when it got aligned, but i asked them to make sure someone was.

i suspect the shop might not have placed any driver side wieght, and i am not 100% confident in their alignment either. however it seems much the same with only me or 2 people in the car.

So, i guess what i need to do is with the baseline from the alignment in hand, spend a Sunday playing with the toe and, see what happens!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,297 Posts
Stock alignment is nominal at best for street use. Designed for terminal understeer. If shims were pulled w/o alignment, toe is off. If toe is off you'll have instability. Look up what most of us track.street guys run for alignemtnand if it is a street car, keep the numbers on the minimal side. You'll be amazed at how much better it is. Those 175/55R16s won't understeer anymore!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
Does removing the camber shims toe the car in or out? I pulled them last night and I can't believe the difference in stability mid-turn. I really like it. I was expecting it to feel much less stable on the higher speed stuff due to the contact patch being reduced (moved in) but it doesn't seem to have changed. It has always felt twitchy all the time and very floaty at speed, indicating that both front and rear were toed out. If anything it feels less twitchy which indicates it has been toed in from removing the camber shims. Does this sound reasonable or have I just not driven enough since last night and I'm making this up?

I am getting the car aligned professionally (wish I could do it myself) next week if the weather is good enough. I am hoping to go to the following specs for daily driving + autox.

FL -1.5deg camber FR -1.5deg camber
3deg caster 3deg caster
0 Toe 0 Toe

RL -2deg camber RR -2deg camber
0.11 Toe (in) 0.11 Toe (in)

Does that sound a fair starting point? I have no idea where the car is now since I bought it used with 13k miles. But from what I read, it feels like it's all over the map. Hoping to iron it out a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,158 Posts
There have been threads on this forum where people have actually checked whether pulling shims affects toe, so you can dig around. However, I believe if you just removed a few shims from the front, toe should not have changed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
So,
I spent an afternoon playing with the Toe adjustment. Wow very sensitive to changes!
i think i have it allot closer, but as soon as i put enough toe "in" to help the stability, you can really notice the understeer starts.
So.
looks like another afternoon of playing around with the adjustments will be a compromise of proper cornering and stability. all said and done i am guessing my end results will be just about "0" toe with the front shims fully out.
 
41 - 50 of 50 Posts
Top