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Discussion Starter #1
As some of our cars will arrive in the dead of winter, I was hoping to tap into some of your knowledge as to properly storing a car. Should you take the air out of the tires and put the car on blocks? What are the benefits of temperature controlled storage? Recommendations of places to actually store the car? Thanks!
 

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CLS2Elise said:
Should you take the air out of the tires and put the car on blocks?
No, and NEVER .

If anything, you add extra air to the tires, and never store a car "on blocks". Lifting the car and letting the suspension droop for long periods of time is very bad on the suspension bushings.
 

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Well, personally, I think it would be best to make sure it gets driven at least once a week, to keep everything going well. And since you're in New Jersey. I'll vollunteer my services and my garage. My current car can live outside, and I'll make sure to drive your car once a week :D :D and I'll keep the air pressure set properly, and the oil in good condition. I'll even wax it for you. And I won't even charge you for it :clap:
 

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I've never stored a car, but some tips I've heard:

- Fill gas tank.
- Change the oil.
- Remove battery from car and hook up to trickle charger or battery maintainer.

Rodents can be a concern with stored cars. Maybe place plenty of mousetraps around the garage just in case?

What Tim said about the tires, I've heard that several times before and I think that's good advice. Yes, the tires will probably flatspot, but supposedly the flat spots will work their way out with just a little driving.
 

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Can I assume we are talking short term storage here, as in a few months until the snow/ice thaws?? HIBERNATION?

If so, nothing major needs to be done to prep the car.

* Full tank of gas helps, but isn't neccessary, but put some gas additive/cleaner in the tank to absorb the moisture before you take it out of hibernation.

* Change oil in the spring before any hard trips or drives

* Check all fluids before starting

* Top off all fluids before hibernating

* If possible start occassionally during the winter and get it hot, pump brakes. Open heater when running & hot (to circulate coolant thru the heater matrix). Also run A/C during these warm-up sessions.

* As suggested a trickle charge is good. You don't want the battery to go flat (will significantly shorten battery life).

That's pretty much it... Tires may get a flat spot that will go away within a few miles of driving.

Not a biggie...

Kiyoshi
 

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Discussion Starter #6
khamai said:
Can I assume we are talking short term storage here, as in a few months until the snow/ice thaws??
Yes. I should have put this in the original post. This is just for the winter months. Maybe it's time to move to San Diego where I won't have this problem :D Thanks for everyones replies!
 

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khamai said:
Can I assume we are talking short term storage here, as in a few months until the snow/ice thaws?? HIBERNATION?

If so, nothing major needs to be done to prep the car.

* Full tank of gas helps, but isn't neccessary, but put some gas additive/cleaner in the tank to absorb the moisture before you take it out of hibernation.

* Change oil in the spring before any hard trips or drives

* Check all fluids before starting

* Top off all fluids before hibernating

* If possible start occassionally during the winter and get it hot, pump brakes. Open heater when running & hot (to circulate coolant thru the heater matrix). Also run A/C during these warm-up sessions.

* As suggested a trickle charge is good. You don't want the battery to go flat (will significantly shorten battery life).

That's pretty much it... Tires may get a flat spot that will go away within a few miles of driving.

Not a biggie...

Kiyoshi
Got a battery maintainer. They suggest you connect one of the alligator clips to the grounded terminal via the engine block and the other directly to the terminal post.

Does anyone know which terminal post is grounded in the Liz? Why don't they say to connect both clips directly to the post?
 

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Derek said:
Does anyone know which terminal post is grounded in the Liz? Why don't they say to connect both clips directly to the post?
I suspect it's for the same reason that you're supposed to jump the car with the ground wire grounded to the car, not the battery. If there's a short, you've just welded a connector to the car's frame instead of blowing up a lead-acid battery in your face. (I've welded a connector before - it's a pretty violent action).
 
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