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Realtor
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Backstory: I just got my car back from getting a bad ground fixed that was causing my interior light to not function.

I drove the car about 4 times after getting it back. Then one day I went to drive it and it wouldn’t turn on. The weird part is that I can out the key in the ignition, turn to on, hit the immobilizer and everything goes as it should. When I try to turn it over, the dash goes and stays black, I can hear a tick from what sounds like a relay behind my seat and a louder tick from the engine bay.

My battery is fairly old so even though I have power, headlights are at full brightness etc, I thought that maybe the battery is dead. Tried to jump it, but the exact same thing happens with the screen going black and the ticking noises. Then I checked any associated fuses And they were all ok.

Has anyone experienced this or does anyone have any insight for what I should try next?
 

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Premium Member
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1,512 Posts
Sounds like the starter brushes have seized or failed. Try thumping the starter housing with a mallet and then try starting. If that works, you can get a starter brush holder for about $9-20 on ebay. Search for Hitachi 69-8118.

If you're in a pinch and can't wait, you can also get a complete reman'd starter for a 95-03 Nissan Maxima. The brush holder, cap, bolts, and armature are all the same.
 

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Administrator
2010 Exige S260
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2,214 Posts
Where are you located? If you are not far away I can help.
 

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My vote is bad battery. If there's a bad cell or short in the battery even jumping may not help.

You mention the battery is "old", if anything over 3 years, it's suspect.

Good luck!
Kiyoshi
 

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$3(uR3 u$3r
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432 Posts
Hi.

Sounds like a bad battery. Remove it and have it tested. Very similar to what happened to me.

Hope you get it solved.

-Alex
 

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Premium Member
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166 Posts
If battery is old, I'd certainly start with a new battery. If that's not it, I'd go to the starter/solenoid next.
 

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Administrator
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Like others said pull battery get it load tested.
 

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I am going to jump on with the new battery suggestions. Jump starting is not the same as a new fresh battery. Most newer jumper cables are junk.

New batteries fix these issues 95% of the time.
 

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Realtor
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all of the quick replies! I’ll start with the battery as it’s at least 3 years old, maybe more, but I haven’t changed it since I bought the car 3 years ago. If that doesn’t do the trick, I’ll move on to the starter. Thanks for the advice and insights on what to do if it is in fact the starter.
 

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2010 Exige S260
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2,214 Posts
Did you get a chance to install a new battery?
 

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Most likely it’s the battery. Both the Elise and Evora do weird things when they have low voltage and can make it seem like the battery is fine.
 
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519 Posts
Most likely the battery as mentioned.
But another one ive had that causes similar issues (dash dieing, relays and starter clicking but still having power to run lights) is a loose or corroded negative terminal or the cable clamping to the terminal.

Just something to check.
 

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2020 Evora GT in Formula Red, coordinated black+red interior, windowed engine hatch
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446 Posts
But another one ive had that causes similar issues (dash dieing, relays and starter clicking but still having power to run lights) is a loose or corroded negative terminal or the cable clamping to the terminal.
I'll definitely second this, and have a story to back it up. In addition to my Evora GT, I have a Case 580SK loader-backhoe. One day it wouldn't start with exactly the same symptoms as the OP described. I too figured the several-years-old battery had run its course so I bought and installed a new one. No improvement. So I figured one of the many relays had given out in this 20+ year old machine. One by one I replaced relays, no improvement. All electricals worked fine, lights bright, but engine would not crank. Finally I stopped thinking like a "just replace parts" guy and switched back into Engineer mode, and got out some test equipment. I found that the starting voltage was only a couple of volts! Tracing around, I discovered exactly what you described: Corrosion where the negative battery braid bolted to the frame. There were several ohms of resistance at that junction, which doesn't matter at low amperages but at cranking amperages caused a huge voltage drop. Some time with a Dremel tool, and a liberal application of petroleum jelly afterwards, completely solved the problem and it's started and run great ever since.
 
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