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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

So I purchased the part bundle for the CF hatch and front access panel. The only thing I can't find good information on is how to mount the prop rod on the S1 Evora. I'm guessing I will have to drill through which I'm fine with. I'm just trying to see if there's an illustration with measurements for both the passthrough and the retaining clip. If there isn't, would someone be so kind as to take some measurements?

I really want this to look as OEM as possible.

Thanks!
-Ryan
 

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2013 Lotus Evora S- Carbon Grey SOLD 2020 Lotus Evora GT Olive Green
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Hi everyone,

So I purchased the part bundle for the CF hatch and front access panel. The only thing I can't find good information on is how to mount the prop rod on the S1 Evora. I'm guessing I will have to drill through which I'm fine with. I'm just trying to see if there's an illustration with measurements for both the passthrough and the retaining clip. If there isn't, would someone be so kind as to take some measurements?

I really want this to look as OEM as possible.

Thanks!
-Ryan
You can look and measure on my GT if you want too!
 

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Check out page 247 of the "What did you do to your Evora today" thread. A member there has a good high res pic of the hatch open with the prop rod, so you could probably eye-ball it using just that pic.


My CF hatch comes in on Friday, so i'll be on the lookout for a better answer than eye-balling it... But if it comes down to it, I feel comfortable going that route if I have to. Did you buy all the extra small hardware or plan to re-use from your existing hatch? All I bought was the 3rd brake light.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You can look and measure on my GT if you want too!
That's true! Hopefully I can make the upcoming drive and we could do it then. Where in WI are you again? I'm in Madison.

Check out page 247 of the "What did you do to your Evora today" thread. A member there has a good high res pic of the hatch open with the prop rod, so you could probably eye-ball it using just that pic.


My CF hatch comes in on Friday, so i'll be on the lookout for a better answer than eye-balling it... But if it comes down to it, I feel comfortable going that route if I have to. Did you buy all the extra small hardware or plan to re-use from your existing hatch? All I bought was the 3rd brake light.
I bought a bunch of extras, I was originally going to go the HethelSport replica route so I bought a few more pieces. So far what I've noticed that you need that's not included in the kit is the 3rd brake light and bolts for it (M5x16 or M5x12 seems to work too). I also bought an extra latch so I don't have to deal with swapping that over. I don't like the idea of cutting the old connector off the original hatch so I tracked down all the components required to make one, plus the specialized crimper. I might make a post about that with part numbers and where to source if people are interested. The only part I couldn't source were the rubber hatch bumper stops. Easy enough to swap of course.
 

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Wait which connector are you talking about? Also, I've read that before about the latch... Is it hard to swap over from the old hatch?

So, the kit actually comes with all the parts required to swap over, minus the 3rd brake light and bumper stops? That's what Dino at Gator thought as well which is why I also bought the light and the bolts for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The wiring harness connector from the new hatch doesn't fit the old wiring harness. I sourced all the parts to make one rather than cut it off the OEM hatch.
 

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The actual mounting points for the retaining clip, and to a lesser extent the prop rod, are somewhat arbitrary within a narrow range but this is what the rod end should look like when it's done. This is the more important one to get right. I will take the measurements of mine today for both the rod and the retaining clip, and post them here. Below is a photo I took months ago to guide my installation. My modeling was taken from a GT, not a 400, but the bulkheads are identical so no worries there. The precise place you drill for the two points is not ultra critical but we all want it placed as well as it can be done. You will have a bit less "lift" of the gate when it's all finished. That doesn't seem to alter any access although you may miss the total freedom of movement you had before the rod was installed. To be honest, it's really not an issue for me.

It would be nice if they would provide a template but perhaps their opinion is that it's not that important as long as you get within a few millimeters of where the bits want to go? I suspect if you measure three cars, you'll get three minor variations. Or maybe nobody thought a template was necessary, which it isn't although it would be nice to know with certainty exactly where to drill. I wonder if there is a way we can make one or at least a verbal guide for future owners? I'll look into that as well as posting photos with a bit more surrounding context. I'll get that done tonight.

1268450
 

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There is a slight offset to the left in this photo because the zero calibration of the rule doesn't start at the end. If you measure 11" from where your rule touches you will have the lateral placement of the hole center. The question you'll probably have is where exactly to place the rule on the weather strip since there isn't an actual corner on the boot, it being rounded off. Use my photo and its context to eyeball the location. Don't fret if you're off by a mill or two in either direction.

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Below is the vertical orientation of the prop rod hole taken from the floor of the boot. A bit hard to see in my pic but it is exactly 13"to the hole center from the base of the battery cover.

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For lateral placement of the clip, measure 4" over from the edge of the uncompressed weather strip with your straight edge defining the intersection point on the weather strip. You have the same challenge on this side regarding where exactly on the weatherstrip to call the corner but if you hold the straight edge as flat and parallel as possible to the bulkhead, the rule will give you the proper place to drill. This doesn't require millimeter accurate precision.
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And finally, the vertical position of the hole center is shown below at 11" from the hole center to the floor of the trunk.

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Clearly, I need to vacuum the carpeting in there! I hope this has helped but I do understand that the irregular shape of things back there makes precise starting for the horizontal measurement points a bit confusing to define.

My fear was that I might inadvertently puncture something mounted to the bulkhead but there's not much mounted back there that you can hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks lotusquacious! That really helps. I figured it didn't have to be dead accurate. Being low or left a bit would just mean it doesn't keep the hatch open as high. I'll probably err on the side of a little high and to the right of anything. The tough thing is not having a good reference point to try and measure from. I am considering making a template if all goes well and posting it up.

And where the clip goes will ultimately be at least partially determined by where you mounted the prop rod.

I appreciate you taking the time to get pictures and post them up.
 
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