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Discussion Starter #1
I have a GRP front lip spoiler that I haven’t attempted to install yet. I want to avoid drilling the underside of the front clam.

Was wondering if there is a good way to secure the front lip spoiler using 3M VHB tape or perhaps silicone (which I believe is how SirLotus’ clam protectors are adhered). Was thinking to use VHB tape in conjunction to the front bolts that hold the undertray. So the front part of the lip would be held by the VHB tape, and the rear part would be held by VHB tape and the existing bolts.

Description from 3M:
3M VHB Tape provides the convenience and simplicity of a tape fastener and are ideal for use in many interior and exterior bonding applications. In many situations, they can replace rivets, spot welds, liquid adhesives and other permanent fasteners. Recommended to use 4 square inches of 5952 VHB tape for every 1 pound of load; although rough surfaces may require additional tape. These VHB tapes are made with acrylic foam which is viscoelastic in nature. This gives the foam energy absorbing and stress relaxing properties which provides these tapes with their unique characteristics. The acrylic chemistry provides outstanding durability performance and the tapes have excellent durability and excellent solvent and moisture resistance. See http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Brands/3M-VHB-Tape/ for videos showcasing the properties of VHB tape. Made in the U.S.

Sounds like some strong stuff...but who knows...
 

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German Reimport
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I too was in your position about drilling into the clam. I held off 5yrs just cause I couldn’t do it as well but Greg’s lip looked just too good. I finally bit the bullet and installed it this past weekend and went with the bolts and fender washers everyone has recommended. I did buy slightly larger hardware and washers for piece of mind. As said, it really isn’t that bad with the right tools of course. Went so much smoother and looks sooo much better. I had thought about adhesives/silicone but just couldn’t trust it. And if you were to damage your lip, I can’t imagine the trouble of removing/replacing it. Would be a PIA. I can’t believe I held off this long for it lol.

IMG_7797.jpg


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Looks owesome! Install it with hardware. I had a lip on my porsche that I used silicone and 3M tape......120 MPH later and the lip flew away.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just dont want to drill into the clam. Doesn’t make it a fully reversible cosmetic mod. Thinking long term value of the car. Wont be “all original”
 

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I would not suggest using 3m tap on the lips we sell. They dont pull a large amount of downforce but it is enough to rip that right off if tape or glue is the only thing holding it on.
The bolt locations would all be out of sight and if you ever removed the lip down the road you can always plug the holes with the little black plastic push pins ---that would look almost oem.
Just an idea for you!
 

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As others have stated, no, do not use tape. It will not hold and the lip will bend down at speed. You would most likely damage the lip from having it bend down and smacking the road. Ask me how I know :).....forgot to put thread locker on the bolts, DOH! I got too excited and took her for a test drive and a few bolts on one side vibrated loose.

You will need to drill, install large washers with the bolts under the clam near the lead edge. I used two large washers on each bolt, sandwiched the lip and clam with a washer on top and bottom. Also be mindful where you drill, if you are still running dual oil coolers the line that connects them does run along there on the inside. You will see it when you remove the front under tray to get a good visual of where you will be drilling.
 
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I just dont want to drill into the clam. Doesn’t make it a fully reversible cosmetic mod. Thinking long term value of the car. Wont be “all original”
From the sounds of it, you pretty much have your mind set against the recommended install. You can definitely try the adhesives/silicones you are looking at, but it would be at your risk. You never know, it might actually work for the way you drive the car. If I recall, the issue is that it does not sit super flush underneath the clam and even further off the clam closer to the front. That's where I can see the adhesives wearing off eventually. As others have mentioned tho, adhesives only worked to a certain point and finally ripped off. Those lips aren't the cheapest to replace. Anyways, good luck with your decision. Hope it works out for you.

Gabe
 

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IF the prep is sufficient, adhesives can do wonders. (BIG IF because it can be hard to do.)
Removing the splitter for the purist O.E. look would also be really tricky. Don’t even get me started about removing silicone residue. It can be done, but is so much more difficult than you think.
I’m a big believer in adhesives, but I’d use well nuts. Anyone else?


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IF the prep is sufficient, adhesives can do wonders. (BIG IF because it can be hard to do.)
Removing the splitter for the purist O.E. look would also be really tricky. Don’t even get me started about removing silicone residue. It can be done, but is so much more difficult than you think.
I’m a big believer in adhesives, but I’d use well nuts. Anyone else?


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I used some well nuts to reattach the cargo netting in the boot of my Evora. :) The fiber glass you are drilling thru is thin and is not thick like the other parts of the clam. If it is a well nut that has a large collar on it acting like a 1" washer...then I could see them perhaps working. It would also need to be metal, I would think vs the typical rubber/metal well nut.

However 95% I'm sure just go the nut/bolt/washer route.
 

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It is even less fun when the splitter wedges itself under your front tires :rolleyes:
 

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It really doesn't do any good to ask for advice if you're not going to listen to the advice given.

The splitter coming off would worry me, but the damage it could do to your car and/or others could be catastrophic. It really isn't worth it.

As others have mentioned, you'll do more damage to your car trying to remove the splitter affixed with the adhesives than with fasteners. It's your car. Do what you want.

San
 

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It really doesn't do any good to ask for advice if you're not going to listen to the advice given.

The splitter coming off would worry me, but the damage it could do to your car and/or others could be catastrophic. It really isn't worth it.

As others have mentioned, you'll do more damage to your car trying to remove the splitter affixed with the adhesives than with fasteners. It's your car. Do what you want.

San
I'll chime in here even though the OP seemed to have decided to go with nuts and bolts.

I installed my splitter 11 years ago and in the end, used a hard fastening system. I tried an adhesive tape at first. The only reason I thought this may work was there was NO instructions or hardware with the splitter. (which I believe was Force Five at the time.)

The damn thing came loose and dangled down touching the road. This occurred at speed (roughly 50-60 MPH) Luckily this occurred "gradually" meaning I heard a flapping scrape and I immediately slowed down in which the downforce exerted decreased and the splitter returned to its position...More or less.

With the only damage being the forward edge of the CF splitter (which I took care of) I devised a method of attachment so I could remove easily if need be.

I drilled holes int he thin material of the clam. This did not bother me as its underneath out of sight. Then I inserted threaded inserts with flanges that had tiny holes for material pass through. The material in question is marine epoxy that was pressed into the hole then the insert is ...Well, inserted. The epoxy, of course, squeezed between the flange on the insert and the clam material. I then chased the thread just in case, wiped down the epoxy overflow area while it set with a solvent for cleanliness and let dry.

Once dry I installed the splitter. I think I had 8 total. 3 per side in a triangle pattern and two centerlined. I have pictures but they are stored on a Mac G3 silver door or my 2009 MBP (yes I did this THAT long ago) In any case it was clean and has been strong enough to withstand 120 plus MPH...last summer for instance...>:)

I also used a foam medium density gasket between the splitter and clam to take up the gap and avoid NVH and abrasion on the splitter. I installed the gasket (1/4 black foam) prior to test fitting pre-drilling the holes. I clamped the splitter at the rearward edge on both sides (wheel arch) once I approved of the amount of compression of the gasket. The drilled the holes. Removed splitter and performed the above.

Hope this helps in some way.
 

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