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shay2nak
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funny how some cars' SC oil looks great and the others, not so much. I haven't done any track days, but I haven't babied the car either.
 

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I am going to pull the supercharger out and try to tighten or even change the gasket between the manifold and the head. ( as I can't find why my idle drop slow, and some suggest that is the comment leak there )

Will change the supercharge oil at the same time.

Read the thread and confused about brand and ml :(

Please advise which oil and quantity?
 

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shay2nak
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I am going to pull the supercharger out and try to tighten or even change the gasket between the manifold and the head. ( as I can't find why my idle drop slow, and some suggest that is the comment leak there )

Will change the supercharge oil at the same time.

Read the thread and confused about brand and ml :(

Please advise which oil and quantity?
the AC Delco one that's pictured. one bottle is enough. Just mind how much you remove from the SC if you need to change the oil in the first place.
 

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the AC Delco one that's pictured. one bottle is enough. Just mind how much you remove from the SC if you need to change the oil in the first place.
Shay hit a valid point. Measure what you take out and put that much back in at minimum. At least that way you know you replaced exactly what you took out. I found it to be an extremely easy job. I bought 2 different syringe and tubing kits to ensure Iggot out as much as I could. And now all my buddies have the tools available to borrow at any time.
 

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Yeah HKFEVER...

That inspired my comment in your other thread. Once you have the SC off there is other maintenance you can do...

Trust me it's easy once you have it off. Just crack it open. It comes apart in 3 pieces. Nose, Rotors, case.

You can clean everything up. Use anerobic gasket on the nose when you close it back together. Then add oil

You could re grease the needle bearings, but I warn you I did that and the next time I took my SC apart I saw Blue grease all over the lobes.

I went a step beyond and did some mild port and polish work on the SC inlet.

Be real meticulous when you join all the junctures together. I went with a phenolic gasket on intake manifold. I used oem gaskets on either side smothered with good quality gasket dressing/ sealant.

I hope it solves your problem, but if not your SC will whir happier.
 

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Yeah HKFEVER...

That inspired my comment in your other thread. Once you have the SC off there is other maintenance you can do...

Trust me it's easy once you have it off. Just crack it open. It comes apart in 3 pieces. Nose, Rotors, case.

You can clean everything up. Use anerobic gasket on the nose when you close it back together. Then add oil

You could re grease the needle bearings, but I warn you I did that and the next time I took my SC apart I saw Blue grease all over the lobes.

I went a step beyond and did some mild port and polish work on the SC inlet.

Be real meticulous when you join all the junctures together. I went with a phenolic gasket on intake manifold. I used oem gaskets on either side smothered with good quality gasket dressing/ sealant.

I hope it solves your problem, but if not your SC will whir happier.
Put back everything, but issue still there, just get better :(
 

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It never sounded like a manifold leak to me. Having had that the idle will remain high and not fall off as you describe. I had this issue but with my SSC PPI ECU which I managed to tune out. Not sure with your OEM setup.
 

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Anybody find that the idel become unstable and the power isdecrease after change the oil?
I meet this problem yeaterday.....
 

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I'll add that I just changed my supercharger oil ('07 Exige S). The car has 30,000 miles and I'm glad I didn't wait longer.

I was able to extract 100ml. The first 10 minutes was frustrating with my syringe hose not finding any oil. Angled the hose toward the rear of the car, while inserting through the access hole (T30 torx bolt), and hit the black gold. The extracted oil was clear, but dark amber in color. Compare that to the clean AC Delco supercharger oil (also pictured).

I idled the car and did not really detect any difference, but I also don't notice a difference when I change my motor oil. I couldn't imagine waiting for 80,000 miles before doing this.
 

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So glad someone bumped this thread as not something I ever thought about. I only have 2800 miles on my car but curious what my oil looks like.
 

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As mentioned before: Be sure not to overfill, refill the amount you remove to be safe. (unless the thing is near empty)
It should hold 120ml I believe.

If overfilled the oil can melt the coupler causing excessive heat and gas/vapor build up that results in oil pushing
past the snout seals. This would likely only occur under extreme conditions like on a race track under high load for
atlas 20-30 minutes of driving on a very hot day. Ask me how I know.....The result is the sound of marbles in a tin can.
The lobes will not impact each other but the coupler and seals will need to be replaced.

I removed the snout to find this: first picture

And here is what the snout seal looked like: second picture
The seal ballooned out and pushed against the backside of the
pulley causing a little bit of rubbing. That is what the removed
material on the seal was caused by.... (this is my theory, as a layman of course)

I drove the car home from the track without incident though. I replaced the supercharger. Expensive $9 mistake.
 

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It never sounded like a manifold leak to me. Having had that the idle will remain high and not fall off as you describe. I had this issue but with my SSC PPI ECU which I managed to tune out. Not sure with your OEM setup.
I may disagree with this one. Vaccum leaks on my setup caused the same situation...maybe anyway. I had occasional high idle codes and around 1000-1200 rpm. I have changed everything....only thing left is the manifold gasket. If you go down this route, torque the sc to manifold bolts carefully from the center out....they are EASY to strip.

The gasket is a metal type and I do not know if we should use any gasket sealant or not.
 

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Sold my Exige S
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Unless you overdrive with a small pulley, have high miles (75,000+), or do serious track abuse, just let sleeping dogs lie.

The SC coupler is more likely to need replacing long before the SC oil breaks down, so why not just change the oil when that unpleasant task comes around?

The color of the oil means nothing thanks to additives.

JGalt, unless you saw metal shavings in that dark amber oil, that looks perfectly fine and is not thick or sticking to the top walls of the syringe.
 
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