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Discussion Starter #1
I just got through upgrading my stock clutch to an ACT HDSS. This process is a pain :eek:! It probably took 15 - 20 hours, although I did do a few small other projects (painted the calipers red, desnorked, changed oil and cleaned air filter). It seemed every step was harder than expected, with assorted 4 letter words peppered in. The biggest problem was stripping one of the larger bolts holding the under tray on. I had to take that piece to a machine shop and get it drilled out.
I just drove it for the first time and quickly noticed 2 things. First off, my breaks are awful. I bled and bled them, and thought there was no air left. I looked at the service manual and number 2 says, "Connect the Lotus Scan tool and select ABS and follow the brake bleeding instructions. Whilst this
automatic process is taking place (with all 4 calliper nipples open), gently cycle the brake pedal up and down whilst keeping the reservoir topped up, to move any air bubbles displaced from the ABS unit down the hydraulic lines. Finish by closing each nipple with the pedal down." I don't have a scan tool. Is this step necessary (I assume it is), if so, can it be done without a scan tool?
The second thing I noticed was this clutch sure grabs quick. I will have to learn to let out the clutch slower for normal driving.
When I get back from Jamiaca :coolnana:, in about 2 months, I plan on getting a VS II :clap:, thus the reason for the clutch upgrade. If anyone is interested in a stock clutch, with around 12,000 miles on it, let me know. You can have it, just pay for shipping!
Later gator.
Rick
 

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First off, my breaks are awful. I bled and bled them, and thought there was no air left. I looked at the service manual and number 2 says, "Connect the Lotus Scan tool and select ABS and follow the brake bleeding instructions. Whilst this
automatic process is taking place (with all 4 calliper nipples open), gently cycle the brake pedal up and down whilst keeping the reservoir topped up, to move any air bubbles displaced from the ABS unit down the hydraulic lines. Finish by closing each nipple with the pedal down." I don't have a scan tool. Is this step necessary (I assume it is), if so, can it be done without a scan tool?
You more likely have air trapped in the calipers. You should invert the front calipers and gently tap them with a rubber mallet to get the trapped air free to escape out of the bleed nipple.

Some have advocated bleeding the brakes, going for a drive with brisk braking to activate the ABS several times, then rebleeding the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
RoadDad,
I'll try that on the front calipers. Do I need to do that on the rear ones also?
I'll also try breaking hard to activate the ABS, but that will have to be done tomorrow.
Thanks.
Rick
 

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RoadDad,
I'll try that on the front calipers. Do I need to do that on the rear ones also?
Nope. Just the fronts.

It could be other things as well, like H2O contaminated brake fluid, etc... but that's (EDIT for clarity: the air in the caliper ;)) a starting point and very likely cause.

Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I painted the calipers, all of the fluid dripped out. I just bought a quart of fluid today, so hopefully water in it is not a problem.
Thanks.
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yea, I bled the clutch. I almost used the whole quart during bleeding the brakes and clutch.
Rick
 

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I plan to tackle this shortly as well. Which undertray did you mean?

Yea, I bled the clutch. I almost used the whole quart during bleeding the brakes and clutch.
Rick
 

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Hmm I wonder if it was the allen bolt that was stripped. I can't think of any others



The under tray with the NACA ducts installed. Directly below drivetrain.
 

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What method did you use to bleed the brakes? Pedal pumping, pressure bleeding, etc? I'm preparing to do mine using the Eezibleed and I'm hoping I won't run into any of these kinds of problems.....
 

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How much of the left rear suspension did you have to remove? Did you remove the exhaust and both driveshafts?



I just got through upgrading my stock clutch to an ACT HDSS. This process is a pain :eek:! It probably took 15 - 20 hours, although I did do a few small other projects (painted the calipers red, desnorked, changed oil and cleaned air filter). It seemed every step was harder than expected, with assorted 4 letter words peppered in. The biggest problem was stripping one of the larger bolts holding the under tray on. I had to take that piece to a machine shop and get it drilled out.
I just drove it for the first time and quickly noticed 2 things. First off, my breaks are awful. I bled and bled them, and thought there was no air left. I looked at the service manual and number 2 says, "Connect the Lotus Scan tool and select ABS and follow the brake bleeding instructions. Whilst this
automatic process is taking place (with all 4 calliper nipples open), gently cycle the brake pedal up and down whilst keeping the reservoir topped up, to move any air bubbles displaced from the ABS unit down the hydraulic lines. Finish by closing each nipple with the pedal down." I don't have a scan tool. Is this step necessary (I assume it is), if so, can it be done without a scan tool?
The second thing I noticed was this clutch sure grabs quick. I will have to learn to let out the clutch slower for normal driving.
When I get back from Jamiaca :coolnana:, in about 2 months, I plan on getting a VS II :clap:, thus the reason for the clutch upgrade. If anyone is interested in a stock clutch, with around 12,000 miles on it, let me know. You can have it, just pay for shipping!
Later gator.
Rick
 

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What method did you use to bleed the brakes? Pedal pumping, pressure bleeding, etc? I'm preparing to do mine using the Eezibleed and I'm hoping I won't run into any of these kinds of problems.....
It shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't let the system completely drain and let air get into the ABS part of the system. If you have to disconnect the brake line from the caliper, cap it, so no fluid can get out, and no air can get in. The normal bleeding with the EZ-Bleed should do just fine.

However, if you get air into the ABS, then you will probably need to take it to a Lotus dealer so that they can bleed it (unless you know someone that has paid several thousand dollars for the Lotus Scan Tool).
 

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With a buddy's help, we changed the brake fluid to blue by adding it to the master cylinder as need and bled the braes one corner at a time until we got blue all around. It took about 30 miuntes and was easy with no issues.

Clutch change is gonna happen here, to, but since I'm swapping trannies anyway, the clutch shouldn't add any time to the job. I hope. Right? :shrug:
 
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