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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there. If you're reading this, thanks in advance. You are awesome, and full of win :]

I noticed while painting the calipers on my front two rotors that there is a hex screw. Once the caliper is off, it looks like you just remove the hex screw and use a hammer to tap the rotor off? I've also read that this hex screw is a piece of crap and it rusts, so people have to drill it out. What have been your personal experiences with that? If I end up having to drill it out, do I absolutely have to have a hex screw to put back in, or am I okay without the hex screw?

For reference (and because pictures help), this is the screw (indicated at the yellow arrow) on the front rotor that I'm talking about. However, just to clarify, I will be changing the rear rotors, not the front ones. I just figured since I'm in this far I might as well paint the calipers while I'm at it.

 

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I've never managed to get a single one of those out without stripping it, it's made from a soft metal that both strips easily and adheres to the rotor easily. Spray some Kroil around it ,wait an hour, try a fresh allen driver that's nice and sharp, and just maybe you'll get it out. Those screws just keep the rotors from rotating away from bolt holes, they're not needed.
 

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Use a drill to drill out the head of the screw. Once you remove the rotor you will have enough of the screw sticking out where you can unscrew it form the hub using pliers. Then stop by your local hardware store and pick up some replacement screws. I wouldn't use allen screws. Use a "+" or "-" head screw. It will be easier to remove in the future.
 

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Ticket Magnet
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Try PB BLaster, soak and use an impact break-away tool to break it free.
Cuss and swear, drill it out, tap, install new stainless screw with anti-seize, wait 2-5 years, ....repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You guys are the bomb dot com. That was extremely helpful and thanks for the tips! :D
 

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They are not necessary. But if you do replace them use stainless srews and anti-sieze. Another tip for removal is to spray with pb blaster, then put a punch inside the allen head hole and give it a couple hard taps. This helps to break them free but please use safety glasses so as not to get the penetrant in your eyes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I was absolutely shocked. I took some PB Blast, sprayed the 4mm hex screw, took a 4mm socket adapter with an extension on the end, tapped it pretty good, and it came right off with no trouble at all.

At this point in the game, I'm just waiting on caliper paint to dry. I learned a very important piece of information while taking off the rotor. I was stuck for about 20 minutes after I removed the 17mm bolt. After that, the directions on Sandsmuseum says it just rocks back on the bottom bolt. As I later found out, that's true if you don't have the E-Brake engaged. If you do have the E-Brake engaged, and you try to rock that back, good luck because its not going anywhere.

And after 20 minutes of banging my head against the wall on it, suddenly, I had this epiphany and was like "check the E-Brake you idiot." Sure enough, that solved the great caliper mystery, and I continued disassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also, I probably totally just jinxed the other hex screw. Since this first one was so easy, I'm probably going to pay for the second one when I get to it! LOL
 

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I've never managed to get a single one of those out without stripping it, it's made from a soft metal that both strips easily and adheres to the rotor easily. Spray some Kroil around it ,wait an hour, try a fresh allen driver that's nice and sharp, and just maybe you'll get it out. Those screws just keep the rotors from rotating away from bolt holes, they're not needed.
When I did my front brakes I just left them off after fighting with them. I do have the stud/lug nut conversion though.
 

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Closer than you think
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I bought a hand impact driver as recommended by other LT folks, along with Kroil... The problem was that I could find no hex head bit combination that would fit into the impact driver.:wallbang:

I ended up drilling them out with a good 1/4 inch bit...:rolleyes:
 
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