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1,473 Posts
I flushed the oem with the MT-90 and synchromesh twice.

I was very pleased the first time I switched.

For convenience I am switching to the Motul 300. I have been satisfied with Motul products for many years.

This might be the acid test for me because going from OEM fluid to MT-90 and GM Synchromesh was astoundingly life affirming...
 

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08 Elise SC
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142 Posts
Sorry to dig up an older post. This is the one that came up in my search. Anyway, I have a little bit of a grind going from second to third. From reading here it seems like changing the trans fluid helps and it looks like MT-90 is the option preferred by most. However, since this thread is pretty old, I'm wondering if there's a change in opinion or this general consensus still stands.

I'm running an '08 SC with about 11,500 miles on it.

Thanks!
 

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Premium Member
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11,572 Posts
I add Power Punch moly additive with excellent results for about 4 yrs now.

How old is the brake fluid in your clutch line?

When shifting into 3rd, does pumping the clutch pedal a few times help?

How long has it been grinding?
 

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Premium Member
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4,667 Posts
MT90 is still a good option, IMHO, as is Motul Gear Oil.

Probably adding some GM Synchromesh to the MT90 mix will help (add some bite;)) with the grinding if it's minor. Sounds like your 3rd gear synchro is on its way out.
 

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2,339 Posts
Three years and 10k miles and so far so good. I feel that the shifting is less notchy especially on cold start. I used mt90 redline.
 

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08 Elise SC
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142 Posts
I add Power Punch moly additive with excellent results for about 4 yrs now.

How old is the brake fluid in your clutch line?

When shifting into 3rd, does pumping the clutch pedal a few times help?

How long has it been grinding?
It's done so since I got it (around 7,000 miles...now at 11,500 miles) but mostly it seems to be an issue when it's cold. It does seem to have gotten worse over time. It gets better as I drive the car, however. After about 20 minutes of driving, it is much better. Overall, it's not terrible, but it does make me want to shift very carefully to avoid it. The car hasn't really seen any hard use. I've never taken it on a track and am not especially hard on it. I'm hoping changing the fluid will help a bit. Part of me wonders if it's low or something and maybe that's the issue. Does changing the brake fluid in the clutch line help?

In the end, I'm hoping it isn't the synchro going, but if that's the case, i'm hoping I can keep it going a few more years before I do anything major.
 

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Premium Member
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11,572 Posts
As Jack said, your synchro may be packing for a trip south.

In meantime,

1. Change the gear oil to Redline and add that Power Punch moly. These will make it significantly smoother, esp when cold.

2. It's likely time to change the brake & clutch fluid, unless you know it was done a year ago.

Yes, fresh fluid can make a difference.

If your master cylinder fluid is dark, that means the water introduced into the system thru age is eating your seals...which is why we change b/f annually.
---

How to Bleed Brakes:

Note that many people disagree with my method, so judge for yourself.

Taught to me by semi-famous Toyota engineer, who built championship winning cars and bikes.

1. Get Sears brake bleed kit (canister, hoses, adaptors for bleed valves) and their hand vacuum pump. Kits there have both components. Inexpensive.

2. Pour a little b/f in canister, hook up hoses and use the tightest adaptor you can.

3. Pump vacuum to 20-25” with bleeder valve closed.

4. Tap caliper with small hammer or similar. This releases the air bubbles clinging to the caliper into the stream. WHATEVER method you use, DON’T skip this step.

5. Open bleed valve.

6. When vacuum is almost (but not completely) gone, close bleed valve.

7. Check level in master cylinder. Do this often.

8. Repeat as needed.

Benefits:

*Never got a firmer pedal using any other method.

*Requires only one person. Your wife/so will thank us both.

*You will not be pushing the piston in m/c into the rough area normally unused, thereby not prematurely wearing that seal. (Clutch m/cs are always used to full range.)

Note: On my Elise, I needn’t even remove the wheels.

Yeah, yeah, people use pressure bleeders, but my racecar mechanic friends don’t like these.

Yeah, I know about speed bleeders.

The above is my opinion. No responsibility for screw ups, injuries, maiming or deaths.

Take it, leave it. OK with me.
 

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`08 Elise-SC-220
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513 Posts
The Redline MT-90 recommended by many Obi-Wans in here is working great for me, (no I haven't changed it twice from the original fluid but I will). However, I was reading an interview with Jay Leno in Popular Mechanics where he cites: "Redline MTL 70W80 GL4" was "like putting liquid syncro's" in the manual transmission of a Plymouth Road Runner that he said had trouble going into all four gears using the recommended Mopar Tranny Oil. He exclaimed the difference was amazing. I'm a die hard Redline product fan now but does anyone see an advantage for our trans-axles with this stuff over the MT-90?
 

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2005 Elise 111R Owner
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75 Posts
Question..can a gear oil change the power of the second cam kicking in at 6400rpm?

Did my first gear oil change today and put in MT-90. I used a funnel with a hose from the top to fill the gear box again and that worked a treat. Not quite 2.5 quarts. I have had the car for less than a year and changed this at 59,000kms. It needed it. The sludge that came out was dark with a metallic swirl in it. Kind of like the T1000 liquid terminator.

I did the engine oil a few wks ago with Mobil1 oil and filter and now the gear oil.

I took her out for a leak test drive and the boost of the second cam threw me back into the seat. Had not been like this for a while.


Sent from my Elephone P7000 using Tapatalk
 
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