Forgot to mention. On adjusting the Spax dampers, turn the adjusting screw all the way counter- (or anti-) clockwise to the stop, then start counting from there. If you just turn it clockwise, it just keeps turning. I think 12-14 turns is max, so I'm starting at 9 turns.
Tonight, I replaced all the coolant hoses in the engine bay. With the body off, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I thought I was going to have to pull the engine out to get to some of those hoses, but they were all accessible. So, another task down. Kudos to anyone who has ever done that with the body on.
Today, I pulled and cleaned the starter. Lucas might have actually done something right, because I don't remember anyone ever complaining about their starter. I disassembled and cleaned the solenoid, and painted part of the starter, and reinstalled that.
I put the right engine mount back in, that I took out a couple days ago, after painting it and replacing the rubber puck. The right side mount doesn't usually fail, and the old one looked fine, but I had one n stock, and the one that was in there was 9 years old.
I also reconnected the oil cooler hoses. Had to grind the nuts down on the cooler side because they wouldn't tighten up properly. Only had to take off 1 mm, so there is no concern of failure.
It's starting to look like a real engine bay again... Next, put the head back on, cams, set the valve clearance, and get the exhaust system back on.
I think there is a typo on my wheels this is the front:
And this is the rear. Woolferace?
Been using Quick-Glo, a product that I saw on Jay Leno's Garage on YouTube. Works great at polishing up stuff. This wheel is looking pretty good after I used some paint stripper on it, but I still have a little soda blasting to do.
Quick-Glo also does a nice job of cleaning up the rusty lug nuts. Not perfect, but a lot better, and good enough for now.
The woolferace wheels are not a typo, The very first Woolferace wheels were made by American Racing for Tony Woolfe, they were available in the late 60's early 70's. Then John Woolfe took over and Woolfe Race wheels were manufactured for JWR (John Woolfe Racing) by a Guest , Keen and Nettlefolds foundry (GKN) in the U.K. Midlands. After John Woolfes death (at Le Mans in 1969) the GKN company took over the sole rights to the wheel design and began to make them as the Wolfrace wheel (with name cast into outer rim along with size)
Are both rears Woolferace? or just one? I have heard of another S1 that had the Woolferace on the rears but I believe these were an aftermarket replacement wheel. The early Woolferace wheels were made for all kinds of vehicles and were popular with the beach buggy crowd as well as Jaguar, Porsche, triumph etc.
Also I would like to see them dynamically balanced so the weights are on the inside, there's enough lead glued on the outside of that one to supply Smith and Wesson for a month
Went another round with the soda blasting after hitting the paint with paint stripper last night. I'm pretty happy with the way its looking. Will save finish polishing until the car is ready to roll. Oh, and I HATE the guys at tire stores that use stick-on weights on the outside of the wheel. I'll remove them and clean under them when I get new tires mounted.
Worked on a lot of other projects this weekend, so only got a limited amount of work on the Lotus done. Got the head installed, as well as the exhaust manifold, Exhaust studes were cleaned, then installed with anti-seize compound. Discovered that you CAN get the original manifold on with just the left engine mount disconnected, but just barely. The engine has to be jacked up from below to the maximum that the mounts will allow. If you still can't get the manifold on the studs, you might try loosen the right engine mount. If that doesn't work, remove the right mount completely (unbolt from either the engine or the frame). You could also choose to not install all of the exhaust studs until you get the manifold in place, but getting a couple of those studs on would probably be difficult. I also wondered if you could install the manifold loosely on the head with them on the bench and slip them both in, but I didn't try that.
MAJOR INSTALLATION NOE if you have the original style manifold. The aft nut on the #1 exhaust port is a REAL pain to get on (in the picture, it's barely visibile on the bottom side of the leftmost runner). Once you get the manifold on the studs, hold it in place with two nuts just barely threaded on, then get this nut on. Once you have all the other nuts on, tighten this one first. If the manifold is moved closer to the head without tightening this nut, the nut interferes with the manifold and you can't turn it. In my case, it's easy to tighten and loosen these nuts, but with the body on, it would be a real headache, and take a LOT of time.
Another important note is that these are 8 mm X 1.25 thread copper coated nuts, but have a 12 mm head instead of the 13 mm head. If you are removing them, this is an important fact, to keep from rounding off the nuts. When you reinstall the manifold, you MUST use new nuts. The lock in place by distorting when first installed, and don't function properly when reused. The 12 mm head nuts are a little harder to find, but get them. If the normal Lotus places don't have them, try Ace Hardware (so I've heard). They are probably available other places as well.
Also got pieces of the exhaust wrapped, which looks nice
and the left motor mount painted, assembled, and wrapped with insulation. The insulation is adhesive, but I also use SS safety wire on it to keep it in place.
Yeah, not quite ready to drive it home, though. There are a LOT of things that I'm going to have to do to the JPS car to get it up to this standard (not that this standard is THAT high). I'm planning on making lots of upgrades to the electrical system, which I'll prototype on Charro, then copy over to the JPS.