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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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The usual Lotus Parts Suspects (at least, JAE and RD Enterprises) have the 12mm copper nuts available.

PS, I know it isn't, but your motor mount insulation looks like Duct Tape! (That means, you are a TRUE craftsman!) LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #42
The usual Lotus Parts Suspects (at least, JAE and RD Enterprises) have the 12mm copper nuts available.

PS, I know it isn't, but your motor mount insulation looks like Duct Tape! (That means, you are a TRUE craftsman!) LOL
It is nice stuff. Adhesive on one side. I've used it in the past, and it works well. Picked it up at AutoZone. I also safety wire it, and then put another small piece over the twisted end, to keep from catching it on stuff, like skin.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Charro's body is in the air, and I was just finishing up a bath on the JPS, and thought I'd grab a couple pictures.





 

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Discussion Starter #45
Thanks. I liked it a lot. I sent the set to a professional photographer (he shot my wedding) and he liked the second photo over the first. Well, taste is not universal.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Well, I've gotten some work done in the last few days. Got the head on and installed the cam holders, and checked the valve clearances. Since I lapped the valves, all the shims had to change, and my supply of shims were in the .105-.112 range, and Charro needed shims in the .073-.076 range. I have two shims jetting their way First Class in from the coast. I hate when the shipping costs more than the parts.



In the meantime, I installed the coolant pump which I rebuilt a couple months ago. It's not a water pump any more, because I'm not using water. I'm using Evans Waterless coolant. No corrosion, boiling point of 375 deg F. I got more hoses connected, and installed temporary wiring for the ignition system. I'm reusing Charro's original crispy coil because it is a 3 ohm coil, so I won't need an external resistor. The new wiring harness probably has the resistive wire in it (I didn't check), so I have a new brushed chrome Flamethrower coil ready for when the new wiring is installed.

So, I turned the chassis around so that I can work on the front end. This is what one of the front wheels look like on the inside:



It's a wonder I can sleep with this mess. It should clean up okay, and I'll start working on that in the morning when it's cool outside.

With the front end in the air, I've pulled the brake calipers off to be rebuilt. I'll pull the rotors off and clean them up and check that they are okay, removed the old damper, will pain the rest of the stuff there, and install a new damper. Will have to pull the steering rack off in order to get the tie rod ends out, so that I can replace the bellows (one is ripped, and they both look nasty). Well, it gives me an excuse to clean up the rack and make sure it's working properly, and probably get some grease in there.

 

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Discussion Starter #47
Got some more stuff done today. Pulled the nasty, nasty front brakes off. The calipers looked like they went through the fire, but they didn't. They'll clean up okay (sorry, forgot to take a picture). Rotors are below minimums, so I have new rotors, pads, and bearings on order. Pulled the worn-out dampers out. Got some more stuff painted.





I got a nice FlameThrower brushed chrome coil on Ebay for $20. I think it looks pretty nice, and a little black paint on the mount will set it off.

 

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Discussion Starter #50
This is what the inside of the front wheels looked like this morning



After an hour's work, this is what they looked like.



The wheel on the right, after attempting to clean it with purple degreaser, got only soda blasted. The wheel on the left was hit with chemical warfare: a couple different cleaners, brake cleaner, a wheel cleaner with hydrochloric acid, and finally with paint stripper. Geeze, what a job. I still have a couple more hours on these. The center caps cleaned up nicely though.

This is what the front calipers look like:


I'm not looking forward to cleaning these bad boys, although the difference will be like night and day. Charro will be lighter in the end, at least. Better performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Some good progress recently. The front calipers have been rebuild and are looking good. New rotors are awaiting the bearings and seals, which are jetting their way in from Great Britain.



Front wheels have been cleaned up. They aren't perfect, but good enough for now.



Once the parts get in via FedEx and are installed, the front end is pretty much finished,



other than mounting the radiator. I have a thermostat coming in from Miami for that which should be here tomorrow. Depending on when the bearings and seals are expected to arrive, I might pull it off the jack stands and turn the chassis around, so I can work on the engine. I'm getting close to being able to run a compression check on her, and then get some carbs on her and start her up.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I cleaned the chassis off, but I didn't strip it done, sand it perfectly smooth, then powder-coat it. I was interested in protecting it from any further rust, that's all. I'm pretty sure a judge at a car show is NOT going to see that. ;-}
 

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I hope I didn't raise any ire with my comment. Since you can see some rust or what I think I'm seeing is rust that it was something you were planning on taking care of. Still, I cannot fathom taking an entire automobile apart this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Some minor surface rust was removed, but there wasn't much of that. What you are seeing is some leftover paint versus no paint. Didn't make any sense to me to take the old paint off, just to paint over it again. The Rustoleum covers the paint or bare metal equally well, and seals them from water, so it won't rust any more. AS this is heavier than the original paint, my thinking is that it will last a lot longer. This is NOT intended to be a better -than-factory restoration. It is getting a burnt car back on the roads instead of parting it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Ah, I love a job well done. Just finished with:

o New bearings and seals
o Packed with Mobil 1 Synthetic grease
o Rebuilt calipers
o New brake pads
o Stainless steel brake hoses





Tomorrow, the front wheels can go back on, place it back on the dollies, and turn it around so that I can start working on the engine and transaxle. Depending on how things go, I might be able to start her in a couple days.
 

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Keep the updates and photos coming!!! Can't wait for the video when that engine comes back to life!
 

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Discussion Starter #58
You'll have to wait at least one more day. Front carb was leaking petrol. How petrol got in there is beyond me. One of the lead plugs was leaking, so JB Weld has been applied. Will test it tomorrow.

Thanks for the silencer treatment, Wachuko.
 

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I noticed that you have a two post lift in your garage, what brand is it? and how do you like using it for the Esprit. Thanks DaveS4s
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I have a MaxJax 2-post PORTABLE lift. When it's not in use, it unbolts and is rolled out of the way. I store mine in my cabinets





You can read more about it on the Garage Journal web site here:
The MaxJax Portable 2-Post Lift - The Garage Journal Board

That's where I met Wachuko. He lives near me, and had one of these lifts, so I went over to check out his. I think I have a car friend for life now. I think I have him convinced to get rid of the Porsches and get an Esprit. ;-}

I bought my lift on sale in January a few years back for $1850. January is a slow month for them, so they arrange group buys with web sites like Garage Journal.

It's great with the Esprit, although the Esprit is the most difficult car to lift. I have bolt holes to allow one post to be mounted close or far away. Close is needed for the Lotus, and the outer holes allow me to lift any of the other cars easily. The lifting points on the Esprit are just in front of the rear wheels, which is easy, and the lower suspension arm in the front. In order to accomplish this, I lift the car in the rear normally and in the front with the pads basically under the door hinges. I get it in the air and get the front wheels off, and put jack stands under the center of the chassis and let it down until I can reposition the front pad to be under the suspension points. Because of the distance, I had to mount the posts in closer. However, it is still only a 10 minute maneuver, and makes working under the car SO MUCH EASIER. What used to be almost impossible (or it just seemed that way) is now easy to do. I replaced the clutch hose with the stainless steel line, and it really was a piece of cake. Other work under the car is easy to accomplish. I just a short office chair, and it's just great to wheel under there instead of crawling, and a lot easier when you don't have the tool that you need, you don't have to keep getting up and laying down.

The MaxJax requires 4 inches of concrete, and the pads have to mount at least 6 inches from a seam or stress relief cut. If I were build a brand new garage (which I did 5 years ago), instead of dividing the area into 4 quarters, I'd have them make 2 cuts laterally and 2 cuts longitudinally, basically make 9 pieces, where the longitudinal lines are down the center of the car.

No, there is NOT enough room to park a Lotus Esprit under it when fully extended. There is only 42 inches of clearance, and my Esprit (slightly lower than stock) needs 44 inches.

For the other cars in the fleet (73 Mustang, 06 Grand Prix GXP, 2007 Altima), it make oil changes, brake jobs, tire rotations so much easier.
 
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