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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone had this code and after changing out the gas cap, vent/shut/valve, and after carbon buildup a cannister replacement, the CEL light still comes on?
 

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try clearing the codes and doing the rediness test cycle again.
 

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just what the hell can a jerky with 8 posts know about an esprit
 

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not bloody likely
 

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Try these

1. The best way to get the O2 heater, EVAP and Secondary AIR tests to run is
to idle the vehicle. I just started it from cold and let it idle until it
had reached fully warm and these three bits had reset.

2. As you know the O2 sensor and the EGR were a bit trickier, but we
modified the calibration to make the conditions for the checks a bit easier
to hold. In general for the O2 sensor you need to run pretty steady on the
throttle between 35-55mph in 5th for half a minute or so. For EGR the enable
conditions are engine speed above 1500rpm and a light acceleration for about
10 seconds, this should keep the load on the engine just higher than normal
cruising roadload and allow a high enough level of EGR for the test to run.

3. I'm still looking through the catalyst monitor test code, but when I did
the checks here this test ran very easily during normal driving of the car.
I managed to reset the CAT monitor bit just driving the car along the road
into Wymondham (50mph limit)

The reason that the EVAP was not completed could be that the engine was not
cold enough when it was started and idled through to fully warm, a cold
start and idle should reset this one.

As for the oxygen sensor and EGR I'm not sure....

However if the dealership has a Tech1 that they can hook up to the car and
monitor engine data whilst they drive, the window for the oxygen sensor test
is engine speed between 1140 and 2200rpm, throttle position between 3.5 and
10.5% and MAP between 30 and 65 kPa, (usually 50mph in 5th gear). They need
to stay in this window for at least 35 seconds.

The EGR window is a bit more complicated, but in general the engine speed
needs to be greater than 1500rpm and the MAP needs to be greater than 45
kPa, but not too much greater because the EGR rate will start to reduce with
increasing MAP. That's why a gentle acceleration for about 10 seconds from
an engine speed of 1700rpm is enough to reset the EGR bit.
 

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I'll make sure you can't stand to do that then. But seriously now if the gas cap is ok then I would take a close look at the connector on the solenoid. This code is actually for the Vent control showing open circuit and the potential failure modes are:
- connectors
- Wire open circuit
- Relay missing
- Solenoid faulty
- ECM input circuit failed

Are there any other codes in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
not sure of any other codes, I guess I need to get one of those OBDII deals huh? The dealer here in San Antone is not a good one and have change service managers at least 3 times in the last year or so...
 

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Try these

1. The best way to get the O2 heater, EVAP and Secondary AIR tests to run is
to idle the vehicle. I just started it from cold and let it idle until it
had reached fully warm and these three bits had reset.

2. As you know the O2 sensor and the EGR were a bit trickier, but we
modified the calibration to make the conditions for the checks a bit easier
to hold. In general for the O2 sensor you need to run pretty steady on the
throttle between 35-55mph in 5th for half a minute or so. For EGR the enable
conditions are engine speed above 1500rpm and a light acceleration for about
10 seconds, this should keep the load on the engine just higher than normal
cruising roadload and allow a high enough level of EGR for the test to run.

3. I'm still looking through the catalyst monitor test code, but when I did
the checks here this test ran very easily during normal driving of the car.
I managed to reset the CAT monitor bit just driving the car along the road
into Wymondham (50mph limit)

The reason that the EVAP was not completed could be that the engine was not
cold enough when it was started and idled through to fully warm, a cold
start and idle should reset this one.

As for the oxygen sensor and EGR I'm not sure....

However if the dealership has a Tech1 that they can hook up to the car and
monitor engine data whilst they drive, the window for the oxygen sensor test
is engine speed between 1140 and 2200rpm, throttle position between 3.5 and
10.5% and MAP between 30 and 65 kPa, (usually 50mph in 5th gear). They need
to stay in this window for at least 35 seconds.

The EGR window is a bit more complicated, but in general the engine speed
needs to be greater than 1500rpm and the MAP needs to be greater than 45
kPa, but not too much greater because the EGR rate will start to reduce with
increasing MAP. That's why a gentle acceleration for about 10 seconds from
an engine speed of 1700rpm is enough to reset the EGR bit.
Last fall I had the same problem. The test above should work for the O2 sensor and the EGR. They are tricky... but once I got my car in 5th and drove for about a minute ... very steadly at 55mph the ECU ran both tests. I think the O2 sensor test was the hardest to get completed.

Also Inoticed that in you have less than 1/3 of a tank of gas the ECU will run the EVAP test faster. Don't know why... but it did.

JoeyO
2001 V8
 
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