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I've yet to invest in a PC 7424XP, but I'm close. Before I jump in and make a mess I want to make sure I know how to handle my Star Shield (clear bra).

I've read some people saying to not polish it and to tape over the seam. I've seen other people saying to polish it using Menzerna Final Finish PO85U (I'm not sure why that specific polish).

So what's the definitive answer?
 

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I polish my clear bra before with no problems. But I can imagine if you thin it out too much, removal may be a problem down the road.
 

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Well, all of my polishing was done by hand so there was no risk to the seams. While I don't recommend it, if you plan on using a DA definitely go easy on seams. But I wouldn't mask them--I honestly think it would leave an ugly line where the mask was, unless you decide run the tape right up against the seam vs over it.

Mind you the material I was polishing was XPEL. Some clear bras are much thinner. XPEL is an 8 mil material. I have not polished my starshield on my Lotus yet. Currently it's fully swirls but whatever I use a car cover it's unavoidable.
 

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i don't think id use a DA on a clear bra. I don't think it would be advisable to polish one, and if you run the DA over a seam chances are high you'll get product built up in it.

I like XPEL products too, and also apply them by hand- I use the their cleaner and sealant. Not sure why you'd want to put a wax or a finish on top of the clear bra, maybe someone else can speak to that.
 

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You can use a separate plastic polish.

Mothers® Plastic Polish

This works wonders - mask off your paint and do it by hand first - if you still have swirls use the porter and cable only in that area.

If you polish your paint - mask off your clear bra for best results.

I am interested in seeing a bright red car done with Satinguard because I am interested in having my car a satin look - with that - I hope to only need to wash and wax every once and a while :)
 

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Well I'll be darned! I still wouldn't bother with it unless I was removing something clearly visible, such as a scuff.
 

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Also waxing over a clearbra is fine but using a sealant first is better - less chance for the white hazing.

Also if you use a glazer, you can put it after the synthetic sealant and before the carnuba wax for the best looking wet dripping paint you can get :)
 

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Well I'll be darned! I still wouldn't bother with it unless I was removing something clearly visible, such as a scuff.
Or like about 30 cone hits...
 

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I understand why you might tape over the seams of the clear bra/StarShield to avoid lifting those seams with the DA buffer, but doesn't that leave a line between the buffed and unbuffed area? Does this just require some hand working with compound on those edges?
 

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2005 Lotus Elise; 2007 Lotus Exige S; 2012 Porsche 991S
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I have used my PC 7424XP on the clear bra with no ill effect. I'm a nut for swirl marks and the clear bra gets swirls if you aren't washing properly, just like the paint does. You can polish them out using the normal process.

I did tape along the seams though to avoid ripping up the clear bra edge or getting product built up along there. Yes, there is a tiny line of "unbuffed" area under the tape, but you can go back my hand later, or just leave it. The seam of the clear bra is more eye distracting than a buffed/unbuffed area.
 

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I'm planning on spending next weekend polishing/waxing our Elise. I love my PC, once you learn how to use it you can make your paint look like new and it's a rewarding process. I use Menzerna polishes and have read some good reviews using their 85RD on clear bras, also have some Meguiars plastic polishing compound as well.

Regarding taping/not taping I figure I can get close enough to the seam that you won't be able to see a definitive line where the PC didn't hit. My only question, does anyone know how to remove the built up road grime that gets imbeded in the edges of the starsheild? I don't want to damage the edges trying to clean it out, tried using a clay bar and that left some residue behing as well.

And I use Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant (Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection - 16 oz | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image). This stuff is awesome, you can do your entire car in one pass, and wipe it off all at once when you're done. Easiest stuff in the world to remove and it is one of the slickest surfaces when you're done! I'll put 2-3 layers on my cars and add another 2-3 months down the road to spruce things back up. Just thought I would throw it out there as an option for people.
 

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+1 on Blackfire. Best stuff I've ever used.
 

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I just bought a PC 7424XP plus about $200 worth of detailing supplies online this weekend. I decided that since I wash my car at least twice a week in warm weather I should at least do it the right way.

We still have almost 8" of snow and we got 3" more today! There is still no "warm" weather and even more snow in our extended forecast! (Are you listening Al Gore?)

This means I've become a hermit, dreaming that I might someday drive and detail my Lotus again. Meanwhile, I've become a Junkman junkie, (he doesn't fake the funk):D. Now I'm studying for when (and if) our temperature ever gets above 50 degrees...
 

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For those with Xpel film, can't you remove scuffs with just a heat gun?
I had a few scuffs and lightly went over it with a heat gun, they went away easily but please exercise caution when doing this.
 

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bad idea, imo.. I had real "fun" removing it as is from my RX-8, no need to have it bond any tighter to the paint than it does already!
 

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0n my 2011, whenever I had a wax build up that could be seen on the edge of the Starshield, whether I hand waxed or used my orbital, I just took out a tooth-pick and carefully ran it along the edge and the build up "curls" right out. With a little practice, I got pretty good running it along all the seams whether anything was visible or not. I am now using a sealant, CQuartz, so there is no build up but the tooth-pick is at the ready!
 

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bump
 

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Eric
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I use a soft bristle tooth brush along the edge of the star shield and it takes it off easily and gently!
 
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