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I went to wheel studs a few years back. At a track event, if you start at 77 ft-lbs Tq, you will have VERY loose lug nuts when you come in from 1st session. Even at 85 ft-lbs, they are Too loose for comfort at end of 1st session. I now start my days at 90 ft-lbs and , then re torque to 85 ft-lbs for rest of day.
On the street, I find I always have to retorque nuts if I start at 77 ft-lbs. Try torquing everything to 85 ft-lbs when coming in from a hot drive and see if things get quieter. I bet you will only be at ~50 ft -lbs at most on a hot wheel with stock settings. Personally and not understanding the physics to be honest, I know that as the wheels get hot, the cones expand and the nuts get looser. I ALWAYS torque my lugs while hot as that is the temp they will operate at. The ONLY time I have ever broken a stud/bolt/lug, etc is when I don't follow this protocol.

Also, corroded bolts don't torque properly. This was discussed in another thread a day or 2 ago.
 

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Update: clicking sound definitely came back after this past winter - not exactly sure when. I am now pushing 16k miles and it has definitely been there for the last few thousand miles or so. As before, it really only happens when turning at slow speed (think maneuvering around a garage) or high speed hitting the corners really hard - you can really hear it with the windows down in hard cornering. Have checked the torque of the wheels several times and no issues where they were getting loose or anything. I don't love having to live with this (it seems) but it doesn't bother me enough to take it to the dealer for that purpose alone. I assume I'll raise it again when I have to go to the dealer for some reason, they'll probably replace again, and the noise will probably come back again...Thanks to roarf for the summary of his cleaning fix attempt - any updates on effectiveness?
 

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Thanks to roarf for the summary of his cleaning fix attempt - any updates on effectiveness?
Yeah, it worked for a while and now is back but on a different wheel lol. I had the wheels off again to bleed the brakes and a few of the lug bolts had started to get a little bit of white corrosion again. I cleaned them off but the click is back. I might try brgelise's method of torquing them warm, immediately after a drive. I don't want to overtighten them just to make it go away, but I'm sure there is some tolerance in the torque spec.
 

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I'm wondering is maybe it's something other than lugs causing some of the issues? Not knowing Evoras like I do with my Elise I had an elusive clicking when I first got my car and found there is an anti rattle tape used that helps non oem brake pads that are just a bit smaller than oem pads to keep from catching and causing a clicking noise. You don't see them listed or sold anywhere but Elise shop. Mine were worn and sure enough installing these cured my clicking sounds. Just a thought. Here's link to when I had my clicking along with other noises. Finally got rid of the clicking, rattling and thumping
 

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Hi. I have a 2012 Evora S. This year I got new tires and started tracking the car a bit (two days at the beginning of the summer, one today).

In the middle of the second track day earlier this year, the car started clicking from the left side on right hand turns. No sound when straight or turning left. It got progressively worse. I brought it to the dealer for annual service and some other issues (door latch failed again) and they said there was no issue. I'm guessing they test drove it after servicing it, not before, so the wheels had been off.

To be honest the car has sat most of the summer. Today I was doing paced laps at a track, so not at full speed, but the clicking came back, and got loader and louder throughout the day. Then it started happening during left hand turns too, from the right side.

I haven't checked my lug bolts or torque, but I will.

It occurred to me, could this be an issue of which wheels people are running? I have the forged wheels. That has something to do with it?
 

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Do your cars click in reverse?

There's an old Honda S2000 trick, when their axles start clicking they remove them and swap them left to right.

That now means the car won't click when moving forward, but will moving backwards.

So for everyone out there with clicking noises, does it go away in reverse? Chances are it's CV joints on the axles.
 

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If you're running aftermarket wheels and using stock lug bolts, there may be an issue. I did a little research on this and found that the Lotus wheel and bolt are machined with a 60 degree angle. Most aftermarket wheels and lug bolts/nuts use a 45 degree angle. The way to confirm if your wheel bolt is seating properly is to get some permatex prussian blue and coat the wheel seat taper and see how much is rubbed off on the wheel and how much transferred to the seat of the wheel bolt. If it didn't leave much of a mark, you have mismatched tapers between the bolt and wheel.
 

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If you're running aftermarket wheels and using stock lug bolts, there may be an issue. I did a little research on this and found that the Lotus wheel and bolt are machined with a 60 degree angle. Most aftermarket wheels and lug bolts/nuts use a 45 degree angle. The way to confirm if your wheel bolt is seating properly is to get some permatex prussian blue and coat the wheel seat taper and see how much is rubbed off on the wheel and how much transferred to the seat of the wheel bolt. If it didn't leave much of a mark, you have mismatched tapers between the bolt and wheel.
Prussian blue is great if you have some in your tool box, but an easier way is to use any color sharpie felt pen and paint the cone area of the bolt or nut. Same procedure.
 
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