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Totally 1000% over reacting as just the opposite is true! The lugs nuts will actually be tighter than without the grease.

First off, the lug studs are supposed to be clean and dry. Installing lube alters the fasteners stretch vs torque curve which results in overstretching of the lug-stud to achieve the specified torque. In short, the lube actually over tightens the lugs if you use the same torque with a dry lug nut vs. a lug nut with grease on it.

Theoretically you could snap off the lug due to over stretch because of the lubrication or grease.

That said, I have used VERY light coatings of antisieze for many years with no issue on all my vehicles and trailers, but I would not use axle for a permanent, long term use. Just long enough to see if this makes the ticking go away.

I would clean off your lugs and lug nuts with brake cleaner and apply grease on the threads, reinstall and see if the clicking stopped. This will tell you exactly where the issue is and you can work backwards from there. I suspect this will cure the ticking! If it stops ticking, you know the issue is you need to torque the dry lugs more when you reinstall them.

The theory being that the increased friction from no grease will keep the lugs from loosening. An opposing theory is that with greased threads the same torque would put a higher tension on the stud. This will reduce any slight movement thereby reducing the likelihood of the nuts coming loose. I suspect this movement is creating the ticking noise.

I wouldn't drive 100 miles with the grease on the lugs. Be sure to clean them off before a long-term, permanent install.

Remember this: You MUST re-tighten the lug nuts after 50 miles of driving and then again at 100 miles or so. The lug nuts will settle after being tightened and will actually allow the wheel to move very slightly. This movement can create a ticking noise exactly as the OP described!

First of all they are lug bolts. Secondly grease has no business being on anything that is meant to keep the wheels on the car. How is this safe advice? Or am overreacting?
 

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Uk owner, from MLOC , Ive got 2010 N/a I'm also experiencing the same metallic clicking on the rears sounds like a stone or nail in tyre but it's not . Been to see a mechanic he's had a look, says it's definitely not cv joint , it's on both when I corner to the right it's on the left rear and when corner to left its on the right wheel. He's took off the wheel, he thinks it's something catching inside with the parking break or a loose or dry baring, he's blown out all the disc breaks free of dust and stones going to see how it goes. Find it strange so many experiencing this
 

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This isn't the same parking brake cable issue that was reported in another forum is it?
 

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http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212457

When I got my Evora two months ago I had a slow speed clicking from the rear wheels. When I stopped at dealer for 1,500 mile service I mentioned it and said that I read it could be parking brake cable against heat shield.

They never told me exactly what they did, but the noise was gone when I got it back.

Thus I'm wondering if your noise is the same thing. I could only hear it at very low speeds.
 

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It's definitely not that. This is a click tied to the wheel rotation. It's like a nail sticking out of the tire
 

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Is there an email address we can all report this to at lotus hq as it seems too much of a coincident that we are all experiencing the same issue from all different parts of the world
 

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It's definitely not that. This is a click tied to the wheel rotation. It's like a nail sticking out of the tire
I hope I'm not out of line suggesting that perhaps going over the tire very closely would be a good idea? :shrug:

If there is a small nail or other bit deep in the tire then it would only make a noise at certain speeds i think. I have experience in this matter, one of my cars had a screw in it that was revealed by a clicking noise exactly as described in this thread.
 

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Obviously I have inspected the tires closely.
Also if it was something in the tire, it wouldn't go away after cleaning the hub, and then come back.
 

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It had nothing to do with cleaning the hub. The wheels loosen up about 50 miles after putting them on. They will not fall off...but they slightly stretch creating just enough wheel slippage to tick. What you are hearing is the wheel moving forward and back against the lug nut this making the metal-to-metal ticking noise! Try the grease!

Obviously I have inspected the tires closely.
Also if it was something in the tire, it wouldn't go away after cleaning the hub, and then come back.
 

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It had nothing to do with cleaning the hub. The wheels loosen up about 50 miles after putting them on. They will not fall off...but they slightly stretch creating just enough wheel slippage to tick. What you are hearing is the wheel moving forward and back against the lug nut this making the metal-to-metal ticking noise! Try the grease!
That is highly unlikely and not at all consistent with my experience.
Wheels simply do not "loosen" up in normal driving when properly torqued.
After almost five years of driving, including multiple wheel-on/wheel-off occasions, I have never had a wheel "loosen" and never heard any hint of a clicking sound.
 

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Go to any tire store, Discount Tire, etc. Ask them why they tell you to bring your car back in after 50 miles of driving to re-torque the lug nuts.

Read here:

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107

This is right from Tirerack.com

"When installing new wheels you should re-torque the wheel lugs after driving the first 50 to 100 miles in case the clamping loads have changed following the initial installation. This is necessary due to the possibility of metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the wheels as they are breaking in, as well as to verify the accuracy of the original installation. When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten to value, in sequence. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above."

That is highly unlikely and not at all consistent with my experience.
Wheels simply do not "loosen" up in normal driving when properly torqued.
After almost five years of driving, including multiple wheel-on/wheel-off occasions, I have never had a wheel "loosen" and never heard any hint of a clicking sound.
 

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The OP said the ticking went away temporaily after cleaning the hubs. Cleaning the hubs required removal and reinstallation of the lug nuts and wheels. No ticking right after the lug nuts were tightened and then the ticking came back. Culprit? Tension changes due to settling of wheels. Put some grease on the lug nuts, tighten them then drive for 100 miles. This prevents the wheel from moving ever so slightly which is what creates the ticking noise. See if the ticking comes back. There is your issue if it doesn't return!


Go to any tire store, Discount Tire, etc. Ask them why they tell you to bring your car back in after 50 miles of driving to re-torque the lug nuts.

Read here:

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107

This is right from Tirerack.com

"When installing new wheels you should re-torque the wheel lugs after driving the first 50 to 100 miles in case the clamping loads have changed following the initial installation. This is necessary due to the possibility of metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the wheels as they are breaking in, as well as to verify the accuracy of the original installation. When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten to value, in sequence. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above."
 

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A number of folks have mentioned greasing the lug bolts. No don't, torque settings are based on dry lubrication greasing or oiling will lead to over torquing which could later lead to warped disks or worst, snapped bolts. Also adds risk that grease will get onto brake surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
I would never use grease because 1 I never heard of such a thing. 2 it sounds counterintuitive and even the idea of allowing you to tighten them even more sounds bad. If it were a good thing it would be standard procedure. 3 I have no idea who you are what your background in automotive engineering is to take such advice (no disrespect here just being pragmatic and nothing you've stated makes me want to put grease on my lug bolts nor have you ever stated you've experience this problem and fixed it before for yourself any anyone else for that matter).

On the note about re torquing-- while I follow guidelines to retorqued my wheels every time i reinstall them, I have never once seen them loosen, ever. And I've followed this guideline well overa dozen times over the years working on my cars. I think that guideline is there mostly an issue of liability.. You know, a CYA sort af thing. I'm sure there are many many ways a person can screw up reinstalling wheels. I've seen a wheel fly of a car with my own eyes, actually. so yeah its not a bad guideline to have.


Anyway it is not the lug bolts. If it was as simple as that this clicking sound would be a far more common problem than I've ever heard it to be. Never heard it on any car I've every owned besides my Evora.

I'm inclined to believe it has more to do with the brake shoe assembly.

Anyway hoping to hear more from Evora owners.
 

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Hey Squid....I was trying to help you. No need to be rude in your response. Trust me, I will not try and help you anymore!

My occupation? Metallurgical Engineer, Manager of Operations.
 

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noticed the clicking myself today. Only in left turns at low speed below 25MPH
 
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