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I have the same intermittent clicking noise (like a rock stuck in the rear tire tread) on my 2011 Evora S. Dealer inspected and found nothing.

I'm ignoring it unless someone finds something more serious. Looks to be a common problem here??
 

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First of all, thanks to everyone who provided different insights and workarounds/fixes. It's people like you that allows me to try and tackle/solve things on my own first before taking to Lotus.

This issue has been occurring for months. Mostly heard during right hand turns, but could also be heard on left hand turns, or even going straight over a bump. I never took the wheels off, but inspected if the lug bolts, brake calipers, or body/under tray fixins were loose - nothing. So I planned to wait until my next Lotus service visit.

Last Friday I was in a parking garage and I didn't realize just how loud this clicking sound was, and it's just embarrassing to have a car look this nice but make a sound like this - so I knew I needed to get it fixed right away. Searched Lotustalk over the weekend and happy to have found this thread.

So this morning I first test drove around the block for a baseline sound. Then took each wheel off one at a time and closely inspected for anything loose, and then cleaned the rear side of the wheel and hub interface by spraying WD40 on paper towels and simply wiping down. I also cleaned between the lug bolt and the little cone shaped piece on the bolt. I then torqued to factory specs. And then test drove.

LHR wheel, the sound was almost gone. Perhaps 80% in clicking noise reduction. I then proceeded to RHR. And now 100%, no clicking noise. I wonder why no problems with the front wheels.

So at least the theory continues that removing the wheel and reattaching fixes the issue (perhaps temporarily). I'll need to confirm over time.

I don't drive the car too often, but I'll provide an update when I have logged 1000 miles, or earlier if I hear the sound again. Thanks again, at least I have a temporary solution to fixing this!
 

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Sound came back within 100 miles. Specifically during spirited driving at GGLC anti football drive today.

I wonder if the sound somehow might be coming from that cone shaped thing on the lug bolt. Perhaps it eventually gets ever so loose and rattles around the lug bolt.

Anyways I swapped out the left front lug bolts with the rears - sound gone again. I'll see when the sound comes back.
 

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**** this click. Only bringing up this post from the graveyard to help others. The info provided here was derived over the last year and roughly 2,000 miles driven.


I have an Evora S which I rarely drive. I used a valet about 16 months ago and I was embarrassed about the horrible click as I walked inside the restaurant, and the car left to be parked. The next day, I took the wheels off, cleaned them and put them back on. The click was gone, but came back in 3 or so months, about 200 miles. I was annoyed.

I grabbed some industrial grade wireless piezoelectric transducer pickups from work. Paired them to a laptop, mounted them (4 piece pickup) to each wheel, and drove. I drove a lot. I would start charting sound on a 11 mile stretch of road near my house with no stop lights, 55mph speed limit, and numerous curves going both right and left. I would start the recording session as I entered the stretch of road, and I would stop it at the end, and then restart the recording as I drove back 11 miles.

Without getting into crazy numbers here, I'll make the following info simple. 0 = no clicks, 10 = super annoying bicycle clicks. I averaged the total number out of clicks to given an accurate representation of left vs right curves. Using Cubase Pro production software, I could look at a visual peak of every wheel click from driving, which soared anywhere between 240% up to 1600% of a normal quiet wheel.

Base line:
Cleaned the mating surface of the wheels and hub. (I also swapped in some brand new brake pads). This car is pristine with no rust anywhere on the drive train. 105 Nm torque on the wheels.

11 mile A (away)
FL 0
FR 0
RL 1
RR 0


11 mile B (back home)

FL 0
FR 0
RL 0
RR 1


I then drove 347 miles over the next 2 weeks while only using a torque wrench every 100 miles or so to verify torque at 105 nm. Twice I could get a rear lugnut slightly tighter, but they were very close to spec during the whole duration.

Test after 347 miles

11 mile A (away)
FL 2
FR 1
RL 6
RR 4


*11 mile B (back home)*

FL 2
FR 2
RL 5
RR 5

I removed the wheels, cleaned the hub and wheel mating surfaces with a bristle drill attachment. They were already clean, but wanted dirt to be removed from the equation. On reinstall of the wheels I used an extremely small film of copper grease on the wheel/hub mounting, and on the lug nuts for the rear left wheel. On the right rear side I used a small amount of anti-seize on the hub/wheel mating surface. Wheels torqued to 105 nm

Cleaned wheel test

11 mile A (away)
FL 0
FR 0
RL 0
RR 0


*11 mile B (back home)*

FL 0
FR 0
RL 0
RR 0

I then drove the Evora on a 550 mile round trip to our vacation home (I forgot how much fun this car is to drive). I verified wheel torque every once in a while, and the lugnuts never moved more than an 1/8" of an inch.

Test after 550 miles:

11 mile A (away)
FL 2
FR 3
RL 0
RR 10


*11 mile B (back home)*

FL 2
FR 3
RL 0
RR 10


Now I am seeing a pattern here. Rear left tire has been silent for over 500 miles..
Remove all 4 wheels, clean the anti-seize AND copper grease off the rear wheels. I apply copper grease to the hubs/wheel surface, and to the lugnuts of FL, FR, and RR tires. On the rear left I only put copper grease on the mating surface, and not on the lugs. Torqued to 105nm and I replaced the batteries in all 4 microphones.

Test Drive results with clean wheels:

11 mile A (away)
FL 0
FR 0
RL 0
RR 0


*11 mile B (back home)*

FL 0
FR 0
RL 0
RR 0

Over the next 2 months I drove 437 miles. Randomly checking torque, and finding the lugs were all set, with little to no movement.

Test drive after 437 miles:

11 mile A (away)
FL 0
FR 0
RL 5
RR 0


*11 mile B (back home)*

FL 0
FR 0
RL 7
RR 0

I get home, clean off the RL wheel, apply copper grease to the mating surface, and to the lug nuts, reinstall the tires and park the car for the winter. I have driven this car for 873 miles this summer, without having a single lugnut go out of spec, and I just got back from my final test.

873 mile test while having copper grease on the mating surface and lugs of every wheel:
11 mile A (away)
FL 0
FR 0
RL 0
RR 0


*11 mile B (back home)*

FL 0
FR 0
RL 0
RR 0




tl;dr, 16 months of testing revealed a small amount of copper grease on the lug nuts will totally remove all clicking noise. If I had to do this test again (thankfully I don't have to) I would have tried applying grease to just the threads of the lugnuts, and not on the cone. By me saying "greasing the lugnuts" I applied copper grease to the threads and to the centering cone surface that made contact with the wheel.
 

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This is too funny, I just noticed I have a click from my rear wheel. I was planning to take my rotor off and check the drum n make sure it wasn't that. Now I'll try what you said. Who knows.
 

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Wow, what a systematic approach and huge amounts of patience! Nice job. :clap:
It sure seems that the greased lugs played a part in eliminating the squeak. There are people more qualified to write on this so I'll just bring up one related topic: There seems to be a general engineering agreement that a lubricated bolt/nut will yield more clamping force with the same torque setting than an unlubricated bolt/nut at the same torque setting. So perhaps the squeak disappeared because the wheels were on reeeeeal tight?

In other words, even at identical torque wrench settings, a lubed bolt will hold the wheel tighter than a dry bolt, but this over-torquing might also stretch the bolt.

One of the reasons many people don't over-torque their wheels is that they do not want to put so much strain on the bolt that it deforms. Imagine a rod made of playdough--as you stretch it, the center portion will get skinnier. A metal bolt acts the same (but obviously it takes much more to stretch it). And when the center threads get thinner (even if just a bit), it will then be easier for the bolt or outer threads to work themself loose.

A ton of info can be found on Google, here's three to start:

And here are some pictures to illustrate (not all are wheel bolts):

And just to counterpoint myself, I've read that lot of people do lube their bolts without problems.

I'm not drawing any conclusions, just adding to the discussion. And I certainly appreciate @chauncythecat's impressive data logging.
 

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I'm glad you brought this thread back from the dead. I was reading this thread the other day because I started to have a click in my front driver side wheel only when making right turns. Took it into a shop which they thought were the brakepads, but after some brake grease, noise is still there. I'll try the cooper grease on the lug nuts to see if that helps. Have you noticed if the lug nuts loosened over time due to the grease?
 

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In other words, even at identical torque wrench settings, a lubed bolt will hold the wheel tighter than a dry bolt, but this over-torquing might also stretch the bolt.

One of the reasons many people don't over-torque their wheels is that they do not want to put so much strain on the bolt that it deforms.
Just for the hell of it, I went out to the garage (torque wrench was in the trunk) and you are correct. Using my highly accurate Computorq 3 torque wrench (digital), it took 84 FT lbs to crack every lugnut loose on the rear right, and the rear left it maxed at 82 ft lbs. I believe this is 113 nm / 111.nm. So the wheels that were torqued to 105NM roughly a year ago needed 113/111 nm to break free. I am unaware if a 7.5% over tightening is cause for concern. If I don't report back in the next year, chances are the lugs snapped on the expressway. :grin2:

On a side note, I wish there were some numbers to associate with those photos. The stretching of those bolts are amazing. Were they 5% over spec, or 100% over spec......

Have you noticed if the lug nuts loosened over time due to the grease?
Actually, it appears to be the opposite.
 

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Haha, God, I remember this thread. Tons of respect to you for that insane scientific method approach.
 

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Sorry to revive an old thread but I found this very informative. I had clicking in the rear wheels and I wish I'd read this thread all the way through instead of only the first 2 pages (about every 3 pages LotusTalk goes wonky on a mobile device). I only got to the part where they mentioned the e-brake/improper wheel-bolt torque could cause the noise so I figured I'd check that.

Wheel bolt torques checked-out, next up was to check the e-brake. On disassembly I found the disc screw to be hand-loose, figured that was the culprit but cleaned the e-brakes and whiz-wheeled the surface rust away on the rotor's inside (e-brake) contact anyway. All back together, all bolts tightened to spec and no noise. Glad that was an easy (and CHEAP) fix!
 

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I've had a similar issue in my 2017 Evora 400 (thankfully still under factor warranty). I actually hear it mostly from the front wheels and as mentioned above on garage speed sharp right turns. Had the dealership look at it many times. They had replaced the wheel bolts and cleaned off some corrosion for me. It did make the sound completely go away....for about 2-3 weeks.

When it came back took it to the mechanic. They ran it by Lotus who specifically asked if it sounded like "twigs snapping." Which is a great way to describe what I'm hearing. They then switched out the bolts again for me and again cleaned the interface. This time it only made it go away for a week. Then it came back and has progressively gotten louder. The next step from lotus is some sort of lubricant for the hub surface which has been ordered.

I'll let you know how that goes
 
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