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Discussion Starter #1
I had a call from a friend whose clutch failed and dropped its fluid at the slave cylinder. He had a broken retaining bolt for the slave cylinder. this allowed a misalignment and failure. Anyone else had this and what are the chances of getting the broken bolt out without dropping the transmission? He will replace the slave cylinder.
 

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Ugh! Hate eazy-outs... the only time one should be used is if you popped the head on a freshly installed bolt by over torquing... Otherwise if the bolt broke in use and there is an corrosion... then an Eazy-out will most likely just break off in the hole and then you have the problem of a hardened eazy-out stuck inside the bolt making it impossible to drill out.

I've had to help some others lately by using a carbide die-grinder to remove the eazy-outs so I could drill out the old bolt and clean the threads with a tap. In some cases I was able to keep the old threads, and in other cases I had to drill larger for a Helicoil insert to restore the threads.

Best method is to use a carbide bullett shaped die-grinder to put a depression in the end of the broken off bolt (smaller than the diameter of the bolt) and then use that to keep a drill bit centered. Use a drill about the size of the tap drill for that bolt, or a bit smaller, and drill concentric with the bolt and parallel to the broken bolt. Then pick out the left over threads of bolt, and clean the hole with a tap drill.

Otherwise, drill larger for a helicoil (same size as the broken bolt), use the recommended drill for that Helicoil. And then insert the Helicoil for the future bolt.

Sorry, not sure if you can do all that in the space provided.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Success

I was able to remove the broken bolt by using a stud extractor (ezyout). I could only drill this using a right angle drill attachment a canting the engine backwards after removing the front and rear engine mounts, to make enough room.
 

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I was able to remove the broken bolt by using a stud extractor (ezyout). I could only drill this using a right angle drill attachment a canting the engine backwards after removing the front and rear engine mounts, to make enough room.
Good job by you !
Not a lot of room there.
Removing a good bolt from that area is usually a big pain.
I install studs for the slave cylinder when I do engine swaps.
Studs make it easier to install the spring loaded (hydraulic fluid) slave cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good job by you !
Not a lot of room there.
Removing a good bolt from that area is usually a big pain.
I install studs for the slave cylinder when I do engine swaps.
Studs make it easier to install the spring loaded (hydraulic fluid) slave cylinder.
Yes I learnt that trick really quickly on my car. I must say I got a buzz doing this for a friend. I was prepared to drop the gearbox but my workaround worked well. I did need to drop the electrical box attached to the firewall and cut the larger drill bits short to make it fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here was the problem. As is obvious from the photo the bolt (on the stud extractor) only went a few mm into the bellhousing causing the failure. This is because the car was fitted with a genuine Cup 240 Sc upgrade which incorporates a brace from the Sc down to the bellhousing. This brace is about 6mm thick but the installer has used the original slave cylinder bolts. Big mistake!!
It now has two studs rather than bolts and of the correct length.
 

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Past two weeks i was doing a tranny job on a pontiac Vibe. Same transmission, essentially, the same bolt was broken, but at the head-junction.
Corrosion was the culprit.
Managed to get it out with a bit of messing with wd40 and shocking the end of the bolt.
Fortunately, the tranny was out and going to go into the vibe.
Sam
 
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