[wohlmeyer]

So I replaced my clutch master and slave. Bleed the system. Now my clutch peddle is mush and it has slow travel upon release. Feels week like a Honda. Is the consensus I have an air pocket in the line? If I pump the clutch the pressure gets better but never reaches the firmness it had before I replaced the hydrolics.

 

[esprit888]

So I replaced my clutch master and slave. Bleed the system. Now my clutch peddle is mush and it has slow travel upon release. Feels week like a Honda. Is the consensus I have an air pocket in the line? If I pump the clutch the pressure gets better but never reaches the firmness it had before I replaced the hydrolics.

Yup, you still have air in the system, they can be tricky unless you are using a self bleeder as the reservoir is so small two pumps and its almost empty. Also it really helps to raise the rear of the car as high as you possibly can, have a helper fill the reservoir as its drops. I have also had luck removing the slave cylinder and letting it hang down with the bleed tube dropping down into a glass jar half filled with fluid. Also confirm the new master cylinder push rod is the same length as the one you removed (typically they are NOT) and that you have installed the master rod pin into the correct hole on the pedal.

Colin

 

[Autocross7]

Agree... air. I usually put a bit of clear tube on the bleed nipple of the slave cylinder and run into a jar with a bit of fluid in the bottom.

I pump up the pedal a few times then holding it to the floor I jam it to the floor with a rod I made up (as I usually have no helper). Then go around and loosen then slave bleed nipple until the pressure is relieved. Any air is visible. I repeat until there are no air bubbles and the pedal is stiff.

Also, totally agree regarding pedal adjustment. Free play should be between 2 and 5mm when measured from the rear vertical foot well wall (carpet included). If you have a rubber pad on the pedal, take it off when measuring so you measure the metal not the rubber. This is adjusted easily by turning the 13mm pedal stop bolt just above the pedal hinge point.

When fully depressed the distance from the center of the pedal and the back wall should also be between 2 and 5mm.

Cameron

 

[wohlmeyer]

Thanks for the replies. Gonna bleed it more today then I'll post results.

 

[carbuff]

Yep, sounds like air in the line, not a mis-adjusted pedal link. <--- you would not see a change in action after pumping, if it was this

:up:


Nothing to add, except that one QUICK jab with the pedal will often move an air bubble away from a high point in the system...like the hump in the line where it comes out of the clutch master.

We also have removed air by propping the clutch pedal down, overnight. With the pedal down, trapped air can escape through the reservoir.

Patience, you'll get it done...

 

[Autocross7]

BTW, the measuring should be done from the center and bottom of the pedal. Did not ad that above... Some cars are measured from the actual center point of the pedal.

Do not forget about the slave adjuster either. Set it at 22mm.

Lotus Esprit Turbo clutch operation and adjustment

 

[maxvelocity]

Way easy with 2 people that know what they are doing

 

[wohlmeyer]

Thanks all mission accomplished. After 45 min if bleeding and 3/4 quart of brake fluid a large air bubble came out and now I have a clutch again!

 

[amanda11270]

I let my clutch slave hang with the bleeder removed after having similar issues, I was messing around on the computer in my shop for a couple hours keeping an eye on the master as it drained ever so slowly, then refilled it a few times.

I had to use vice grips and a small piece of angle iron to keep the bleeder to the top on the shop floor under the car, patience was key.

 

[mieczkow]

Best $50 I ever spent - a Motive power bleeder. Makes bleeding the clutch a 15 minute job and easily done by one person... Sold at lots of places including Summit, JEGS, etc.