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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gonna install new clutch, already have TO bearing, clutch, pressure plate, alignment tool, etc. from JAE.. Only write up I could find is

Esprit Clutch

But
A. cannot resize photos
B. Instructions are vague
C. No info on torque specs, etc.

Anyone have a link to a better writeup?

And if in DFW area and want to down a few beers and lend a hand let me know though dont see the job as being too difficult. Figure if I can swap out an automatic transmission to a manual in a 1990 300ZX twin turbo by myself in a weekend I can handle this...

Hints tips and such welcome!

Thanks!
 

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I have good photos, no writeup...

https://picasaweb.google.com/116113253735518541549/LotusClutchAndTranny

basically remove everything in your way to replace clutch...

In the above link I removed the whole transmission (including hatch to gain access). Though it is possible to replace the clutch just by loosening the transmission and moving the it backwards as far as it will go.

Similar to what you see here.

don't even have to remove the turbo!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Travis!

Happen to know the torque settings for the clutch, etc. bolts? I cannot seem to locate in my manuals...
 

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Flywheel to crankshaft is 55ft-lb
clutch assy is 17-19ft-lb

And you are correct the manuals do not specify the transmission casing to engine torque values.

Where the bolt threads into the engine, I would not use more than 35ft-lb. Where the bolt goes through and has a nut (like at the starter) you can use up to ~50ft-lb, but a general range would be 35-45ft-lb for that size of bolt.
 

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It only takes just a bit more to have the transaxle on the floor. Undo the shift linkage and the half shafts, remove the piece of frame, and with an engine crane you can pluck it right out. Depending on the condition and mileage you might want to open the box just to inspect it. It isn't all that much more work and if everything is in good condition it will only cost you some sealer and maybe some seals. Take the oil out before you remove the transaxle. Be sure to provide support for the rear of the motor. Keep track of which bolts go where, they are all different lengths. Inspect the flywheel carefully for heat cracks and ridges. If you remove the flywheel you are supposed to replace the bolts.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It only takes just a bit more to have the transaxle on the floor. Undo the shift linkage and the half shafts, remove the piece of frame, and with an engine crane you can pluck it right out. Depending on the condition and mileage you might want to open the box just to inspect it. It isn't all that much more work and if everything is in good condition it will only cost you some sealer and maybe some seals. Take the oil out before you remove the transaxle. Be sure to provide support for the rear of the motor. Keep track of which bolts go where, they are all different lengths. Inspect the flywheel carefully for heat cracks and ridges. If you remove the flywheel you are supposed to replace the bolts.
David Teitelbaum
A "...little bit more..." in my situation would mean buying a hoist amongst other things. Seals on drive shafts replaced last year and with just a bit over 27k miles ...
 

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If you can't borrow one you can rent them. They are not that expensive to buy. Yes, it is always "just a little bit more". If you have a couple of strong friends you can lift it out over the rear. Sliding it back is doable but it is a pain to slid it back together that way without a lift.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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My Esprit was off the road for over two years, just so I could do "a little bit more".

:facepalm :panic:

rotfl rotfl rotfl
 

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Cal H
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My Esprit was off the road for over two years, just so I could do "a little bit more".

:facepalm :panic:

rotfl rotfl rotfl
Glad your car is running again.
I don't think my wife would allow me to have that much money tied up into a car that just sat in the garage for that long. She is quite good about the hobby as long as it runs and drives. Lucky we have club members that are ready to work on cars when a distress call goes out.
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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I don't think my wife would allow me to have that much money tied up into a car that just sat in the garage for that long.
That's why I parked it in my daughter's (heated) garage. :D

Although, my grandson kept asking when it would be finished. :facepalm He remembered riding in it. :up: <--- another Lotus enthusiast in the making!

Daughter will miss my repair efforts... Many's the time I got talked into baby-sitting when I should have been turning wrenches. rotfl Small price to pay for garage rental. Plus, I got good at Mario Kart...
 

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Having done the clutch recently (see "broken clutch fork" thread), I would recommend pulling out the tranny and buying Harbor Freight's 2 T crane. If you need to replace the spigot bearing or rear seal as I did, it would be difficult w/o space.
 

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Wow, 55 ft/lbs for the flywheel to crank seems awfully light. Most of the other cars I've done have been in the 90-100 ft/lb range plus Loctite. Does Lotus specify Loctite for this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'd love to know what the stock flywheel weighs. ANy chance you could weigh the flywheel???
Dont plan on removing it unless it needs to be replaced or resurfaced... Anyone else know?

Does anyone make a lightweight flywheel? I remember on my 300ZZX Twin Turbo and 911 (996) swapping to a lightened one made a huge difference in off the line pull and on the Z reduced turbo lag as well.
 

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Wow, 55 ft/lbs for the flywheel to crank seems awfully light. Most of the other cars I've done have been in the 90-100 ft/lb range plus Loctite. Does Lotus specify Loctite for this?
The bolts aren't that big... Torque specs are usually determined by bolt size, among other parameters. Wheel lugs are only 74ft-lb, the bolts in the flywheel are quite a bit smaller than that.

Yes Loctite on the flywheel bolts on the 4cyl and the V8.

The 4cyl flywheel has 6 bolts torqued to 55ft-lb and NO WASHERS.

The V8 has 8 bolts, put in 2 dry, put the other 6 in with Loctite 243 (Blue med strength). tighten the 6 to 81ft-lb, and then remove the 2 first bolts and put Loctite on them, and then torque to 81ft-lb.
 

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Flywheel to crankshaft is 55ft-lb
clutch assy is 17-19ft-lb

And you are correct the manuals do not specify the transmission casing to engine torque values.

Where the bolt threads into the engine, I would not use more than 35ft-lb. Where the bolt goes through and has a nut (like at the starter) you can use up to ~50ft-lb, but a general range would be 35-45ft-lb for that size of bolt.
Is any threadlocker (Loctite) used on the flywheel bolts or on the clutch carrier bolts? Undoing my flywheel bolts was certainly a lot more than 55ft-lb, so I suspect a threadlocker was used.

Knut
 

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Is any threadlocker (Loctite) used on the flywheel bolts or on the clutch carrier bolts? Undoing my flywheel bolts was certainly a lot more than 55ft-lb, so I suspect a threadlocker was used.

Knut

Flywheel bolts do get loctite yes, and the V8 is 81ft-lb, mentioned above.

The Clutch pressure plate on the 4cyl has lock washers, no Loctite. Not sure about V8, the manual doesn't say to use Loctite, but the clutch assy is bolted to the flywheel with 31ft-lb of torque.
 

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You don't necessarily need a crane to remove the gearbox, at least with the Citroen box. I would imagine the Renault is only lighter as it doesn't have the brake mounts and such cast to it. Removing the gearbox entirely is only a few more steps. I removed the frame cross member, muffler assembly, unbolted the rear box mounts and axle shafts, then supported it (box) with a jack. At that point I climbed into the engine bay and slightly lifted and slid the whole thing rearward. Then just tilted it down and out of the back of the car on the floor, much easier than I had anticipated. Its not near as heavy a gearbox as I thought, and im not a big guy. Even lining it back up for install was easier than expected, which I also did from straddling the engine bay on the left and right where that removable frame connector goes. I had a helper ready with the top two gearbox bolts as to not strain the input shaft assembly (which is like gold) on the installation once I had it all lined up.

This picture was on the disassembly, I don't know why the previous owner painted the gearbox black.
 

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