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Discussion Starter #1
New to me 2011 Evora S, just discovered the cruise control does not engage. Previous owner had the clutch master replaced, I believe its a wilwood master. So I poked my head under the dash and noticed that there is a lot of play between the clutch pedal and the clevis rod end. I removed the clevis pin and it is pretty worn. Car has 22k miles total and less on the wilwood master, seems awfully worn down for the mileage.
I'll replace the pin. My question is, the clevis pin is 8mm dia but the hole for the pin on the clutch pedal is quite a bit larger, maybe ~8.5mm. Is this normal? I can't seem to get in there to measure, not enough room, but the hole seems round rather than oval shaped which would indicate that's not just worn out larger.

My other question is do you know if I can remove these two bolts holding the clutch position switch bracket to the bulkhead or are there nuts behind the bulkhead and I would need to remove the front clam to access? (are there captive nuts on the other side?)
 

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I don't recall there being another set of nuts on the clam-side for the sensor bracket, but I also didn't remove that bracket when I did my Wilwood.

The clevis pin hole in the clutch pedal side should be pretty tight fitting. The Wilwood side of the clevis most likely needed to be enlarged for that pin, but if it's too large it'll introduce slop. Sounds like the person that drilled out the clevis didn't have the right size bit. Pretty sure you can get the clevis separately from the m/c. Just be sure to measure its current distance from the pedal box wall prior to unscrewing it.

Based on the wear placement indicated on the pin though, it seems as if the hole in the clutch pedal arm is out of round, or too large. That would mean having to get another clutch pedal.
 

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I would move the clutch pedal closer to the foot well with the threads on the rod first. I had that issue as well. It sat like way higher when I put the Wilwood in but then lowered it and now everything works just fine. I do have a little play in the pedal though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just a follow up in case anyone ever runs into this same problem.
First, the dealer that installed this master did a poor job. The rod on the master was too long and was touching the pedal. I needed to cut the rod back at least a 1/4 inch.
second, don't try to remove the clutch position switch bracket, there are nuts attaching it on the other side of the bulkhead.
Third, If you are ever working on the pedals do yourself a favor a remove the drivers knee bolster, it's two torx screws and it will give an extra precious inch or so room to work.
Lastly, the clevis is 8mm dia and the hole in the pedal was around 10mm. I found a sleeved washer that was just about prefect to take up the gap. These are 5/16" which is very close to 8mm: https://www.mcmaster.com/93762a200
Also used 3 of these washers: https://www.mcmaster.com/91545a470
There is now just the right amount of play and the pedal is so much smoother to depress. I can't believe what a difference it has made and my cruise control is working now too!
 

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I may have this exact problem. I've been trying to diagnose some slop in my clutch engagement, which looks like it is at this same point. I haven't removed the pin, but can see that the pin moves when pressing the pedal before it engages on the MC fork. Thanks much for the follow up, I was just thinking I may need to machine some sort of bushing for this.
 

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Just took care of this problem last month. Went to my lotus technician since previous owner installed the GRP master cylinder wrong and the wrench light was on on every start up for about 10 seconds. Technician used lotus scan tool and could see that clutch position sensor value was out of bounds which meant the rod was adjusted wrong. Front clam off, he tried fixing it but the MC was one of first ones made and not a perfect fit, crude bracket.
We decided to order new GRP MC kit and install it. While waiting for new MC my tech got another lotus with a GRP MC that was barely an year old and the clevis pin was very worn down (later found out my pin was worn as well).
Our solution was to try BOE MC kit since its used in their race cars and comes with clevis pin (plus a lot nicer setup, quality, customer service).
They didn't have any clevis pins in the states so that would have taken too long to get the car on the road.
So far I have put around 1k miles and no more clunking sound when pressing the clutch
 
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