Coilover swap out and camber change-piece of cake!

THis one shows the 8 MM allen wrench hanging out of the rear bolt holding the shims in place. It wasn't too hard to break all four of the bolts (I removed the shims from the front only). As noted earlier, you only have to remove the rear two. The front two only have to be loose. The stand-alone 8 MM Allen worked fine, although it is a bit awkward getting a good grip, and there is a very limited field of motion. A socket 8 MM would have been a lot faster.

The shims from the driver's front. THe middle one was twice as thick as the other two on the driver's side. On the passenger side all three were thin on my car (.25MM, I believe)

All the tools you need for the shim removal:

Rear suspension upper:

Rear suspension lower:

My car with one last damper to change out:

And finally Stan's most excellent tools! This is a pain in the ass because you have to do it 8 times, four off, four on. But it's not all that complicated, and I had no springs go boinnnnnng! The LSS springs were stiffer, but it wasn't much of a difference in compression power needed. I guess I should change my signature line now. My car is LSS as soon as I drop the SSRs on, and they're due to arrive next week. Feel free to post any questions, although others have already done this, too, and they probably know more than me.

I'm very happy; in two weekends I have changed out the exhaust and converted the car to LSS springs and increased the negative camber in the fronts. Tomorrow I wash her down and relax.

My etch a sketch skills are not great, but here you go. I do not know how you can get more negative camber and be SCCA SS, but good luck.

The three shims are visible, the front bolt is not. The reat bolt is behind the ABS break line thingy-look at whee the allen wrench meets the back.

Yes, I really am an accountant (Controller, CPA)