The Lotus Cars Community banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just back from 1500+ mile trip to the dragon averaging 27.5 mpg. The car's cornering ability is amazing - no missed shifts with IPS. The only issue with the IPS I had to get used to was the rev blip on a downhill with a sharp turn at the bottom. It gives you a brief acceleration when you want to start braking. Still have not seen a rev limit light - plenty of torque from one curve to the next.

Had trouble twice after a gas fill-up. After an hour or so, the low fuel came on, and the range remaining was dropping rapidly. There must be a technique to get the fuel cap to tighten? I pressed down while getting it to multiple click the last time - hope that is the method?

After washing the car at Fontana Lodge, the check engine light came on. I was not too concerned and went for a several hour drive. I thought it must be related to the car wash? A Lotus club member had a reader he uses on his Caterham for additional gauge readouts, hooked it up, and although it said there were two codes, the only one it would display was P0000. He cleared the code and all was well.

After returning home, gave the car another wash, then headed into town. The check engine light and transmission lights were on. Stopped at Autozone for a code read out:
P0700 transmission control
P0751 shift solenoid
P1613 the dealer said this code was degraded operation

I bought the Actron code reader used at Autozone - I think it is a must tool for this car?

After returning home and attaching the new code reader, I got the following codes:
P0700 transmission control
various P030x for cylinder misfires

P0751 and P1613 were no longer there. I contacted the dealer and was told it would be OK to clear them. I did and no more codes.

The car seems to run perfectly? It is water tight, several heavy rain storms during the trip.

Lesson learned - do not wash the car?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,933 Posts
Misfires = damp coils or bad gas

Personally I wouldn't car wash this car. Too many places to drive water into engine bay in uncontrolled amounts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,601 Posts
Meguiar's "Final Inspection" is your friend. Water is the enemy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
That is strange indeed. Glad to hear it ran fine the whole time.

At the risk of avoiding the point, a few months ago I got into waterless washing, and I am completely hooked. I haven't wet washed my car since. I can detail my car in 20 minutes in my garage, and I think it's better for the finish. She gets detailed 2-3 times a week in less time that a single wet wash session.

Now if your car still threw a code after a waterless wash, that would be curious indeed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,709 Posts
If you QD your car every day, you won't need to wash it.. It literally takes me 5 minutes, and that's going over each panel twice. Car always looks nice, and I genuinely enjoy looking cleaning it when it's just a wipe-down.

Water ingress is an issue with these cars, and one owner even revealed that the ECU wiring retardedly flows downward to the ECU, so guess what? Yes, water flowed along the wire straight to his ECU and shorted it. TADTS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
wash or no wash

I usually use a spray mist detailer to clean the car. After being in a heavy rain storm and several hundred road miles on the way home, it was very dirty. Since there was no problem being in the rain storms during our trip, I'm thinking moisture on a hot engine is not a problem. Next time I'll run it around the block prior to hosing it down. The engine was cold for both washes.

Also be careful looking for the reader plug. Once when I reached under the dash I touched one of the foot well lights and burnt the tip of my finger. I do not understand why they would utilize something that hot.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,426 Posts
I usually use a spray mist detailer to clean the car. After being in a heavy rain storm and several hundred road miles on the way home, it was very dirty. Since there was no problem being in the rain storms during our trip, I'm thinking moisture on a hot engine is not a problem. Next time I'll run it around the block prior to hosing it down. The engine was cold for both washes.

Also be careful looking for the reader plug. Once when I reached under the dash I touched one of the foot well lights and burnt the tip of my finger. I do not understand why they would utilize something that hot.
I did that day one as well - it was so hot I thought I had shocked myself not burned my finger. My bulbs are being replaced with LED's just like my dome light was to avoid the heat and lessen the drain on the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Ron, wash it running and hope it doesn't lock on you :)

as for the engine code, had something similar from a loose connector last year in the engine bay. I always wash the dirt and sand off first, nothing like trying to dry wash sand off :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
loose connector?

Ron, wash it running and hope it doesn't lock on you :)

as for the engine code, had something similar from a loose connector last year in the engine bay. I always wash the dirt and sand off first, nothing like trying to dry wash sand off :rolleyes:
Can you indicate which connector/location to look for?

I agree, hosing/washing the grit off is better. Until this problem is fixed, I could probably use spray detailer on the trunk area as it does not get as dirty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
I agree, hosing/washing the grit off is better.
I initially thought this as well, and it may in fact be true. However, many people in the detailing community (there is a community for everything these days) will say that applying high pressure water to grit can actually drive some of the grit into the paint and cause micro-scratches - FWIW. Now low pressure water - I can't see a problem with that. It just won't remove much grit from the surface on its own.

It has been my experience that a good waterless wash/quick detailer and several deep-nap microfiber towels used correctly can remove substantial grit general road residue with zero damage to the clear coat. High quality QD formulas lubricate the surface quite well, and deep-nap MF prevents the grit from getting ground into the surface.

In the end I think good wet and waterless wash techniques with both provide great results. It's all personal preference. I encourage those who are skeptical but interested in saving time to give it a try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
check engine light - misfire error codes

The car has not been in the rain or washed. I wiggled some of the connectors from the suggestion the error codes are caused by a loose connector. All I could easily reach seemed solidly connected.

The next day after startup the check engine light was on again! This time the code reader indicated misfires, cylinder #1 permanent misfire. Drove it some more. Checked again, same codes, unable to clear them. Later that evening, started up again to return home, and no codes?

I was disappointed, hoping the check engine would remain so the service tech could correct the problem.

In all instances the car seems to run perfectly. The only thing I notice is a bit of rough idle when a cold start - probably normal. After that all is OK.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top