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Discussion Starter #1
My car feels like it runs great, pulls strong, just a slight stumble at low rpm. I checked the spark plugs today just to make sure they weren't fouled. #3 plug was completely blackened. I wasn't sure if it was oil or gas on the diode so I put a new plug in and drove around the block. Pulled the plug after my short trip and again, the new plug was already looking dark. I tried wiping the plug clean but it wouldn't come off (wouldn't oil come off? I'm assuming this is from a rich condition?)

Anyhow I decided to run a compression check and the #'s in the title were my results. Again, the car feels strong, doesn't overheat, and doesn't stall, so I'm curious as to what my next step should be. If I were to throw oil down the cylinders to check the rings, how much? Just a cap full?

Is there a way to re-seat the valves, that a shade tree mechanic can take care of? Say I do need new rings, is it possible for us Lotus guys to change out rings with the motor still in the car? Any guidance would be much apreciatted.
 

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Puff Daddy
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A cap full of oil is enough to do the trick.

I'd suggest the oil first, then if that doesn't reveal anything conclusive, I'd do a leak down test next.

This may be a good excuse to put a built engine in with an upgraded oil pump and valve springs. This can be done cheap (relative to other sports cars) through vendors like BOE, Sector 111, and Monkey Wrench.

Here are my choices:

Block - 1) BOE, 2) MWR
Head - 1) jim-clayton 2) DRS or MWR

If you're looking for more power and reliability the BOE/DRS combo will be hard to beat. Otherwise, MWR has a "racer express" engine that is pretty much plug and play without any upgrades.
 

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why is this a new thread? ...mods - please merge.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A cap full of oil is enough to do the trick.

I'd suggest the oil first, then if that doesn't reveal anything conclusive, I'd do a leak down test next.

This may be a good excuse to put a built engine in with an upgraded oil pump and valve springs. This can be done cheap (relative to other sports cars) through vendors like BOE, Sector 111, and Monkey Wrench.

Here are my choices:

Block - 1) BOE, 2) MWR
Head - 1) jim-clayton 2) DRS or MWR

If you're looking for more power and reliability the BOE/DRS combo will be hard to beat. Otherwise, MWR has a "racer express" engine that is pretty much plug and play without any upgrades.

Bane, thanks alot for your reply. I really do apreciatte it. Im almost tempted to pay someone to swap in a k-series :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A cap full of oil is enough to do the trick.

I'd suggest the oil first, then if that doesn't reveal anything conclusive, I'd do a leak down test next.

This may be a good excuse to put a built engine in with an upgraded oil pump and valve springs. This can be done cheap (relative to other sports cars) through vendors like BOE, Sector 111, and Monkey Wrench.

Here are my choices:

Block - 1) BOE, 2) MWR
Head - 1) jim-clayton 2) DRS or MWR

If you're looking for more power and reliability the BOE/DRS combo will be hard to beat. Otherwise, MWR has a "racer express" engine that is pretty much plug and play without any upgrades.

Went ahead and ordered the BOE/JIM-CLAYTON combination after doing a little bit of research on ferrea valves and springs. Plus I hear Nikasil and Jim's head work are second to none. Im anxious to get my car back up and running thats for sure.
 
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