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Anyone know a trick to tighten the bolts which secure the condenser to the radiator? One of these bolts is loose, and the condenser rattles endlessly, bouncing through a quarter inch of play. It's the front bolt, on the passenger side, and can be reached by removing the main grille and twisting your wrist up toward the radiator... The space is so tight in there that I can't get a wrench or pliers to hold the nut that the bolt threads into... And what's worse: the damn bolt has no grip on its head! It's totally flat, featureless. WTF...

I've burned my bridges with the motherfukkers at Star Motor Cars, so I really don't want to take the car in to have them remove the clam just to tighten this one bolt... any ideas?

The nut seems to be pretty tight - actually SEIZED - I can't remove it...so I'm not afraid of it falling out. But using my fingers to try tightening it just doesnt cut it.
 

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The stud is captive - the head will be flat as it is welded to the condensor bracket. With difficult bolt access the best way is often to sacrifice a wrench - heating it and bending it until it will fit the available access. If the nut is siezed then try soaking it with WD40.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ah, I was afraid you'd say that. yeah that seems like the only alternative to removing the clam.

thanks
 

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If the nut is siezed then try soaking it with WD40.
Forget WD-40 (and Loquid Wrench, PB Blaster and the rest). Get some Kroil (KanoLabs.comOn a scale of 1 to 10 WD-40 (and the others) are a 1 - Kroil is about a 12...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ha thats funny. yeah I was surprised he said wd40.. maybe he was trying to keep it simple for the possibly non-mechanically inclined.

well anyway. for anyone's future reference, I was able to tighten this nut using a rather thin box-end wrench. 10mm. worked only because of the 15degree or so factory built bend at the box-end.
 

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I've always liked pb blaster... I'll try kroil sometime if I see it... Tim, you sound like you're selling the stuff :bow:
 

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I've always liked pb blaster... I'll try kroil sometime if I see it... Tim, you sound like you're selling the stuff :bow:
I've never seen Kroil in any store, although I have heard that some "old time" auto parts stores stock it. I got mine from KanoLabs.com.

And no, I don't sell it, and have no financial interests. I just heard about the stuff for many years (while rebuilding/restoring my Elan and other cars) and never quite believed the recommendations. Then I finally bought some, and wanted to kick myself for all those years of not getting the stuff. I became a true believer in Kroil. :bow:
 

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kroil very good, freeall better yet

Second Tim's suggestion of Kroil, we used it for years in our shops. However, for about three years now we have used Freeall (frealloil.com) and it seems empirically to be even better.
 

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Forget WD-40 (and Loquid Wrench, PB Blaster and the rest). Get some Kroil (KanoLabs.comOn a scale of 1 to 10 WD-40 (and the others) are a 1 - Kroil is about a 12...
+1 :up:

You also can put KROIL into your gun barrel to put them into storage. It protects the metal from rust!

I learned that from a Gunsmith at Barrett Rifles he had examined the metal in a scope after some time.
Freeall ? Should check it out!
 

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I need some tips on how to remove the condenser without damaging it. I cant seem to get it off, the bolts seem seized for me as well. Anyone know a way to get the part off??
 

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Resurrecting this thread as I am stuck at the same point while removing my radiator.

I have the front clam off. I am reaching up in to the radiator opening and have a flex-head wrench. The nut seems to be seized. I have let it soak in Kroil for 24hrs. I can barely get my hand in there so heat is not an option.

Can I get out the dremel and cutting wheel and cut off the captive stud and frozen nut? Can I then somehow drill it out and replace the stud and nut with something that doesn't corrode? I'm beyond my comfort zone and want a second or third opinion before I start grinding it off.
 
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