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I've made my own kit to make it what I believe safer that the original kit. For example, the new plates I made have welded nuts instead of the pressed nuts.



Also, I'm using proper grade bolts instead of stainless steel ones. They are of the correct length and a single person can install the kit.

Stainless steel bolts are soft compared to hardened steel. These are the proper grade bolts, the same used by Lotus engineer. On top you can see the bolts that I'm using.



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I've made a few plates and a friend of mine and I are using them now.
 

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Why has sector 111 not chimed in on this? I have that setup for my car, yet to be installed. A bit nervous about it now. Might just mail it back to them!
 

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Scheisse! Good thing I found this post before I installed everything. I've installed Schroth harnesses before going by the NASA guidelines and Schroth's recommendations and these points are spot on. I'll be making a trip to the hardware store before the install now.
 

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speced out on Titanium bolts nuts and washers

M8-1.25 Pitch Hex Lock Nut, 1/2 Height
$35.92

M8-1.25 X 60mm, Ultra-Light Hex-Flange Bolt
$23.98

M8-1.25 X 70mm, Ultra-Light Hex-Flange Bolt
$25.98

M8-1.25 X 35mm Taper-Head Socket Screw
$15.98

M8-1.25 X 40mm Taper-Head Socket Screw
$15.98

Total:
$117.84

$117!!! and that's not including Ti washers (5 week lead time) and will make just one set....
 

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I recently replaced the hardware in my sys.6.pack due to concerns about the quality of the hardware. I was unable to find any stainless button head screws with a rating better than 18-8 which worried me quite a bit about my safety. Also, no markings on a bolt is never a good sign.

I ordered new hardware from McMaster-Carr to replacement the questionable SS hardware. Here's what I used:

All around:
M8 class 10 nylock nuts
M8 high strength washers (for use with 10.9 class hardware)
The original S111 large washers and spreader plates

Driver's side front:
2x M8 70mm 10.9 hex head cap screws, partially threaded, zinc plated

Driver's side inboard rear:
1x M8 40mm 12.9 socket head cap screw, zinc coated

Driver's side outboard rear:
1x M8 35mm 12.9 socket head cap screw, zinc coated

Passenger's side front:
2x M8 60mm 10.9 hex head cap screws, partially threaded, zinc plated

Passenger's side inboard rear:
1x M8 40mm 12.9 socket head cap screw, zinc coated

Passenger's side outboard rear:
1x M8 35mm 12.9 socket head cap screw, zinc coated

The rear bolts now thread in from the top, making it *much* easier to install the hardware (especially when one corner is being difficult to get in). I was able to replace all of the hardware without an assistant, which was definitely not possible with the original hardware (due to risk of stripping the button head screws and trying to keep the nuts from turning).

The only downside is the underside of the car is slightly less appealing than with the button head screws. However, the hardware is sized correctly so that only minimal threads are exposed beyond the nuts (2-3 threads, the preferred amount) and the hex head bolts in the front look just fine.

The hardware will run about $50 from McMaster due to minimum amounts you have to order. It'll make 5 sets.

I have 3 extra sets of this hardware if anyone wants to buy it instead of having a lot of extras for themselves. $15 shipped per set, send me a PM.
"Black finish screws have a class 6g thread fit, a minimum Rockwell hardness of C32, and minimum tensile strength of 150,000 psi.

High-visibility blue screws have a class 6g thread fit, a minimum Rockwell hardness of C33, and minimum tensile strength of 150,800 psi.

Zinc yellow-chromate plating screws have a Class 6h thread fit and minimum tensile strength of 150,000 psi." McMaster-Carr


what would be the best option? black, blue or yellow chromate?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
If you like rust, get the black or the blue. If you want some rust protection, get the ones with a layer of zinc on them.
 

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If you like rust, get the black or the blue. If you want some rust protection, get the ones with a layer of zinc on them.
:) I don't like rust...I thought the coating was more so there was no reaction between the steel and aluminium of the chassis or is that only SS and ally?

$28 v $118 feels like it'll go under the current Mrs Carrolls radar easier too :evil:
 

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:) I don't like rust...I thought the coating was more so there was no reaction between the steel and aluminium of the chassis or is that only SS and ally?

$28 v $118 feels like it'll go under the current Mrs Carrolls radar easier too :evil:
Steel and Aluminum are close enough in nobility on the galvanic series that they don't react badly. The Zinc is there to prevent the non-stainless steel from being exposed to air and rusting away rapidly, not to protect the Aluminum. Zinc is also below Aluminum on the galvanic series, which means the Zinc will corrode away rather than the Aluminum. As bolts are replaceable that's for the better in this application as well.
 

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You're on point with all that information. My 2 cents is that for the 'mount to the seat' option to be safe, you need to mount the seat in a fixed fashion rather than a slider.

I'm unaware of any fixed seat mount that allows you to mount the stock belts and the harness lap belts to the same place. If I knew where to get some of those, I'd definitely consider going that route.
After being very unimpressed with the poor design and lack of information or support from Tillett I've modified the rails for the B6F to allow the seat to come forward to drivable position and also accommodate my Willans harness that utilise the OEM mounts on OEM seat. I believe this is critical as it gets correct lap belt angle.

M8 12.9 bolts through a spacer with 14.6mm shaft and 20mm 'cap' to allow mounting.

Best way to go it in my case as using 211 locations puts belts at bad angle.

Other notes: thanks to OP I have installed Sys.6.pack with 12.9 hardware.

I have a major problem now - can't shift to 5th or 6th due to Tillett's poor design meaning shifter hits seat. Bare minimum they should warn on this.
 

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Steel and Aluminum are close enough in nobility on the galvanic series that they don't react badly. The Zinc is there to prevent the non-stainless steel from being exposed to air and rusting away rapidly, not to protect the Aluminum. Zinc is also below Aluminum on the galvanic series, which means the Zinc will corrode away rather than the Aluminum. As bolts are replaceable that's for the better in this application as well.
Happy to PayPal you some funds if you get an extra kits worth ...
 
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