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Discussion Starter #1
I committed the cardinal sin last weekend and ran off track in the first session of a track day. I bent a wheel and my left rear control arms. Blush :(

While working on replacing the rear left arms, I noticed a slight bend in the rear right lower arm as well. That side did not take an impact. I am wondering if it was the result of a previous excursion.

Does anyone have an idea how much of a bend the alignment can tolerate?

I plan to replace all of them but I'd rather wait for next winter or later if I can get my alignment right for the moment.

Thanks!
 

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2007 Lotus Exige S
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I committed the cardinal sin last weekend and ran off track in the first session of a track day. I bent a wheel and my left rear control arms. Blush :(

While working on replacing the rear left arms, I noticed a slight bend in the rear right lower arm as well. That side did not take an impact. I am wondering if it was the result of a previous excursion.

Does anyone have an idea how much of a bend the alignment can tolerate?

I plan to replace all of them but I'd rather wait for next winter or later if I can get my alignment right for the moment.

Thanks!
I'm not sure how much of a bend is acceptable. Do you have a picture? Safety aside, it might be cheaper to order all at once to save on shipping.
 

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The rear alighment especialy can take up a TON of bend in the control arms.

Also how bad are the control arms? I think they are so thin they probably always end up with some bend after track use and might not worry about it that much.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here is a photo. I think you must be right @kfennell (there is less shim on that side so was likely like that last time I aligned it (one week ago :( ). Replacing the a-arm on that side is a PITA because I don't have clearance for the bolt (gpan in the way) so I have to release motor mounts, etc.
 

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I'd absolutely toss it; these hollow tubes buckle very easily, which is good for saving the chassis. The downside is that buckling can happen much, much earlier on a bent part than a straight one. If you've never tried it, you can actually stand on an empty aluminum can if the walls are straight. The slightest dent though and it will not support hardly any load.
 

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I think the first pic is pretty typical.

To remove the control arm with a gpan in the way just cut off the old bolt with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel and tap the new one into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think the first pic is pretty typical.

To remove the control arm with a gpan in the way just cut off the old bolt with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel and tap the new one into place.
Many thanks for the perspective on the first pic. You confirm my suspicion.

Hah, I like the idea r.e. the bolt versus gpan. :) .
 

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I've got a gpan 1 and didn't have to cut any bolts, or release any motor mounts, to remove the passenger lower a-arm. I found it much easier to use a little screw jack to move the engine over a couple mm
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've got a gpan 1 and didn't have to cut any bolts, or release any motor mounts, to remove the passenger lower a-arm. I found it much easier to use a little screw jack to move the engine over a couple mm
I'll give jacking it a bit a try. Thanks!

Ultimately I want to get that gpan 1.0 off and use the BOE gasket so I can drop the oil pan regularly. Only problem is that I did too good a job of glueing the sucker on there with Toyota Seal in 2009/2010.

I am dreaming of tapping out the stupid dipstick entry-point and replacing the tube with a Lokar universal.
 
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