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Discussion Starter #1
I am finally nearing the end of an engine build and I need some help on rerouting the coolant hoses on the throttle body side of the engine. I honestly have no desire to follow the OEM setup because that is a rat's nest of hoses.

What I am really fishing for here is a way to reduce the amount of hosing I need and still have coolant go in the proper location. I have done the research and I know it has been done, but I have not seen any photos or diagrams on how others have done it.

Can anyone help me out on this? I need to rid myself of hosing so that I can get my intake pipe work to the throttle body from the turbo in the shortest possible way.

I am already ridding myself of the coolant u-tube...but how can I reduce the number of hoses right there?

Thanks
 

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I am looking to do some engine bay clean up too. Also curious if anyone has removed the coolant pump or moved it elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Doing more of my own research here is an image I found from DDS tuning...I need to try to get a hold of an LTer on here, I think he may have more insight for us...but here is that info I have found so far.

Can't tell if the PDF loaded or not...let me know if you need a copy of it.
 

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Are you going to run a heater?

Mine has this done: No pics now just a list

1. Cut the hardline that runs around the engine after the U bend port. Run your heater hose that used to go around the engine to the pump to here.
2 Take the other heater hose that used to run to the far end of the hard line and put it to the pump, effectively reversing the circuit.
3. Plug the port on the engine side where the u bend was
4. Plug the ports where they used to go to the throttle body, you don't need TB cooling.
5. Shorten everything else as you put it together.

I didn't do mine all at once so I can't say an exact weight that I saved, but man there was a lot of hose laying on the ground after!
 

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I'm looking at doing similar this winter since I already have the clam off. Removing the TB hoses seems to be the lowest hanging fruit.

I already have a heater core bypass up front, but I am sure there is a way you could hook one up on the rear where you have much more room. It'll undo some of the cleanliness, but it is absolutely worth it in the summertime.

I've also been looking at running the hose with the bleeder port behind the expansion tank rather than between the tank and the engine. Looks like it'll reach and decrease the amount of hoses in the rat's nest by one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are you going to run a heater?

Mine has this done: No pics now just a list

1. Cut the hardline that runs around the engine after the U bend port. Run your heater hose that used to go around the engine to the pump to here.
2 Take the other heater hose that used to run to the far end of the hard line and put it to the pump, effectively reversing the circuit.
3. Plug the port on the engine side where the u bend was
4. Plug the ports where they used to go to the throttle body, you don't need TB cooling.
5. Shorten everything else as you put it together.

I didn't do mine all at once so I can't say an exact weight that I saved, but man there was a lot of hose laying on the ground after!
Hey Kevin,

I do want to keep the heater, just because it gets chilly up here in the NW early spring and late fall. Debating on TB still as it doubles as a heater and cooler, so not sure. A pic would be a thousand words right now as well...if you are able to take pic a. Above the engine bay pic with arrows, that would be amazingly helpful. :)
 

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4. Plug the ports where they used to go to the throttle body, you don't need TB cooling.
Just FYI, the purpose is heating, not cooling. At low throttle angles and cold, humid air the temperature can drop behind the throttle blade to the point that the moisture in the air can freeze and prevent the throttle from closing. Electronic throttles can now have "ice breaking mode" that allows them to slam shut and break up the ice, but cable throttles need the water heat to stave off freezing. Judging by how are throttle and intake tract are positioned so closely in the engine bay, I don't think this is a real risk so I am comfortable with not having the heated TB. Just want anyone who does this to be aware of what's going on though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wanted to bump this to hopefully get some better photos from forum members, also because I just wanted to mention that I did the "ultimate" coolant u tube fix, for the stupid aluminium tube that rubs on our oil cooler lines. I cut one of the main tubes to fit, and just did a direct plug and play. So I no longer have a need for that stupid aluminium u that hung at the bottom of two hose lines. Photos to come.
 

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OK so 1. Cut off the hard line (i brazed in a nipple), and cap the first nipple right after the water pump. Cut it before the end of the head and run a line from there to the coolant reservoir.




The left 2 nipples in this pic are different, one used to have a T that went to the TB I think and the reservoir. Now one goes right to the reservoir and one that was the TB return is capped.



In this pic the hose that used to run to the end of the hardline is cut short and now runs to the electric pump. This does result in the coolant flowing backwards through the front heat exchanger, but I suspect that doesn't matter much.

Not shown is the other heater hose, that used to run from the hardline across the engine bat to the water pump. It now runs to the hardline where the U bend used to be. The other end of the U bend is capped as in the above picture.



I have run ~15 hours on the track since I did this, no coolant temp problems.
 
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