The Lotus Cars Community banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
When in gear, if i press the gas, my car revs up and hesitates and then finally the power is applied to the wheels.

It started doing this 3 weeks ago in 2nd gear only, then i drove it last week and it did it at first but after driving it around for 30 minutes, it went away entirely.

Last night; however, I drove it to and from a restaurant a bit further away and it was hesitating in all gears, even on a bridge at higher speeds.

If I downshift, it wont hesitate, it will get that power right away; however, if I'm cruising in, let's say 3rd gear, and i press the gas for more power in that same gear, the engine will rev up and hesitate and then finally apply the power after delay.

The clutch pedal feels normal and gear shifter feels normal, as well. I'm not throwing any codes on CEL. The car does not have any weird shakes, rattles or clunky anything when driving.

I replaced my clutch just under 5,000 miles ago (Feb 2018) with an upgraded clutch: MWR Heavy-Duty Street Disc Clutch with ARP Bolts and MWR Lightened Aluminum Flywheel. This car has never been raced or tracked. It mostly sits in the garage. I rarely drive anywhere i can even get enough space to go wide open throttle (Miami traffic)

What do you think is going on? Sounds like a new clutch is needed (wild), but I'm hoping for alternative solutions that i am missing.
 

·
Happy To Be Here
2013 Lotus Evora IPS - Carbon Gray
Joined
·
896 Posts
Since this is likely to be brought up, I recommend bleeding your brake fluid. Make sure that’s fresh and see if that changes anything in the clutch. Also, someone is bound to ask if you’ve added heat shielding to the clutch lines to keep the fluid from boiling. I’d start there before going straight to hardware.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Since this is likely to be brought up, I recommend bleeding your brake fluid.
Brake fluid? What's the correlation I'm missing?

Also, someone is bound to ask if you’ve added heat shielding to the clutch lines to keep the fluid from boiling.
Definitely didn't add anything like that I'm aware of and I'm certain the dealer didn't do that for free and not tell me. Where does one buy heat shielding like this? Are there upgraded clutch lines i should have bought?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,989 Posts
When you replaced your clutch did you flush your brakes and clutch lines and MC? What fluid did you use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When you replaced your clutch did you flush your brakes and clutch lines and MC? What fluid did you use?
My dealer in Orlando did the work and they are impeccable, especially the technician that worked on my car. If its part of the procedure, they did it.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,989 Posts
Why does everyone keep mentioning flushing the brakes?
Brakes and clutch share MC. Should have flushed and bled at time of clutch replacement and go to a good 5.1 like RBF600 or better.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Carlotus

·
Happy To Be Here
2013 Lotus Evora IPS - Carbon Gray
Joined
·
896 Posts
My understanding is that manual cars use the same fluid circuit for the clutch as they do for the brakes. If you cook your brake fluid, your clutch fluid is damaged as well. It’s good practice to flush the system once a year or every other, depending on usage. What fluid you use can determine how long you can go between flushes.

With relation to the heat shielding that I mentioned, Lotus put out a TSB about adding shielding in the engine bay to keep the clutch lines protected from the heat. Usually, this relates to finding your car with the clutch pedal on the floor after a long drive. But adding the shielding to early cars isn’t a bad idea if you have that issue or not. I’m sure someone will post the TSB.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,789 Posts
Why does everyone keep mentioning flushing the brakes?
Brakes and clutch share MC. Should have flushed and bled at time of clutch replacement and go to a good 5.1 like RBF600 or better.
Slight correction. The clutch and brake cylinder share the same fluid reservoir. Their cylinders are separate.

Since the clutch replacement job was likely an engine-out affair, there's a good likelihood they disconnected the clutch slave cylinder, which would have left the hydraulic system open, so they should have also flushed and bled the clutch system and the brake system. But there's always the possibility that they didn't, so that's probably why most recommendations are to do that first, since it's the easiest, and by far the cheapest. Air in the clutch hydraulic system could cause sponginess in the pedal, or inconsistent travel/throw of the slave cylinder piston, which could account for the slippage you're experiencing.

If flushing the entire hydraulic system doesn't resolve it, I would look to the clutch master cylinder. If that's the original Lotus part, whether metal or plastic, there's a possibility the internal seal is failing, which could also be the cause of the slippage. The typical fix for that is to replace it with an aftermarket master cylinder. Both Wilwood and Tilton make ones for the Evora.
 

·
Maniacal Motorist
Joined
·
167 Posts
Has anyone had the symptom of pressure being held in the clutch line from the bad MC? Usually, it's lack of clutch disengagement, not engagement. Can those clutch "snubbers" that prevent standing clutch-drops go bad and slow the fluid flow?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,789 Posts
Has anyone had the symptom of pressure being held in the clutch line from the bad MC? Usually, it's lack of clutch disengagement, not engagement. Can those clutch "snubbers" that prevent standing clutch-drops go bad and slow the fluid flow?
I know I've seen past posts with individuals having both soft pedals (falls to the floor), and at least once instance where the pedal was extremely stiff and unable to be pushed down (most likely some sort of hydraulic lock). Both cases seem to indicate fault at the master cylinder. Likely the internal seals fail, and either fluid gets trapped on the wrong side of the plunger, or disintegrated seal particles clog the whole line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Since this is likely to be brought up, I recommend bleeding your brake fluid. Make sure that’s fresh and see if that changes anything in the clutch. Also, someone is bound to ask if you’ve added heat shielding to the clutch lines to keep the fluid from boiling. I’d start there before going straight to hardware.

Where do i check my brake fluid and clutch fluid?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I looked in the how-to section, but I'm not seeing the quantity of quarts of 5.1 fluid i should buy?
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top