The Lotus Cars Community banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As seen in Jack's car...
http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=948662&postcount=93

Don't bother - it's a clam off affair.

The rear clam is backed by a foiled material that's riveted to it. While the section of the trunk floor is raised to allow for the stock bracket, the backing doesn't follow the contour of the trunk floor. In order to install it with the clam in place, it would have to bolt through the foiled material, deforming it. In addition, this would only work if there are enough shims between the trunk floor and the subframe to allow a nut to be sandwiched between the foil material and the subframe.

The only way to do it properly would be to remove the foiled material from the clam and rivet nut plates in place.

I'm willing to bet that's how the Cup is installed, but haven't been able to confirm. If a Cup owner would be willing to check it would be appreciated: just open the rear and reach through the engine compartment, along the transom, next to the washer tank. You should be able to curl your fingers around the bottom of the trunk next to the subframe's crossbrace. There will be a connector there for the aft O2 sensor and I'm willing to bet you will only feel the foiled material (no bolt coming through, no nut, etc.).

The transom is one possibility, (picking up the lower bolts on the battery holder), but the lower washer tank bolt would have to be addressed (see photo, not template against transom). It will fit between more centered next to the relief for the exhaust (although I didn't check to see if the cables would reach). Trouble there would be eating up space in the opening that's needed to be able to place things in the trunk (the Exige opening is smaller).

Ah well... now to work out something better.
:rolleyes:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I wondered about that when I saw that pic...

So far I'm very satisfied with the Braille... no drilling, cutting, clam removal, etc. and no problems :D
I'm trying to come up with another reason to remove the rear clam... can't see doing it for a battery install.
:wallbang:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,930 Posts
I have the same bracket. I'm going to use "nutserts". Installed from the top side.

6 fasteners/nutserts will hold the battery no problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I have the same bracket. I'm going to use "nutserts". Installed from the top side.

6 fasteners/nutserts will hold the battery no problem.
That's the only other thing Lotus could have done, and from the looks of Jack's car, they're using M6 - either nut plates or nutserts. Nutserts makes more sense as I can't see them supplying the part for all cars and then requiring the rear clam to be disassembled. In addition, that would account for the bracket not being raised due to the rivets on the nut plates.

btw - You're going to need a right angle adapter to get to that spot to drill it.
;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I have done this from inside the car, using Aluminum 6mm Nutserts from Fastenal (p/n 0125663) and the homemade tool shown. It was very easy and has been in the car for a year. You can also buy the bracket very cheaply from an EBay vendor.

This solution is far more secure than OEM un-vented wet battery.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I have done this from inside the car, using Aluminum 6mm Nutserts from Fastenal (p/n 0125663) and the homemade tool shown. It was very easy and has been in the car for a year. You can also buy the bracket very cheaply from an EBay vendor.

This solution is far more secure than OEM un-vented wet battery.
Awesome - thanks for the pics & p/n, MichaelB!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,294 Posts
cody,
just read your 1st post and was heart broken. I had been waiting for your progress report on the bracket install.

But all's good. MichaelB has just saved the day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
cody,
just read your 1st post and was heart broken. I had been waiting for your progress report on the bracket install.

But all's good. MichaelB has just saved the day.
Yup... as much as I despise nutserts, it looks like that's the route I'll go as well.
Now I've got some spare stainless hardware laying around though.
:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
I have done this from inside the car, using Aluminum 6mm Nutserts from Fastenal (p/n 0125663) and the homemade tool shown. It was very easy and has been in the car for a year. You can also buy the bracket very cheaply from an EBay vendor.

This solution is far more secure than OEM un-vented wet battery.
This looks like an excellent solution, but excuse my ignorance. How do nutserts work? Is it like a drywall anchor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
This looks like an excellent solution, but excuse my ignorance. How do nutserts work? Is it like a drywall anchor?
More like a rivet - the blind side expands and binds it in place. In layman's terms, you "try to pull the back side through the front" side when installing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Instructions:
1. Remove all OEM battery, cables, and all hold-down hardware.
2. Obtain 6mm hex cap screw, a nut, and at least 1 washer, see picture above.
3. Drill at least 4 holes using the bracket as a guide. The hole diameter should provide a tight press-fit for of the insert to engage the splines. For placement, push the bracket against the fender well, but allow enough bulkhead clearance to drill the bulkhead side holes using a right-angle drill.
4 Place the nut, and washers on the screw, lubricate threads and washer with a little grease. Thread the screw into the flange side of the insert until the threads are flush with the end.
5. Place the threaded assembly into one of the previously drilled holes and gently push down until the flange meets the floor.
6. Important: The insert must not be allowed to rotate. Hold the screw stationary with the hex wrench and tighten the nut with a box-end wrench until the insert is fully expanded. You will feel the torque increase, continue until you feel the insert is fully expanded. We are dealing with aluminum here, so don't go crazy. Remove the expansion tool. Practice first on a spare piece of Masonite if you are unsure.
7. Place the battery and holder in-place, use neoprene if you need to fill the volume (I used tool drawer liner material), now tighten the mounting screws. Think aluminum threads and fiberglass. I use Phillip head screws and hand tightened.
8. Replace cables, be careful! I found a smaller boot for the positive cable at West Marine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Man, talk about your "fettling."
:eek:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Great thread guys!

Well, I was really excited about this install method after my factory battery finally gave up over the winter. Decided to go with the Odyssey PC925 and bracket as a replacement. I ordered the fasteners from fastenall, waited a couple of weeks for them to arrive and got down to business yesterday after "pigging" out.

I had a terrible time with the fasteners. I didnt like them at all. I think it was because they were aluminum, so soft. During the expansion, right from the start, with every turn it got progressively easier to expand. I felt no build up in force. I was being quite careful not to over expand them, but couldnt get a good feel for the proper torque. (they tended to collapse inwards instead of out) I ended up mangling a few before I got what I thought was a good install. Then, as a test, I put the battery bracket on and bolted it down, pulled up rather lightly, and POP! The nutsert came right out and mangled the hole in the clam in the process. GRRRR! :mad: I'm not a brute. We're talking about LIGHT pressure. That was unsat.

I would not feel confident driving around like that. I wanted to make use of the stock nutplates, but in a better manner than stock, so I scrapped the nutsert idea for the battery in favor of a setup like tmr's. http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f129/odyssey-pc925-installation-64490/

I still plan on using the nutserts for my stealthbox amp relocation, unless I can figure out another solution between now and then. I am sad that I had such uninspiring results. Glad it worked for you guys though. I'll post pics when I'm finished.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top