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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About to tackle this job. Picked up a set of Tuff boots and the Redline grease from BOE. A couple of really helpful threads on this.

Any other tips or special tools recommended?

Issue was inner joint passenger side, seems like a common heat-related failure. Should I bother with the outer? And driver side? I picked up all the boots... But if the single joint gives me too much of a headache, I might just call it at that.

I have an oetiker crimping tool that I've used on PEX piping (plumbing)...will that suffice?

Not really looking forward to this.

1289868
 

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I think I posted some of my experiences (will go check), but a short note here. I've rebuilt two sets so far.

This inner-passenger is vulnerable to the heat from the exhaust header (with or without heat shields in place). It also appears to be the most fragile. Once you get this boiled-grease squirting out, there is no way back. I guess you will find galling in there that is now internally generating much of the heat.

I put a strip of gold-foil tape on the body of the joint as a routine.

Luckily it is the easiest of the joints to service if it is not galled (but I think you are too late). In general, the whole joint needs to be dismantled, cleaned with a proper degreaser, and reassembled (I do not think there is a practical way to replace the grease with the cage in place). There is a simple snap-ring keeping the thing together (PM me if you would like to talk through it). I like to keep track of the exact orientations of balls and cages.

That grease is uber-nasty and does not want to dissolve with anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That grease is uber-nasty and does not want to dissolve with anything.
I noticed that as I was wiping down the under tray. Hit it with all the degreasers I had, but it wouldn't break down. I suppose that's why they use it.

Thanks. I'll begin the work and see how things go. I'll pm you if I hit a snag.
 

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quick thoughts:

I did not have galling when I took mine apart, and I only repacked the passenger inner. I did end up having to do it twice though, as the first time I did it, I had some seepage again and redid the job.

If you have a gear puller you might need it to push the axle out of the hub. You could just bang on it but not recommended.

I tried to minimize the amount of air in the boot. I do not mean overfilling the joint, but rather compressing the boot to get as much air as possible out, without any deformation of the "accordian" structure of the boot.

I also kept track of everything when putting it back together - I kept track of each bearing ball and put it back in the same position on the cage.

I believe i chose not to use the oetiker clamps that came with the kit and instead used bands that had no overlap

I did not put a heat shield up, but not a bad idea to do it.
 

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These are the threads I'd check out (in case you did not find both):


CV Boot leaking

Here are the clamps I use (with the tools that is my thumbnail picture - yes, it was that traumatic):

inner CV joint boot oetiker narrow 95mm and 35mm (from Global Metrics)
outer CV joint boot 96mm and 40mm

We should ask these folks to make us some maybe? http://insaneshafts.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
quick thoughts:

If you have a gear puller you might need it to push the axle out of the hub. You could just bang on it but not recommended.
I was watching this guy's video. I do like his video series. At the 7 minute mark he explains how he removed the axle by bolting on a clamp and bumping against that.

 

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I think jds was referring to separating the hub from the outboard end of the driveshaft? If you have issues with that and no tool, i'd be glad to lend you mine. OTC 7208A. worked well for me when I refreshed my suspension. Would work even better with socket head cap screws (not much clearance for the hex head bolts it came up) but I haven't picked those up yet as the cheapest I can find is $10 and that seems too dear.

I like that guy too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think jds was referring to separating the hub from the outboard end of the driveshaft? If you have issues with that and no tool, i'd be glad to lend you mine. OTC 7208A. worked well for me when I refreshed my suspension. Would work even better with socket head cap screws (not much clearance for the hex head bolts it came up) but I haven't picked those up yet as the cheapest I can find is $10 and that seems too dear.

I like that guy too!
Kevin, thank you. I might take you up on that tool. I'm planning to take a crack at it Friday afternoon and Saturday. Hoping all goes well. We'll see.

I actually thought he was referring to separating the driveshaft from out of the diff. But I was half asleep last night when I was watching. So I'll have to rewatch. There's also a time lapse video online of some guy doing the CV boot repair on this mr2 spyder. Essentially the same thing.
 

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About to tackle this job. Picked up a set of Tuff boots and the Redline grease from BOE. A couple of really helpful threads on this.

Any other tips or special tools recommended?

Issue was inner joint passenger side, seems like a common heat-related failure. Should I bother with the outer? And driver side? I picked up all the boots... But if the single joint gives me too much of a headache, I might just call it at that.

I have an oetiker crimping tool that I've used on PEX piping (plumbing)...will that suffice?

Not really looking forward to this.

View attachment 1289868
 

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At how many miles should one start checking for a CV boot failure? Is it common to all years? Is it easy to check at a PPI?
 

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The British chap was talking abut the differential end. There are three or four warnings in the service manual about not pulling on the actual CV joint as that can damage it. Hence the clamp. You have to do both ends, right?
 

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I also have a deep six-point socket for the castle nut on the driveshaft end and a torque wrench that will do the 162 ft lbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
At how many miles should one start checking for a CV boot failure? Is it common to all years? Is it easy to check at a PPI?
It seems more common modified track cars. It seems like the heat from the exhaust components/header will liquify the grease... The clamp or joint will expand a bit and the grease will spray out everywhere.

It would be obvious in a PPI. It's probably not much of a concern for most cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I also have a deep six-point socket for the castle nut on the driveshaft end and a torque wrench that will do the 162 ft lbs
I have the torque wrench... But haven't checked the size of the nut to see if in have it or not.
 

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Would having your headers be coated by the Swaintech people tend to avoid the grease boiling issue?
 

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Would having your headers be coated by the Swaintech people tend to avoid the grease boiling issue?
It will defiantly help! I was amazed how well it works on mine and was able to delete all the heat shields except for those on the clam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Would having your headers be coated by the Swaintech people tend to avoid the grease boiling issue?
I have mine ceramic coated, but not Swaintech. This didn't happen to me N/A... But the supercharger seems to have added a decent amount of heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Passenger side came out nice and easy and I'm currently in the process of disassembly and cleaning. Ran out of time yesterday. I have the the positions marked up and have the ball bearings in order of how they came out. Not sure how important that is...but can't hurt.

Driver side is a little bit of a pain in butt. I saw all the different methods of removal. I see some markings on the side of the transmission case where someone used a pry bar earlier...and I've also seen a cracked transmission case because of the pry bar method...so it's not really something I want to go too hard with. Also I just don't have a ton of space under the car.

I was thinking of going through the diff on the passenger side and setting a rod or something against the driver side axle and tapping it with a hammer. Tell me if that's crazy. I'm also thinking of just going to autozone and seeing if they have the proper slide hammer for rent.
 
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