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Discussion Starter #1
I was hit and run at an intersection last night. Anyway, I've declined to file a police report at this time since I believe I can repair the damage myself.

Right now I'm looking at a crack about 1 foot long and a millimeter deep, my thoughts were to sand down the surrounding area, then use a compound to even out the area, then prime - paint - clear coat until the color matches, and finally wet sand down the area.

Does this sound like the process you guys would take, and does anyone have experience in this area (or an airbrush in the Houston area :D) / misc sage advice?
 

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Actually crack fixes are more complex. Grind through the crack with a slotting wheel. Place woven fiberglass on the back side, while putting a small U bend into the crack. Fill in the crack with unwoven MAT style fiberglass. Sand and shape, use minimal putty to take out the minor irregularities. Air brush fixes are tough to get a match in the "lay" of the metal flake, which is why most people use a larger gun and do the entire panel (or the entire car). Spot painting tends to sun age different than the rest of the car, and is more apparent after a couple of years.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry today is a slow thinking day for me, what does "lay" of the metal flake mean?

I have flat saffron yellow / nonmetallic paint if that helps any. /cross my fingers

Anyone have suggestions on a paint gun? I think I might just splurge so two years from now when I want a puke green car I can do it.
 

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The flakes in a metallic paint are suspended in the solution and may 'lay down' differently in a touchup like that, making for a different metallic appearance. For example if you dollop on a big blob of metallic touch up paint, the flakes may actually settle to the bottom.

If your paint is flat yellow it sounds like someone has already repainted the car? I personally don't see a reason not to DIY the prep and fiberglass work - it's reasonably straightforward to work with - although I agree with addertooth that it's important to solidify the repair from behind. But past that, I would try to source out the painting step and have someone at minimum blend it in.
 

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Please get a written estimate from a body shop so you can have a clue what you're up against first. Pretty please, with sugar on top.
 

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And get the police report as well. It has nothing to do about who is going to fix the car, and you are burning a bridge if you don't get one!
 

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you want the orange stuff with the organicphospho goodies due to the aluminum in contact with the coolant system
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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yup - you want the "international" stuff. Global.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok next issue, finding a good body shop in the Houston area. I asked my mechanic and he can't recommend a single one in the area that does a good job. Hustonians report in, where have you had good results from?

Additional info, I looked at the crack in more depth and the position is such that I can't grind through the crack with a slotted wheel without removing the entire rear clam. Perhaps that was a given, but that also means the body shop will have to know Elises front and back.
 

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Even if the body shop hasn't specifically worked on an Elise, most have plenty of experience with composites and you can always provide them with a link to one of the many clam removal and repair write ups out there.
 

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Hmm, to not file a police report is really unwise, unless you were drunk at the time, and the hitter, and runner were in fact you.
 

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sent you a PM...

basically, don't take it to a body shop, rather look up fiberglass repair in your area. take the rear clam off yourself (or have LOST group help) and deliver the rear clam to the fiberglass guy. then the fiberglass guy can suggest a painter to match the colors quite accurately.

you won't know what you will get if you take the whole car in and tell the XYZ shop to "have at it". not a wise idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
No I wasn't drunk, I met with the police and decided not to file then but it's likely I'll have to file after all. I was hoping avoid an insurance bump because one SUV decided to tap me at what had to be literally 1 mph
 

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*Usually* you can get at rear impact areas for repair after removing the diffuser and the panel your car tag is mounted to. The top bolts for the tag panel is under the carpet in your trunk, the bottom of the tag panel is bolted to your diffuser and the clam behind the rear wheels. If the crack extends up to your trunk area, it may be a bit tougher to fix. Also, check with your local corvette club. They usually have a lot more experience with finding good fiberglass repair shops in your area, due to their larger group memberships.
 

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No I wasn't drunk, I met with the police and decided not to file then but it's likely I'll have to file after all. I was hoping avoid an insurance bump because one SUV decided to tap me at what had to be literally 1 mph
I believe if your insurance company decides it's not your fault, which they should in this case, they won't bump you. However if you shop for a quote later, the number of claims can affect it.

Edit: If you have tickets or multiple not at faults it can still ding you.
 

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1" crack in rear clam = $1000 min without clam removal. $1600 min if the clam has to come off. most body shops insist on removing the rear clam so a proper repair can be done from behind, repainting just the rear from seam line to seam line requires letter/decal R&R, rear star shield R&R .....all for a 1 mile per hour tap. Its crazy how fragile the body work is on these cars!
 

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Speaking of removal of decals, did lotus change the style of the decals? The OEM ones that came with my S240 have a completely different silver/dark silver color than the two Graphite/silver ones available now. Other cars I see have the same decals as I do so I know that they came that way from the factory.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
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