thanks man, I tried that and it seems that i have a faulty cluster. I'm in New Mexico which covers the cluster...but I have an 05. Shiiiiit.One thing to try is disconnect the battery, which cuts power to the cluster and reconnect the battery after a minute or two. This may reset the cluster like turning on and off your computer.
Don't know the smog regs in your state. But in Calif the cluster is covered under smog regs and is warranted for 7yrs. Good Luck!!!
3. Probably doesn't do much anyway, but the battery powers the ECU, so you've already done this step.3. Pull power from ECU, wait 10 minutes, reconnect power - where do you disconnect from the ECU? I've done the battery.
4. Disconnect connection from instrument cluster, apply contact cleaner, reconnect - is this just removing some of the dash pieces and unbolting/unscrewing the cluster and unplugging and re-plugging the connectors?
5. Pull cluster, check for cold solder joints on cluster, re-solder as needed, re-install. - What Freakin solder joints???
Thank you for this :clap::bow:3. Probably doesn't do much anyway, but the battery powers the ECU, so you've already done this step.
4. Yep. There are two connectors, a big one and a smaller one. The smaller one is probably the one causing your problem - it caries the CANbus (speed, tach, temp, shift light, fuel data) to the cluster. The other big connector includes hardwired lights (turn signals, oil, seatbelt, etc.) but also power. It's worth cleaning too as unstable power isn't good.
5. Once you get the cluster out this will make sense. Again, there are two connectors. If you remove the back of the cluster you can see how the pins from the connectors are soldered into the main circuit board for the cluster. It's probably not worth trying to remove the board itself as it requires pulling the needles and there's a lot of chance for mistakes. Just reflowing the solder from the back should be straightforward if you've done that kind of thing before.
With reference to the pics in this post ;3. Probably doesn't do much anyway, but the battery powers the ECU, so you've already done this step.
4. Yep. There are two connectors, a big one and a smaller one. The smaller one is probably the one causing your problem - it caries the CANbus (speed, tach, temp, shift light, fuel data) to the cluster. The other big connector includes hardwired lights (turn signals, oil, seatbelt, etc.) but also power. It's worth cleaning too as unstable power isn't good.
5. Once you get the cluster out this will make sense. Again, there are two connectors. If you remove the back of the cluster you can see how the pins from the connectors are soldered into the main circuit board for the cluster. It's probably not worth trying to remove the board itself as it requires pulling the needles and there's a lot of chance for mistakes. Just reflowing the solder from the back should be straightforward if you've done that kind of thing before.
Which pins do you connect the two wires to?I had the dead cluster thing.. Reflowing everything I could find that looked at all funny on the board didn't help. Hit a bump and I'd lose the cluster, another bump and it's back. In the end mine was the CAN bus connector pins. Cleaning didn't help; in the end (still this way) I removed the wires/pins from the white harness plug and stuck them directly on the pins in the connector. No problems since. Need to find new pins to crimp on the wires or something.