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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have the dash cluster issue and was wondering if anyone had a picture of the area that needed to be re-soldered if that was in fact the issue?

Is the cluster removal a difficult task?
 

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One thing to try is disconnect the battery, which cuts power to the cluster and reconnect the battery after a minute or two. This may reset the cluster like turning on and off your computer.
Don't know the smog regs in your state. But in Calif the cluster is covered under smog regs and is warranted for 7yrs. Good Luck!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One thing to try is disconnect the battery, which cuts power to the cluster and reconnect the battery after a minute or two. This may reset the cluster like turning on and off your computer.
Don't know the smog regs in your state. But in Calif the cluster is covered under smog regs and is warranted for 7yrs. Good Luck!!!
thanks man, I tried that and it seems that i have a faulty cluster. I'm in New Mexico which covers the cluster...but I have an 05. Shiiiiit.

What Exactly do you have to solder!? :huh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I pulled these from another thread:

Suggestions:
1. Perform Speedo reset procedure (quick and easy, but unlikely to fix) - did not work

2. Check fuses - all look good, cluster goes in and out at will

3. Pull power from ECU, wait 10 minutes, reconnect power - where do you disconnect from the ECU? I've done the battery.

4. Disconnect connection from instrument cluster, apply contact cleaner, reconnect - is this just removing some of the dash pieces and unbolting/unscrewing the cluster and unplugging and re-plugging the connectors?

5. Pull cluster, check for cold solder joints on cluster, re-solder as needed, re-install. - What Freakin solder joints???

6. If all the above does not fix it, replace cluster with another unit. - already have this set up
 

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3. Pull power from ECU, wait 10 minutes, reconnect power - where do you disconnect from the ECU? I've done the battery.

4. Disconnect connection from instrument cluster, apply contact cleaner, reconnect - is this just removing some of the dash pieces and unbolting/unscrewing the cluster and unplugging and re-plugging the connectors?

5. Pull cluster, check for cold solder joints on cluster, re-solder as needed, re-install. - What Freakin solder joints???
3. Probably doesn't do much anyway, but the battery powers the ECU, so you've already done this step.

4. Yep. There are two connectors, a big one and a smaller one. The smaller one is probably the one causing your problem - it caries the CANbus (speed, tach, temp, shift light, fuel data) to the cluster. The other big connector includes hardwired lights (turn signals, oil, seatbelt, etc.) but also power. It's worth cleaning too as unstable power isn't good.

5. Once you get the cluster out this will make sense. Again, there are two connectors. If you remove the back of the cluster you can see how the pins from the connectors are soldered into the main circuit board for the cluster. It's probably not worth trying to remove the board itself as it requires pulling the needles and there's a lot of chance for mistakes. Just reflowing the solder from the back should be straightforward if you've done that kind of thing before.
 

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How many Elise/Exige owners are having this problem? It's happening to mine and I seem to be hearing of more people having this issue crop up. I think pulling the cluster out and re-soldering may be the only real fix - especially if it's working intermittently like mine is. Pictures of someone performing the fix would be awesome!!
 

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Fwiw, I don't think this is a model year specific problem - as my final edition exige suffers the same problem. It seems to have mysteriously vanished for now, so I'll count my blessings until it comes back and I have to dig into the dash. As soon as that happens I'll scope it and photo the fixes, but if I'm lucky that won't be anytime soon.
 

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I have the same issue with my tach. It will work then get stuck at 3k prm. Car works fien theni reset it. Works for 1 day or two then gets stucks again then I have to reset it. Annoying as heck!
 

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3. Probably doesn't do much anyway, but the battery powers the ECU, so you've already done this step.

4. Yep. There are two connectors, a big one and a smaller one. The smaller one is probably the one causing your problem - it caries the CANbus (speed, tach, temp, shift light, fuel data) to the cluster. The other big connector includes hardwired lights (turn signals, oil, seatbelt, etc.) but also power. It's worth cleaning too as unstable power isn't good.

5. Once you get the cluster out this will make sense. Again, there are two connectors. If you remove the back of the cluster you can see how the pins from the connectors are soldered into the main circuit board for the cluster. It's probably not worth trying to remove the board itself as it requires pulling the needles and there's a lot of chance for mistakes. Just reflowing the solder from the back should be straightforward if you've done that kind of thing before.
Thank you for this :clap::bow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks everyone for verifying everything. It's really annoying that it works fine then goes out for a day then comes back! I'm really hoping the whole solder reflowing is kinda easy, and hopefully the cluster is decently easy to remove...
 

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3. Probably doesn't do much anyway, but the battery powers the ECU, so you've already done this step.

4. Yep. There are two connectors, a big one and a smaller one. The smaller one is probably the one causing your problem - it caries the CANbus (speed, tach, temp, shift light, fuel data) to the cluster. The other big connector includes hardwired lights (turn signals, oil, seatbelt, etc.) but also power. It's worth cleaning too as unstable power isn't good.

5. Once you get the cluster out this will make sense. Again, there are two connectors. If you remove the back of the cluster you can see how the pins from the connectors are soldered into the main circuit board for the cluster. It's probably not worth trying to remove the board itself as it requires pulling the needles and there's a lot of chance for mistakes. Just reflowing the solder from the back should be straightforward if you've done that kind of thing before.
With reference to the pics in this post ;
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f259/elise-gauge-cluster-modifications-210154/#post2917914
Can you elaborate on what do you mean by "Just reflowing the solder from the back should be straightforward "
Which connector and pins are you referring to re-solder ?
 

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First thing is that you seem to be having more than your share of issues Ken! I feel for you! Just be sure not to create a solder bridge when resoldering. I hope this is your last issue with the car!
 

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I had the dead cluster thing.. Reflowing everything I could find that looked at all funny on the board didn't help. Hit a bump and I'd lose the cluster, another bump and it's back. In the end mine was the CAN bus connector pins. Cleaning didn't help; in the end (still this way) I removed the wires/pins from the white harness plug and stuck them directly on the pins in the connector. No problems since. Need to find new pins to crimp on the wires or something.
 

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I had the dead cluster thing.. Reflowing everything I could find that looked at all funny on the board didn't help. Hit a bump and I'd lose the cluster, another bump and it's back. In the end mine was the CAN bus connector pins. Cleaning didn't help; in the end (still this way) I removed the wires/pins from the white harness plug and stuck them directly on the pins in the connector. No problems since. Need to find new pins to crimp on the wires or something.
Which pins do you connect the two wires to?
 
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