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I am a very experienced auto detailer and would be happy to answer any questions people might have about detailing.
 

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I've heard that the Devil is in the Details - Is it true? :evil:
 

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How do I get sun block off the dashboard and door panels? (Came off my arms!)

How do I get wax off the black plastic trim?
 

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How do I get sun block off the dashboard and door panels? (Came off my arms!)
Coach Leather Cleaner (followed by Coach Leather Conditioner) took about 1/2 a tube of sunblock off my door panels. The panels looked so good after the Coach that I had to do the rest of the leather in the car.

Dashboard plastic bits :shrug:. I bought TurtleWax Ice Interior cleaner and it did nothing.
 

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My car is a Phantom Black and scratches if I even think about the paint.

The car collects dust like you couldn't believe. I can start wiping the front of the car and by the time I get to the rear, the front is dusty again.

Washing it after every drive is out of the question. Is the following an acceptable way to keep the car clean between washings?

I use Zaino Z-6 to lightly mist one quarter at a time. I gently, and in one direction only, wipe the panel with a high quality micro towel. I turn the towel after each wipe. I use only one towel per section, which actually equates to about 8 towels.

I am trying to prevent/reduce swirl and scratch marks. I also cover the car with a lined cover after wiping it down.
 

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• Exterior Questions:

1. Opinions on Zaino - from a Pro POV would be nifty! Positive or negative...

My experience with Zaino - after years of searching, testing, switching, trying everything from Mezurna to Meguires, Carnuba to Showtime and numerous items in between (Liquid Glass, NuFinish, Adams, etc), I now use Zaino on all my vehicles. With minimum effort, I've found I get maximum results when compared with any of the aforementioned products. My car looks wet 99% of the time - even when it's FILTHY. If I break out the buffer during a serious detailing, spider webs or swirls or whatever are GONE - removal is dust free... if there is dust, I've applied too much. Folks complain about it being expensive, but my original kit lasted me 2 years, and I wash and wax my car at LEAST once a month.

2. I am looking for a less abrasive, less labor intensive washing method if it exists so I can concentrate most of my efforts on Waxing. I saw this in another thread: Autogeek Quart Foamaster Foam Gun with FREE BONUS I realize there will be some agitation required. Just wondering how a Pro does it. Currently I am using the 2 bucket method with 2 washing gloves, one for each half of the car, then a rinse for the roof and rear. It seems to me that this foam gun might cut down on the amount of water I am using, and make the washing part much easier... But your opinion is valued.

3. The Starshield - what do Pros use on the Starshield?

• Interior questions:

1. I clean my dash with water. I clean virtually my entire interior with a slightly damp cotton towel aside from the leather. What do the pros use to prevent dust from accumulating?

2. GLASS - I hate cleaning my glass but particularly on the interior. No matter what product I have used, I always wind up with some form of streaking. What do the pros use on interior glass and tinted window glass?

Looking forward to the answers sir. Thank you very much for the insight.
 

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Detailing question of the year!

We're looking for a SAFE spray and rinse solution.
Spray water hard at the wheels, brake dust will begin to fall off, quickly wash wheels with a TOWEL which is easy on the "touring" wheels, dry with another clean towel to remove excess water and brake dust accordingly. Takes 2 minutes per wheel. ;)
 

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inside of windshield:

my best solution is a DRY, clean, essentially new microfiber cloth. Whenever I start to notice cloudiness, this seems to work great. Sometimes it requires a couple of times over.
 

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On leather the worst thing you canuse is leather protectant!

Let me explain why:
The leather in the Elise (and 99% of all cars on the road) is clear coated..not like the paint on the outside..clear coated means that, basically the leather is painted and not vat dyed. To test this, take a bit of window cleaner on a towel and wipe a smal inconspicuous piece of the seat. The towel will not pic up the color of the leather...the shows that the leather is indeed clear coated , or "Painted." (If it does pic up the color ofo the leather then the leather is vat dyed. This is mainly seen on $100K+ vehicles.) Leather conditioners contain oil which breaks down this painted surface. When it does this it does make it appear softer as it is breaking down the top layer. To prevent this, treat clear coated leather like vinyl. 303 Aerospace is the best thing to use on the leather seats. Several years ago I did a test on two of my vehicles, both were identical gray leather interior VW Beetles. After 3 years, the one tha I used leather conditioner on (the Leased one) had those tiny wear craks inthe seats and the seat were noticeably(sp?) softer, while the one that I used 303 Aerospace on looked showrroom new. Matter of fact when it was sold I was asked if we had replaced the leather seats because the looked so new.
 

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Not necessarily specific to the Elise (because I doubt I would ever try this on my Elise) but anyway....

Has anyone tried any of those waterless car wash products on any of your cars ? I have my own strong reservations about the idea of cleaning a dirty car without the water, but was wondering if anyone's had any experience with this and if so how was it ?

These days, many of the western states are looking at serious water shortages, and some areas already have prohibitions on washing cars (except at car washes where the water is re-used).
 

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Simple one - what do you think of REJEX as a product, for paint/finish protection (not necessarily to add gloss or shine) where defects correction (swirl mark removal etc.) is NOT needed?

I've had exposure to it from Aviation applications in the past, and thus far - feel I've had pretty good results with it, in applying a good, regular even coating of this too now, to the entire surfaces (including glass, starshield and light/lense covers) of my baby. It is probably not "detail" concourse/show quality finish enhancing ...but for raw finish protection and overall life extension of it - what do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For removing swirls and scrathches use Perfex by Malco. Use it with a buffer. Perfex will remove all the lines in the paint. Then after you will want to use Malco Nano Care Polishing Creme applied with a buffer. The last step use Zymol Titanium applied by hand. Doing these three steps will make your paint perfect.
 
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